Technical ***December 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Lil Saint Nick!***

Yep, .040 copper wire. Easy to install and had no problems after installation.

 

Thanks,I don't plan on hard-core racing,that should work.

 

Man, you guys sure look like you're having fun. What a great bunch of cars.

 

Anybody ever hear of running an oil pump from a 50's Ford 100E from Great Britain in a Model A/B?
Looks like the correct configuration and rotation. Also has built in pressure relief.
100E-6600-B-1__3000001__ by nomadpsd, on Flickr
100E-6600-B-2__3000001__ by nomadpsd, on Flickr

 

Hey Phil,
Unless you already bought it, I'd get one of the 59 AB (banger adapted pumps). I haven't seen and/or checked out the pump shown/pictured. Does it come with sump arm/screen ? Is pressure relief located in bottom portion ?
There are guys ( USA) here who make a great light weight alum with hardened chev gears. I've bought/used adapted 59 AB pumps that and old 4E4 guy used to make. They were excellent ! Bill Stipe is a producer of a great alum A/B pump !

 

I just ran across these pictures online and it got me curious. Maybe some of our British members would know.

 

I'll ask Nervous Bob tomorrow - he rebuilds both so I'm sure he'll know.

 

When i was assembling my motor for my 28 i did a lot research on oil pumps.There wasnt a lot of good factual information.I ended up modifying my stock pump.
By tightening the clearance between the gears and bottom plate it really helped.It also modified to direct the oil through a filter and then into the upper area.I looked at the stipe pumps but couldnt bring myself to spend close $400 on it.The modified pump puts out around 30 psi cold and then maintains between 10 to 15 psi hot which should be more than enough for a warmed up A engine.

 

need a little help . has anyone got pix of a panhard bar on a front axle (straight model a axle) ? thanks .

 

I read more than just shop manuals I recently finished this book it was a good read.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thinking of running an accessory magneto (wico) on my T, or a modern distributor from a Honda or another thats driven directly off the cam. Has anyone done either and have pictures?

Sent from my SM-N960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Steve,
Some are mounted to the right side radius rod or wishbone, close to the axle.
The other end to the frame or cross member on drivers side.
The geometry is not all that critical but there are many examples of the correct way to do this on line.
I seem to recall seeing it on some of the hot rod sites that sell them.
In a nut shell, both attachment points want to be the same distance off the ground when sitting level.

John

 

Phil,
interesting piece, never seen one, looks like it has potential.

John

 

Here's an exploded view of the 100E engine. Other than the cam being on the opposite side, looks like a more modern Banger.
Ford 100E by nomadpsd, on Flickr

 

The earlier 10hp and 8hp (tax class) engines are a scaled down and flipped four banger. The earlier distributors are a drop in replacement on an A engine - bit too much advance for some setups though. The 100E had an improved 1172cc engine with a block mounted waterpump. They have a cam chain instead of gears so I think the distributor drive skew gears are reversed.

Popular engine for clubman racing in the 50's and early 60's.

 

On the left side of the car's frame you can see a horizontal Heim Joint. That is a stationary fixture of the Panhard Bar to the chassis! It runs PARALLEL to the tie rod and axle over to the right side radius rod. I emphasis parallel because that's what it's got to be in static position. To get the bar horizont, the best way I know is to extend the chassis side location downward from the frame of the car. E ach end of the bar, of course has a flexible joint. And to keep everything working together your spring shackles on each side should be a a 45 degree angle!

 

thanks

thanks all . im getting the idea ............. steve

 

facts-about-cross-steer.pdf

 

Sorry, tried to rotate it... not tech savvy enough.

 

Missing having a Banger but still come here to enjoy...

Merry Christmas From Texas.......

 

rotated

 

Hey Burl,
Im not sure how durable a model A type pump is, if run hard ? My guess is good ...if great rebuild.
If you know of Jim Brierley, his first book has the information of details of A pump rebuild.
There is also an engine rebuilder , Joe Sivils, in Turlock, Ca. Who also CNCs an alum A/B pump with nodern hard steel gears...similar to Stipe pump. Ive used a number of high output oil pumps. Although high priced as you say, I liked Stipe pump as it was bullet proof AND I could adjust pressure from outside side plate.

 

The biggest issue with the A/B pump is volume,its flow rate is low.Restricted flow is caused by how the oil flows through the pump.you can use an external "stand alone" adjustable relief with any pump.the value of pressure is determined by how much rpm you push out of the engine,if you street drive a few pounds is adequate to keep the bearings fed.The model a was effectively fed by a few inches of gravity. There are those who spin 4k rpm with a stock B oiling system pressure and increased volume. There is no benefit exceeding what you need.

 

V4F,
Below are photos of a bar I put on banger. The chassis is lowered by reverse eye springs and leaf removal, so the bar only fit in front of the axle. Drivers side of bar is mounted to chassis, passenger side of bar is mounted to spring perch. This modification did make a positve change in handling. Hope this helps.

 

I agree, my buddy and I have the pressure vs flow argument all the time.
If you find the early V8 pump gears, they are the same diameter as the Model A/B pump but longer = volume.
Add a spacer plate and I make the pump a bottom admission...no air leak on a housing or worry about low oil level.
OHV that has additional oiling and full pressure crank...10 psig hot idle and relief at 35 psig above 2000 rpm where the relief is. The oil pan takes a little massaging

 

thank you much . this i can get my head around ........................... thanks ... steve

 

Drivers side of bar is mounted to chassis, passenger side of bar is mounted to spring perch.



No PhredH, the passenger side is not mounted to the spring perch, it's mounted to the shackle. Any time the spring height changes it will push or pull the axle sideways, relative to the chassis. If this was a cross steering car bump steer would likely be severe. in your case, with your drag link running lengthwise to the frame it may not create bump steer.

 

You could do with another bolt in that shock absorber link PhredH!

 

That's a nice lash up, no relief oil return issues, and as an added benefit its discharges like a fire sprinkler.

 

It just dawned on me that your setup would probably work for cross steer cars by simply putting the shackle bolt in the lower hole and the panhard rod in the upper hole. that would change the motion of the axle end of the panhard bar from horizontal to vertical and it would no longer push or pull the axle side to side. Or, at least the side to side movement would likely be negligible.

Nice job on the construction.