I think I would start with 50 grit roloc sanding disc, some hand sanding and then finish up with scotch brite.
Nice job Bill. When you look at it from the front of the car all you'll see is the outline of the block.
Awesome work. I have a little drum sander that would work great for something like that. Love the progress Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I use an oscillating spindle sander for similar work. A 36 or 50 roll would cut aluminum pretty fast.
As I would of expected nice work on the trimming. And thank you for the reply to @TRENDZ. I was wondering the same thing. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice work Bill. Good demonstration of measure twice cut once but I didn't realize that there was 3rd step I've been missing in the middle about getting a beverage...I may start using this.
In retrospect, it's seems a more elegant attack on this aspect of the project would have been to make a pattern and let that guide a router. I'm good at that,.....i.e. 20/20 hindsight. I did however step up to a spindle sander. That was a just an okay solution. Power sanding aluminum just doesn't work very well but it got the job done along with other techniques, like draw filing, rotary files and scotch brite, for movin metal.
I was all jazzed about bolting up the flywheel before discovering that the holes for bolting to the crank were too small. They were stock size in the new flywheel. For those who have not been there,...the stock setup is 7/16 bolts with nuts on the back,....which is a real PITA to get to. The clearance holes in the crank flange are exactly the size for tapping for 1/2 fine threads,....which is what I've done previously and on this engine. Just forgot about the flywheel until I was ready to assemble.
Progress been slow over the Holidays. Finally got the freshly balanced clutch assembly installed and buttoned up. I decided to set the engine in the newly vacated "A" bay just for fun. Plus, it yields a bit more floor space and gets it up where I can work on it without bending over.
While spinning up the oil pump you need a 2nd person slowly turning your engine over with a ratchet. There's 2 spots where one rocker bank will fill, & the other side at the other point.
Looking good, Bill. With the motor sitting high on the chassis like that reminds me of the "purple people eater"
Happy New Year y'all! Started on the next chapter, which becomes another "new venture,....adventure" for me. I had previously mocked up the Lightning blower on a junk manifold and various MDF pieces. When the blower is placed where it looks right, the pulley is about 2.75" short of the serpentine belt plain. I could acceptably slid the blower forward almost an inch but that would still require lengthening the snout and/or the input shaft. After Googling around on the interweb, I have discovered an opinion that the snout for an Eaton blower for a Cadillac is longer and may be interchangeable. Understanding that and figger'n how to pull that off is currently in my critical path.
Having never looked inside one of those, I'll ask some dumb questions. Is there any way to add a spacer at the flange parting line? Is the shaft a full length piece? Could it be stretched? .
Spacer???? never thunk of that, tx Then next thought is, that'd be a chunk of aluminum about 6 x 8 inches and 3 inches thick and a whole bunch of machining. Maybe,... but a long shot.
Another reality that I've gotta address is hood clearance. Initially I was too casual, thinking "no problem". But mocking up the whole package, with the imagined intercooler, indicates I'm vertically challenged. Preliminary measurements, with my Roadster as reference, suggest I'm within 1/4 inch of the space available beneath the hood. And, this is going in a Model A with a slight channel. The 270 engine is slightly less tall and I can compensate a bit by engine location. However header clearance must be anticipated with a frame that is a bit narrower as well. Taking everything into account, I'm thinking the options are,..... "intercooler or hood". Gonna sleep on it.
The Jalopy Journal
