Technical ***December 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Lil Saint Nick!***

Annual Grinchmas yard art to piss off the neighbors that only have "White Lights"

 

Done for the year...roads are slicker than owl snot on a brass door knob!

 

Just in time for Christmas, my engine came back from midway across the country. Conversion of the A crank into the T block is done. Still much more to do, but this was a big step.




Stipe adjustable cam gear and reproduction "Roof" .310" cam (out of production)

 

That's awfully nice looking...

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Fabber,
Now I see the error in my geometry, thank you.

Hotrodfil,
Good eyes on the missing bolt (wonder how long its been missing?)

Peace and Merry Christmans
Phred

 

PhredH, sorry man, I don't like picking at other guys projects and your panhard rod seems to be working on your car so I wouldn't have said anything, but I didn't want V4F building something that wouldn't work for his cross steering car.

You found a clever way of attaching the panhard to the axle without welding to the perch or drilling the axle. Nice job.

 

Years back, while helping with a Ford 10 HP project, I looked into oil pumps. It seems Ford 10, 100E, model A and flathead V8 oil pumps share the same gear diameters and centre spacing. The difference is in the gear length (and the housing). We simply used 1/4" longer gears and made a body extension plate to suit. . Worked well. I think the gears we used were early V8.
This interchange information may be of use to someone.

 

I had Nervous Bob put a 100E oil pump in the B block he's working on at the moment.
The top of the body is the same diameter but a little shorter so you can see the top collar slightly overhang in the threaded hole. Not enough to block the oilway. The tang still engages with the drive.

Also - the bottom plate is a direct replacement for the Model A one.

 

I've got Sterling, dynamic absorbing, flywheels on hand. All three weights, 22#, 33#, 64#. Drilled for early V8 pressure plate.
Get yourself a Christmas present you want and can enjoy year around. PM me for details
Larry

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Ok , we are making progress,finally. The real question is what sort of lube does this water pump require and how often . The present pump is a B pump on a B and has a modern pump with the screw down grease filled cap, so easy to do . This critter looks like it may need a dedicated grease gun ???? Bit of a PIA if its so>
I know you cant see it in the pics but for some odd reason the distributor drive shaft was maybe 5/8” too long ( yes we did take some off the head to raise theC/R but not that much, so rather than modify what we presume is a hardened shaft we put a 5/8 spacer under the dizzy. Oh yes its Steve Serr miller head and attachments. Hopefully we can more than double the original HP and still have bags of torque .

 

The setup looks really good, you will not be disappointed with the power developed.
Nice Christmas present.
As for the water pump, you can email Steve to see what lube is preferred.

I will make one observation, please be careful with using the "B" upper housing as the attachment point to the stand. I have had these fail in the past and you do not want that motor laying on the floor.
J

 

You ott'a be able to haul ass in one trip with that set up.
I remember that I've had to 'trim to fit' the dizzy drive shaft. Better to do with one that is to long.
Yes, check with Steve as if the pump has a modern seal (pack less) the zerk with the cap might be just for looks. No lube other than at assembly necessary.
I like Chevron SRI in the front as it is a polyurea based grease and is 'stickier' than the lithium based greases and stays in the bearing better at higher RPM (above 3000) in my experience.

 

got a very speedy reply from Steve Serr , top guy. I had to admit to I couldn’t remember it it was his pump .

 

Cocked Henry's crossbow tonight..

 

Nice , looks a little clunky to use unless you can fit a ratchet type ring wrench in there , of course then once its on you cant turn it around. What stops the bar bending ,or it just doesn’t? Yeah i know original ford spreaders are hard to find. So you have done a nice job of improvising .

 

Schedule 80 tubing,1" grade 8 all thread,single stitch triple pass 7018.. never tried to find an original.

 

leakless water pump . no lube except ..... antifreeze + or water wetter , internal lube

 

I need one for a reversed eye setup.......any ideas?
J

 

Generally on reversed eye you have to install the bare main leaf with difficulty then install the rest of the pack .

 

I have a chance to get a stuck 1928 chevrolet engine for cheap, I know the cranks and pretty close to T, and I know I would need an adapter. Are there any secrets to the T engine with chevrolet head and crank I should know about?

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Hey John
This what I came up with.

 

BriPhaeton
Great Idea!

 

Interesting
How do you get the axle in place with clamp on?
I just disassemble the spring and reassemble
J

 

Anyone have a ‘dressing’ or idea to preserve an older top (roadster). Ive got a top that looks like cats used it for a scratch pole. DRY also orig ‘31 ?

 

John, This is a speedway Model T low profile spring, I'm trying to use with a Model A axle. The 1 1/2 angle iron clamps were low enough for the spring perches on the Model A axle. I'm going to have to dissemble my spring too, it wouldn't spread enough with the spring bolted to the frame.

 

Looking Good! Been Watching your progress great Job! The Motor Rocks..

 

Thanks!

If you can still get an adapter for the head, then it might be worth it (unless your going to carve your own). It really depends on what it looks like too. Stuck could just be minor or look like it came from the Titantic.

As far as the crank, I think it's alot closer than the A crank, but just as much work to install. This would be a labor of love project, not a cheap way in, unless you can do most of the machining yourself.

If you plan on keeping your engine / trans T based, the best improvements are in the intake / carb /exhaust / head areas-----in that order. A Scat crankshaft should go without saying for a stock T bottom end. Your building a light car, you wont need much to move it.

 

I'm going to design a clip that slides on the main leaf and works by being bound under load of the spreader..clearance is an issue,offsetting the spreader from under the spring? Going to fool around some...maybe dual spreaders we'll see.

 

Be very careful! I have a chipped tooth and a scar on my chin from this very dangerous operation! We have a Nor-Cal FAST spreader available for all paid up members in good standing- Guess that lets you out!!!! Much safer to take the spring apart and just do the main leaf. HAVE FUN!

 

Hey my member is in good standing...all done with the widow maker for now,dropped her down some and put on some bigger meats..and fenders!!!