I have done a 302 swap into my 55 Fairlane and mounted the engine as close to the firewall as I could to get radiator clearance. I now need to connect the throttle and want to use a cable throttle. Anybody find a pedal****embly that isn't the Lokar type aluminum that looks like it belongs in a 32 ford or a rice grinder. Would like something that looks like it could be more like a stocker. A picture would be nice as well. I will attach a picture of my firewall / engine for reference. Thanks
EZ fix is to use this set up the small spoon pedal can mount on the firewall and the spoon will be behind the stock pedal so it won't be easily seen,you could paint the chrome black. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Spo...430dba1a66db8e10bb5f|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2334524
Yes, exactly what Jeff said. LOL, I thought I was the only one to be crazy enough to have two gas pedals, lol, Except I used the linkage out of the Mark VIII donor car I took my drivetrain from. It took some mods to the pedal mounting to do it, but it has worked smoothly for 40k miles now. It may be in my build thread I had here years ago, not sure if I can find it. I also replaced the cable's actual rubber pedal with a crescent-moon shaped piece I made from channel.
OK.found it on my 57Ford forum build. This link should get you to the correct page, posts172-176 will get you pics and a halfass description. Gas pedal mods for cable http://57fordsforever.com/smf/index.php?topic=3750.165
One of the perks with the spoon pedal is when you bolt down the mounting bracket you can adjust the pedal angle to where you need it.
That's a definete plus, Jeff. Not shown on the link I did, was the mods I had to weld up to get the angle correct allowing full travel. With that said, all the throttle body end hardware was correct for my engine, so I didn't have to mess with that.
I ended up using a modern style pedal that mounts to the firewall. Cant remember what car it came from. I had to bend/ re-locate the top part to match up with the cable end. Works great, just doesnt look stock.
Hey, thanks guys! Great idea to mount something under the original pedal I hadn't thought about that! I did something like that on my 59 F100 but it is still mechanical linkage not a cable. And Texas, anything that has worked smoothly for 40K miles must have been well sorted out and correctly made! I have seen new stuff from the factory not last that long.
One thing I forgot........if you checked out the pics in the link I provided, the brake and gas pedals are repops 1963 Ford Galaxie XL, and I got them at Classic Auto Parts (use to be Ford Obsolete) in OKC
I had some friends ask me why I was having issues installing a cable throttle in my car so I figured some of you might be wondering as well. The problem is the heater plenum on my 55 is a huge thing that goes from the heater box on the right side under the dash almost to the steering column on the left not leaving any room for a pedal that goes straight up. (like a Lokar) I finally found a pedal from an early GM suv (Tahoe?) that jogged off to the left enough to clear the plenum. I did ditch the original pedal, you can see in the photos there is a black plug in the hole where the stock throttle pedal linkage went through the floor. Also can see where the cable ended up coming through the firewall, guess I won't be installing a brake booster! Also I am including a picture of the front of the engine and how close it is to the radiator with the radiator in the original V8 position, Engine / water pump are from a 71 Ford Maverick. Engine mounts are from a 66 Mustang and engine set back as far as I could get it.
This is why in the "Sticky" we recommend using these mounts (read notes below pictures ) https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/albums/289-302-351w-swap-mounts.41498/ Like Chevy's Ford also had a short and long water pump.the "short" water pump was used prior to 1970 in cars and the lower hose was on the passenger side as seen in this picture in a '54 Ford 302 swap. Some early 70's Ford Econolines also used them. The "short" water pump also used a shorter harmonic balancer that used a 3 bolt lower crank crank pulley after 1970 the "long" water pumps harmonic balancer was longer and the crank pulley used 4 bolts. I did an article that is also in the "sticky" many moons ago,see post # 5 here https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/
Thanks, I got all of that but I just bought a new y block radiator with the water pump inlet (radiator outlet) on the drivers side so wanted to use that radiator. Everything worked out, just wanted to post what worked for me.
I've been struggling to come up with an idea to disguise the Lokar pedal in mine and never even thought to paint it. Forrest for the trees I suppose...
I****ume you are talking about the pedal arm Dos Cincos, Lokar has them in black. But paint would work on the others.
Why not modify an early-mid 70s Torino gas pedal/cable? That's what I did for my '55 with a 289-C4 combo...in 1982!! Had to drill a hole in the firewall in line with the carb throttle arm to run the cable sheath through, cut/weld the pedal arm to work with my floor pan and take up slack in the cable. The end for the carb throttle arm snapped into place on the ball stud bolted to the throttle arm.
Not the purpose of this thread but we ran into the same issue and solved it by moving the radiator in front of the yolk.
Thanks, I have been trying to leave the cars basic structure as untouched as possible and it would have required some trimming of the lower splash panel to move the radiator forward. If it came down to that being my only option I would have done it but was just trying to show others it could be done without cutting. While the car still had the original y block I had installed the Champion aluminum radiator and that thing was huge! So when I did the 302 swap I still wanted to use the new y block radiator so it worked in the original location and still clear. I could have used a different pedal if I took the stock heater plenum out and then almost anything would have fit but again was trying not to alter an original low mile car so that it couldn't easily be returned to stock. I have several other cars that have been modified so they will never be stock again and hot rodded in a more "conventional" manner such as crossmembers removed, replaced, modified, firewalls cut, etc. . I guess I didn't make that clear in my post.
I did something like that in my 59 F100 but I was trying to work around the stock heater****embly on my 55, I will try to look at the Torino****embly for future reference. Torinos are not something you see very much anymore. If I remember the one I used in my F100 was from a Galaxie I found in a U Pull It in 1988! Now the wrecking yards are full of SUV's, minivans, and front drive imports.
I have the original heater in mine. Is the fiberboard plenum extension your issue? Post pics to illustrate from the driver's side so we can see the plenum and firewall.
Yes, the fiberboard plenum was the issue. I really didn't want to cut it up or remove it, it is original and in great shape. The picture I posted that shows the pedal upper link in the car, the plenum is to the right and the steering column is to the left of the upper pedal. I will try to get another picture tomorrow.
Hey, I am glad you posted this picture! I really wasn't picking up on how this mounted until I saw your post with the picture. Entirely different concept on how to mount a cable pedal than what I have seen. Thanks
Okay, here are the pictures of the inside pedal mounted from a different angle. The pedal is in the exact location where the original was located, it just dosen't hinge at the floor like the stock one did. I may try to modify it to work with the stock pedal later but I may like this one as is so we shall see.
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