Don’t really know, it came rebuilt already in a 35 chassis my Pops scored! He stripped it down to inspect it, and make sure it was rebuilt, but didn’t pull the cam out to get the numbers. Cleaned it up, painted and dressed it. It ran real good in the chassis before. We will see!
Rear seat Looks good in back! And quite comfy as I remember! (Except Im older and fatter and squish the springs down more!) I decided I’m gonna go with the musclecar style pro car seats, Instead of the mustang seats, they look a little more ergonomic but still sixtyish . and dye the rear seat black with RIT! Been Looking up bunch of different ways to dye couches and fabric and things. looks pretty straightforward, and that’ll save me a lot of money in upholstery.
So… At some point in the past my Pop put a GM steering tilt column out of an impala, so I found out it was a 67 impala. However the column tube broke, and it spun around! Not the safest way to drive! because it was not designed to drive without power steering I think? Has some cheesy mesh instead of a solid tube. ....Anyway I dug through all of IDidit pre-made steering columns...and found that a 32 inch GM style would work, however I had a little snafu....my Pops welded the lower half of the rag joint to the F1 hundred steering box. So I had to have IDidit put a 48 1 inch lower shaft to fit a standard GM rag joint, so I think I have fixed the problem! It never had the rag in it as far as I know, andIt always seem to work, but maybe I’ll put one in just so it has a little bit of cushion? Seems like The shaft on the F100 box is long enough to probably cut and grind to a double D I figure at some point I can always cut the shaft and make it a double D end, and put some regular modern U joints in there?...... but if it’s not broke right now… I ain’t gonna fix it!
The Effie shaft will have a hole through it. Probably not real good to grind the sides flat, and cause weakness. Maybe you could insert a piece of bar into the hole, weld the end, then machine the double D? It would prevent collapsing.
Didn’t know it was hollow. Probably not gonna mess with it then.... unless the U joints get sloppy.... they are still tight. And the box has no slop either. ..ain’t broke....
Personally, I'd rather cut the junk off that box and install one single U joint. You can weld it to the shaft just as easily as your dad did. Then you wouldn't have a welded joint (that was meant to be a clamped joint) bolted to a rag joint that is missing the rubber. And, you have an F-1 steering box, not an F-100.
I was thinking about it, but it would be more money, and I would have to graft a short section of shaft to make up the difference. It works fine, once the car is back together you’ll never see it. Its a focal point right now. Also, i was told that is a 53-56 box, which is an f100. f-1 48-52
Finally got some car time today in between Costco and the dog groomer! Got my new master cylinder set up Mount all welded and solid! And my linkage! Even though I beefed up the bracket and cross member so it doesn’t flex, I still think I’m gonna put that lower one back on just act like a skid plate to protect the arm a little bit.
I think I might make a little beefier, and slightly wider skid plate ....Just for shits and Grins! [emoji16]
I found this... Doesn’t really matter what it is, it works good, no slop, and easy to steer for manual steering (yes I agree the joint is ugly.) but its staying... for now [emoji6] View attachment 4906401
Cant really see it once its all together. I have to stop myself sometimes And try to remember this is a homebuilt 60’s style. Time warp. I want to preserve some of the stuff My Pops did, and the unique mods, that makes it individual. I really like the Borgenson type u-joints also... but I don’t want to look to “street-roddish” I was hesitant about buying Speed way Radir rim copies, instead of Real Radir rims... but the price and style is great. So... its a tough battle... I like a lot of the individual 60s modifications, but safety comes into play also, but then I don’t want to look too modern street roddish and I’m not an absolute traditionalist! Either I have never colored in the lines! I am Just.... Me!
Agree! I totally get some people being inside the lines....like the TROG Guys trying to keep it period Correct. But that means they have “rules”! Anytime somebody tries to tell me what I can... And....can’t do I automatically wanna rebel! It doesn’t matter what it is! Lol! That’s why I kind of like some of the rat rod guys....in combination with traditional! I’m not talking about “shit rods” talking about the guys who are actually kind of artistic and innovative. I don’t always agree with some of the stuff they do, specially the real unsafe things but I can appreciate their differences not following the cookie cutter program! I need to have a club jacket that says “Lonewolf”!
That mesh is designed to collapse in an accident, idea was that the steering wheel would not kill you if you survived the wreck.
Well now that makes sense! So the tube on the inside of there, must be sleeved or something so it collapses also? Being Shanked with a steering column at high speed.... Gave me an awful vision.... Can you imagine....if a bunch of 67 Impala‘s, Fords, and Chryslers were still on the road today...instead of the new cars, with the same speed and crazy way people currently drive! There would be blood, guts, and bodies everywhere!!
Skid plate or not, that master cylinder and linkage hanging completely below the frame like that is a BAD idea. There are any number of ways to get that MC up into the frame where it is protected. I know that you want to keep the original pedals but you need to reconsider that MC location. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Solved that problem! Have to run over a granite bolder to rip it out now’ Plus you cant really see....but the crossmember protects it, and the wish Bone is actually lower. Im satisfied.
Ya your fine. Ya wanna know how hard you have to hit something to bend 3/16" steel? Ask an off-road guy.
On second thought, I think your box IS an F-100. But it looks like someone welded a stub of the old sector to the end of the F-100 sector. Can you see a weld? A stock F-100 box would have a pinch bolt holding the pitman arm on instead of the large nut like you have. I'd really be looking that modification over well before using it again.
Finally done with all the frame/suspension welding! I can’t believe house much stronger the frame is with those little extensions going to the outer rail, I was on the fence about it but they were already cut out...glad I did it! Time to Blow this chassis apart clean it up and start painting it! And then rebuild rear end!
Yup! Its grafted, I just need to find out if my Pops did it, because I know he would do it correctly, being a welder at Exxon and a machinist at Mare island In the 60’s if someone else?.... dunno. It looks solid, and Worked for 30 years
Well I pulled off the steering box, and got a closer look, cleaned it up better. it looks like the Graft was done really good other than the weld clean up,but I put a straight edge on it and there’s no run out, so I’m pretty sure that it’s probably stubbed and drilled. Not bad for not using a Lathe, but I don’t think you would be able to unless you had a big one, cause of the teeth on the end of the sector shaft. I’m not to worried about it.
FYI! If you’re trying to put Speedway Lincoln brakes on the later square spindles (46-48) you still have to grind a little bit, and round the edges, flatten the top and bottom, I also ground smooth the tooling marks on the backing plates so it will all seat nice! Maybe take the edge off the wheel cylinder brake line connector to clear the king pin a little more.... its real close! Speedway does sell the round spindles already ground to fit, but they’re kind of expensive, if you already have your own, especially the square ones. It took about five minutes! Enjoy! [emoji16]
Well I got one side fitted! Except I’m kind of pissed off, it has a wobble! I think the hub is bent a little bit from beating on it to get the studs out on the first one, I was a lot nicer to the second one! I’m thinking I could probably mount it on the spindle with a run out gauge and just whack it with a hammer until it is straight! It’s not that far off. I’m afraid to heat it up and bend it too much! Or crack it because it’s too cold! Unless it’s China bills drums! I’m going to check the other one on the same Hub just to make sure before I drill them for the 4 1/2 pattern!
If you can get them close then cut the face in a lathe they will run beauty. Surprisingly most drums don't run very well. That's why the floating bendix brakes are better than the old ones with fixed mounts on both ends.
The Jalopy Journal
