Definitely go with a LED bulb in the trouble light. I have an ordinary one in mine, keep dropping it and it still works. It stays cool and I think the bulb is plastic.
View attachment 4879146 This is my go-to trouble light, it’s a Bluepoint got it from my Snap-On man, but other brands are available. Rechargeable and bright LED’S and Hexagon shaped ends so it doesn’t roll View attachment 4879146 View attachment 4879158
I went ahead and bit the bullet. Too crappy out to fly my models (or garden) so it's Tyvek suit time.... This was about the worse job so far. Even with the Tyvek suit covering me I'd get tiny spray particles landing on my cheeks and burning. I followed directions to the "T" but when I was all done I really couldn't see much difference. Maybe a little less sheen on the metal. I put down plastic sheeting to cover the cement but still got dribbles and over-spray. So then spent a bunch of time swabbing the floor down with water and baking soda. That's mostly what you see here: So next I'll spray the underside with Rustoleum. It worked well enough on the inside of the fenders in 1966, so onward!
Too cold to paint yesterday, so I spent time with a scotch-brite pad and cleaner/degreaser going over the metal that last week I etched with the After-Blast. The temperature came up today so it was time to paint. First I laid an old piece of felt down to protect the floor and taped on a paper curtain to control the overspray: I used Rustoleum Automotive gloss black. Here you are looking across the underside of the car (front-end is to the right.) You can see that I have painted the drive-train tunnel and the area on the other side of it: Another view, this time looking back towards the rear of the car. That's my steel sawhorse sitting cross-wise in the rear-end tunnel: Here we are looking from the engine compartment towards the rear. I took a short break in the middle of the painting job to take these pictures. You can see that I still need to spray the left side (note how clean I managed to get the metal before painting): So, I got paint on everywhere except the two areas forward where the jack-stands support it (after 48 hours I can go back under and finish painting those areas.) I pulled the body up on the cable in the rear and painted the area where the steel sawhorse had supported it. So now it will have to stay suspended back there for 48 hours for the paint to dry completely and then I'll have to put some towels on the sawhorse so I don't scratch anything. Rustoleum has a rubberized undercoat that I might use to go over this paint. Haven't decided yet. Of course, if I decide to do that I'll have to go over everything (again!) with the scotch-brite pads to give it some mechanical adhesion.
Looks good, I’d only do the undercoat in areas such as wheel wells. I did basically the same thing on my coupe, once it was down to bare metal, treated everything with Ospho, then rustoleum primer and that satin black. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks nice! My coupe was sprayed with the rubberized undercoat and then sprayed with clear. The clear was supposed to make it easier to clean the bottom of the car. It's not as smooth as I would like and it is difficult but possible to get the bottom side of the car clean. I think 31Apickup's idea of just coating the wheel wells with the undercoater is a good idea. Bed liner would be even better in those areas.
I appreciate the comments from all of you! I was thinking that the undercoat would help provide some sound deadening, but your comments about the difficulty in cleaning the undercoat makes me hesitant about using it. Back in 1966 I undercoated the wheel wells and I've noticed that they are very hard to clean. Maybe it's better to only use the internal blankets designed for sound and heat reduction?
Had some time this afternoon so did a little work on my 40. Paint in the rear-end tunnel has had a few days to dry so I draped an old piece of carpet on my saw horse and lowered the car on it (don't want to scratch my new paint - that no one will ever see ): I still had to finish up painting the area under the jack-stands so I put up my paper again to reduce the amount of overspray when I sprayed near the side of the car: So, here is how it ended up looking. Almost like brand new! Here is looking down the drive-shaft tunnel. Rattle cans work pretty well if you keep a wet edge: Tomorrow I get to start on the trunk. Oh joy!!
When I built my 40 coupe, after the body was painted top and bottom I sprayed Lizard Skin inside the body and then decided to spray the bottom of the body also. After the car was close to complete, drivetrain installed and exhaust and plumbing done, I was told that I would regret spraying the bottom of the body and should have painted over it. Well too late for paint but I was concerned enough to call the company and asked what to expect. He thought that it would be fine. After 20 years and 40,000 miles it still looks great.
I just found this and read it up to date. You're doing great work! Scrubbing that underside must have been miserable, but it's done now. If you stay that determined you'll have this thing done in no time flat. Devin
Thanks for the input! Did you use the sound-deadening or the heat insulation type? And you did spray the bottom? Did you spray the ceiling of your coupe? Any problem with it sticking?
I'm always amazed that I built this thing the first time as a high-school student. Not as thoroughly as this time, but if I start to lag I just remind myself that I did it when I was 16 so why is it hard for me now!
Thanks! (But I've got a long ways to go!) I'm going to be dependent on you all for guidance and advice.
Hello Scott. Mick here. your doing an excellent job with the 40. I was looking at the photo of you and your friend unloading the flathead from the pick up. I also use a hoist such as the one you fellows have. I urge you to realize that these lifts are very handy, but have limitations. They can become unstable very quickly when certain parameters are exceeded. When the motor was hanging off the boom and you guys were prying the wheels over the bump into the garage the center of gravity appeared to be very close to the point of tipping, in my humble opinion. I would suggest lowering the motor and retracting the boom before moving the lift. with the motor as low as feasible it would be much more stable when actual rolling occurs. Not trying to be a critic I noted that both of you guys had your back to the load while working the hoist over the bump. Sideways swing can be easily induce by even slight lifting of the hoist. These devices will become unstable when any side forces are introduced to the weight being held. The same principles apply in the world of lifting and rigging with actual cranes. When moving loads we would always lower the load as much as possible. I also am trying to bring a 40 Ford back to life and am following your work with interest. Carry on Sir.
Thanks for the pointers on using the lift, Mick. Sometimes when we get working on these things we forget how tricky they can be.
I got going on the trunk without taking any "before" pictures. Not sure it matters all that much - just look at the picture below and imagine either a light coat of rust or flaky paint where you see bare metal. This was a really filthy job. When you look at that sidewall (below) you are seeing an area of undercoat/tar at the top, and then a band where there was exposed lightly rusted metal (you can see that this area corresponds to the curve of the fender mount), and then below that an area of undercoat/tar going to the floor. The wire brush on my angle grinder threw tiny bits of tar all over the place when I tried to clean the side surface. And worse, when I used the degreaser and scotch-brite pad to clean it all up, the degreaser sort of melted the surface of the undercoat and smeared that all over the place. So, it is pretty clean but I wish I could find a degreaser that won't melt the under-coat. There is a dent in the left side of the spare tire well that I tried to pound out but with little success. It is too far under the car for me to reach with any kind of dolly. I suppose I just managed to work-harden the metal. The old sweatshirt I was wearing is too filthy to even throw in the washer. I thought that doing the underside of the car would be the worst part of the clean-up and that's why I did it first. But I was wrong. This was worse since I got to lean forward for long periods of time and the end result is not quite to my liking. I'm going to take another look at it tomorrow to decide if I want to go round 2 with it or just say "good enough!" I think I need a degreaser/cleaner that won't smear the undercoat if I am going to get the metal clean enough for After-Blast and paint. And I haven't applied the After-Blast yet! Ugh!
I used Dyna Mat on all surfaces On the ceiling I added metal tape to all of the seams in the Dyna Mat just in case it was to get hot enough to allow some of the black goo to escape at the joints. I have had not rouble with the dyna Mat coming loose. In fact when you get ready to set a piece in place you want to be very sure it is cut to the right size and positioned correctly because it really sticks to the surface without much pressure applied. I put an additional layer of Dyna Pad on the firewall . This stuff you have to glue on yourself. I did have some of it come loose but reapplied the adhesive and fixed that problem. Even did my doors. When these doors are closed they make a satisfying clunk noise (no tinny sound). There are a lot of products available that can be used in place of Dyna Mat. Some cost less. I suggest you do some comparison shopping before buying. As to your attempts to remove the insulation in your trunk. I think I used a putty knife and mineral spirits to remove most of mine. Unless you have to weld in that area you may want to consider just apply your new insulation over the tar coating . But if you want to remove all of your surface rust the tar has to go. Looks like your tool box is in good shape. Most of them are rotted away on these 39/40 Fords. Keep at it , I admire your energy and enthusiasm on this project. Sam
20 years ago when I did this I bought what the local speed shop had, buckets of Lizard Skin. If there were two different ones I was unaware. I sprayed everything inside and the bottom of the body. It has never shown any inclination to come loose. Your tenacity to clean the bottom of your 40 is admirable. Great job.
Well yes it is heavy but I would say more like around 100 lbs. The reduction in heat and noise makes it well worth the extra weight and cost in my opinion.
I don't know if you have any kind of before/after experience, but do you feel it makes a real difference to put it everywhere? I have only used it in a roadster I did for someone, not a valid comparison.
I have had good luck removing that "TAR" with a propane torch and scraping it off with a putty knife. Before you start make sure you have whatever fire fighting things you have close at hand like fire extinguisher etc. ( I never had need for them but just in case). Warm the tar with the open flame of the torch until it gets soft and scrape it off with the putty knife. Have a container to hold the tar after it's scrapped off handy. After a few tries you will learn just how much heat is needed to make it soft enough to scrape off cleanly. If you do a good job with just small amounts of tar left on the metal it can be removed with lacquer thinner.
I drove a 38 Ford sedan around while I was doing some projects on it. Before I installed the dyna mat it was noisy and hot. The doors when being closed sounded tinny like old an truck. After application of the dyna mat the results were the same as my coupe. For sound insulation you don't really need to cover everything. I knew I was not going to install AC so I figured I would go ahead and cover everything I could. I think it was worth the cost and effort. No I don't own stock in dyna mat.
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