COE Autocar Build Thread

Check out the bumper on the Autocar prototype. Bent channel and on the top Diamond plate welded to the top similar to a rear step bumper. Just don't put it too close to the sheet metal. We had 2" clearance from the radiator and when we did a flexing twist test by driving one front wheel on the loading ramp the bumper still punctured the radiator. this looks like something you might like. Just my 2 cents.

 

Yeah, that is the standard bumper on the heavier version of my truck, mine had a slimmer, prettier version.
Either way I go, I'm pretty sure it will incorporate diamond plate, and the step will most likely be heavy expanded metal. (cue the Tim Taylor ARRR ARRR ARRR)

 

Like this maybe. I like the fog lights, tow hooks, grab handles, and spot light.

 

Something else that comes into play here is bumper height. The top of the step on that LeCrone truck is about 22"-24" off the ground, mine is now 14". A bumper that low serves no purpose, basically putting driving lights on the ground. (I have a nice set of Perlux with the baffles) My bumper will have to be somewhere near the height of the lower crossbar of the grille.
One thing I don't have to worry about is blocking the radiator, as it is behind the front axle. the area behind the grille is dead air space.
I will definitely need grab handles, but they will need to be just above the location of the spotlight on that truck. There will also be a grab handle on the windshield divider that is necessary to pull yourself into the seat. (yes, I've practiced mounting the beast)

 

Merry Christmas everyone!
I spent the day drilling the frame for bumper mounts. Doesn't sound like a whole days work, but it wasn't as simple as it sounds. That part of the frame is 2X6 rectangular tube so I had to weld in round tubes, so the frame won't crush when I torque the bumper bolts. I'm waiting until the bumper is finished, to post pics.

 

Merry Christmas to All!!!!

 

GARAGE FIRE TONIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!! Good news is it was mostly in the attic and a I caught it before much damage was done. Bad news is water, extinguisher dust and soggy insulation everywhere.
Fire dept said it was the batteries in an old camera I had in a cabinet that started it.
I'm probably done working in the garage until spring. (floor is a skating rink now)

 

I'm sorry to here this. i am hearing more of this lately. A friend of mine garage fire started with moisture condensation in the wall causing an electrical short.

 

WOW
glad you and your stuff are mostly okay!

 

that stinks (and makes me think about unused battery devices in my house and garage....)

How's the COE?

 

So sorry to hear that, but everyone is ok and it could have been way worse. I had a small garage fire many years ago, its something we should probably all be a little more aware of...... Gonna check my extinguishers right now

 

COE was untouched, not even by water! I got the holes in the ceiling patched up today and a fire in the wood stove thawing out the mess. There is much less water and ice on the floor than I expected, so I'm back to working on the truck. (and feeling very fortunate)
Insurance pays $500 toward the fire dept call (don't know how much that will be) Any materials I need to fix the ceiling will be well below the $1000 deductible I have on the building and contents.

 

I've been making some headway on the Autocar rear fenders. The ones I mounted several years ago seemed cool at first, but I've grown to dislike the fact that they don't really fit the 40" axle spread I have, plus I have decided that I want an army(ish) look to the truck. here are the old vs new fenders


I can't get a picture of the new ones mounted until spring when I can back the truck outside. I've got about 18" in which to work between the truck and wall on one side and 0" on the other side
I have the front bumper partially made, still need to add something for a grille guard and the driving lights are just held on with vice-grips



I'm also thinking I should chop the grille so more of its style is visible about the bumper
Yup that's the supervisors tail!

 

IMHO which means nothing, I would not chop the grill. I know it's a lot of work but maybe a dip in the bumper and have the receiver exit out of the bumper. It would still have a little stock bumper effect. Ilike the perlux. I had them on my Dodge van back in 1975. It look like a 737 was landing.

 

Steve, I found this shirt in with my painting clothes.

 

Sounds like you need to turn your COE into a fire truck....

Glad things are turning out OK. I worry about old batteries in stuff that I have boxed up in the basement. Guess I'd better start going through boxes and doing a search for them.

 

2 1/2 months since the last update! It doesn't seem like I've done much, but in that time I took a vacation to New Mexico, ( and slipped over into Texas and visited Blue) got poked twice, did a few honey-do's and got a bit more done on the Autocar.
I added a bull bar to the bumper. (Still have to add a couple cross bars in the center portion)
Notice that the bottom of the grille hangs below the bumper, that will change.

Just today, I finished the step. ( wife likes the "no slip" expanded metal) Us old geezers need all the help we can get to keep from busting our skulls)


I also built a quick and dirty press brake to form the front corners of the bed. I had tried once before to roll those corners but didn't like the results.



I don't have any pictures of the process, but I sandwiched my sheet steel between the H-beam and the pipe, then tightened the top nuts to make a slight bend, move the sheet an inch and repeat. Lots of fooling around, but after a couple of days I had the 2 pieces matching my template (8" radius and a 16" flat area) This came out a whole lot better than the so-called professionals did. (See posts 45 and 46 of this thread)

I still have to mount the drivers fender and build the step for that side.

 

Nice work, Man! What thickness are those front bed corners??

 

1/8". They are the part of the bed that was destroyed by the professionals. I cut these off, saved them and now have reworked them.

 

I have the new (2nd generation) rear fenders mounted. I think they fit my army truck vision much better than the first ones. Note: the front rear axle has smaller tires that make things look a bit cattywampus.


Next I will attack the sleeper and bed doors. I am going to finish the compartments in the bed, then build the doors for both the bed and the sleeper. I started on the sleeper doors some years ago, but messed them up and don't know how much of that effort I can salvage.

 

Just got caught up on this. Interesting build. Love some of what you're doing, some not so much. But absolutely love that you're doing it. That's why we have this hobby, because we all have a vision of our perfect vehicle, and it isn't stock. How much money did the fire end up setting you back?

 

The only expense from the fire was a couple hundred dollars of fire call fee not covered by insurance. Later this summer I will have to replace a few feet of 2x8 upper wall plate and a piece of ceiling tin and I have scraps laying around for that. I escaped quite cheaply!
As for your opinions of what you like/don't like about my build, I wouldn't mind hearing them. Opinions are always welcome!

 

I'm not overly fond of the fenders, but it fits your vision, so those I agree on completely, they'll fit the vehicle perfectly. The one I don't agree with is the bull bar, simply because it kind of hides the grill, and that grill is really cool. But I'm not the one building it, and anytime you get tired of parking it at your place, I'll gladly take it off your hands. FWIW, I have a '52 Chevy COE I'm trying to get into my shop (stupid life hurdles), and I'll be altering it's looks significantly. When I finally get it in and start on it, drop by and give me your thoughts. Criticisms are rejected, but critiques are always welcomed

 

Circa 1940 White Crew Cab

 

Sometime after I bought my Acar, I found a 2dr version of this one on Ebay. I had my finger on the bid*****on and would have gotten it for the starting bid of $500, (no one bid on it) but I had just started a new job and couldn't get time off to go to Idaho to get it, so I had to pass.

 

Been making a little headway, driveshaft in, getting a handle on air ride plumbing, (Damn, brass fitting get expensive) and more headway on the bed. Yesterday, was a red letter day, as I finally shot epoxy primer at the bed. (only one side but it's a start)
I bought my primer from the same place as my olive drab and I was thinking it should have been a dark green or grey, but all he carries is red oxide. Once I get the other side primed, it will be ready to put back on the chassis. I will wait until I have air lines, brake lines and wiring run as crawling around on my back under the truck isn't my favorite activity.

 

Bed is all primed and back on the chassis. Now I am working on the brakes. There are a couple of things that make my braking system a bit unique. First, I have diesel power so hydro-boost is pretty much mandatory and second, I have three axles, each with different braking requirements. The front axle (disc brakes) carries the most weight when running empty, so it will get full master cylinder pressure. Rear rear axle (powered /drum brakes) when running empty, probably weighs 1/3 to 1/2 of front axle, so a regular disc/drum master cylinder should work for front and rear rear axles. What to do about front rear axle? It will spend almost all of its time lifted, and when in the down position will only carry about 1/2 the weight of the rear rear axle. I don't know if I will have enough fluid volume to plumb both rear axles together, and if I do plumb them together, I think I will end up over braking the front rear and sliding tires in a hard stop. If it weren't for the DOT, I would skip brakes on the front rear.
My original thought was to run 2 separate hydro boost/master cylinder units controlled by one pedal. One unit (dual mc) plumbed to the front axle and front rear axle, (with a brake bias valve to reduce pressure) the other (single mc) plumbed to the rear rear axle.
Factory brake set-ups on 3 axle motorhomes use a slave off the rear rear axle to energize the front rear brakes, but they don't have to deal with the widely changing needs of a lift axle. (and God only knows what they use for master cylinders)
I don't imagine many on this forum have given much thought to this situation, but I'm willing to hear thoughts about it!

 

Re: Factory brake set-ups on 3 axle motorhomes use a slave off the rear rear axle to energize the front rear brakes, but they don't have to deal with the widely changing needs of a lift axle.

School me. Does it make a difference if the front rear brakes are actauted when the axle is lifted or not lifted? If not the slave off the rear axle sounds like it might be the answer. School me please.

 

I don't think it matters when lifted, I'm more concerned about when I am carrying half as much weight on the front rear as I am on the rear rear.
I was just talking to a truck driver neighbor, he said, rig a valve to shut off the brakes on the front rear axle, then only turn them on when being inspected. This might be my best solution!

 

Can you dodge this whole issue entirely because of the age of the truck? Would the forward rear axle have had brakes in the YOM? Your requirements sound alot like electric trailer brakes to me... Simple electric brake setup on the forward axle, trailer controller to vary the degree of braking zero to whatever....