Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

@REBEL43 need a little help.

 

@junkyardgenius what ignition light are you talking about?

 

If it's a one wire alternator, a lot of them don't have a provision for a charge light at all. The reason you can't use an LED and need an incandescent bulb on the others is that the LED doesn't provide enough draw to make the alternator start charging. I just wired a guys 55 Chevy and used an LED for the charge light, because he still has a generator and it doesn't need the draw to charge...but I'm thinking of changing it back to a regular bulb in case he swaps to a GM alternator later.

Make sure you don't have one side of the charge light grounded (you'd think it's hot and ground) but it's actually more like power in and power out (although it gets it's ground side from the alternator really). So you take your regular 2 wire (non grounded housing) bulb and put it inline in the white alternator exciter wire. So the wire comes out of the fuse panel (ACC side) goes into one side of the bulb, comes out of the other side of the bulb and continues on out to the alternator.

Key on- it gets power from the panel and pulls a ground from the alternator...when you fire it up and it's charging it loses it's ground (or backfeeds power from the alternator however you want to look at it) so the bulb goes out. Check it out and see how you've got it wired and let me know.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

@junkyardgenius your answer is above. Hope this helps.
Phil

 

Been wiring a guys 55 Chevy on the side after work, actually I was supposed to “clean up the wiring” but I ripped about 90% of it out and put it back new. I left the fuse panel since it was ours and I happen to know the guys that built it, haha. Just wanted to post a couple pictures in case it might help someone out with theirs. Here’s some before pictures


Here’s some pictures along the way

Testing the rear sockets to see which is the turn and tail wires. Bright would be the turn/brake and the dim would be the tail light put some male and female connectors on the stock turn signal wiring

Made a gauge harness with disconnects so it’s easy to wire on the bench and pull out later if needed, which was needed because the fuel gauge turned out to be bad.
Changed out the stock dash light bulbs to green LED’s, because I just like that old green glow!

I also put connectors on the custom auto sound head unit and speaker wires to make it all serviceable down the road
His kick panel speakers covered the stock dimmer switch so I moved it along with the rubber grommet

Got into the issue that the fuel sender is the stock 0-30ohm sender, but the gauge has an issue where it wants more like 0-60 ohms to get to full. Tested it and ended up ordering a new fuel gauge. Didn’t want to modify the sender in case he ever had to swap it down the road. I've got some videos I'll try to post of how I checked the gauges and sending unit.



got into some testing on the column to find a short, which was blowing the horn continuously. I’ll post more on that later, got to get back to building harnesses for now. Keep in mind that those pictures with the wire hanging out of the dash and running across the firewall are BEFORE I started on it, I'll post more later. I'm adding some courtesy lights under the dash and fixing the gauges right now. Waiting on some parts to come in.
Thanks for looking,
Jeremy

 

Here's some of the horn wiring I was getting into. The owner had a short in the column somewhere that blew the horn continuously. So my way of thinking...I took my test light and connected the hot lead to a constant hot, and connected the ground lead to the horn relay trigger coming out of the bottom of the column (which lit up my bulb because it was shorted to ground) then I proceeded to take apart the horn ring and column until my bulb went out, meaning I had found my short to ground. Hopefully these videos show up.

https://fb.watch/1o563n-Dgd/
This is taking the horn ring apart, starting to find the short

Got a bit of a short still in the housing and maybe column bushing
https://fb.watch/1o5hK6jPCB/

Think I've got it now. A little insulating and a homemade rubber spacer for the horn ring
https://fb.watch/1o5kakKx-o/

 

This was when I was checking out the fuel gauge. Tested the stock fuel sender with my meter and it checks out at 0-30ohm like it should. At first I just powered and grounded the gauge to make sure it went from empty to full, but upon closer inspection I learned that 0 was empty, but it needed way more than 30 ohms to get it to full.
https://fb.watch/1o5xiOmY15/


even tested my resistance box to make sure it was in spec. They say +/- 1ohm and add a little for the test leads, so we're still good there.
https://fb.watch/1o5DrwLECy/
I even connected the sender to the gauge, to bypass any possible interference, and the stock (new) 0-30 ohm sender just won't get it there. After all that I was confident in ordering my customer a new fuel gauge from Danchuk. I hate wasting other people's money until I'm sure it's what that need to do. Thanks again for reading all this stuff guys. Maybe it will help someone out.
Jeremy @ Rebel Wire

 

Thanks Jeremy . Yep I grounded one side of my bulb. Will hopefully sort it at the weekend.

 

Thanks Phil.

 

Looking for some advice. I bought this Rebel loom a long time ago - 10 years plus. I started installing it in my Model T Modified just a few months ago. It has had modifications because lighting is different over here and I'm using a generator and not an alternator. When I turned it on for the first time it turned the engine over but little else worked.

Looking at the back of the fuse box I could not see any live feed to most of the units (see picture below). I put jumper cables from the main live feed and it all worked as it should.

Am I missing something? Should it work without jumpers or do I need to add some permanently?

Any comments appreciated.

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Looks like there is a feed to each of the three buss bars; maybe back check to see why the feed wires aren't powered up.

 

@REBEL43 another question above.

@blackjack , I summoned Jeremy at Rebel, but he's not been on the HAMB for a couple weeks. Hopefully he will be back soon. Otherwise maybe someone else will help you .

 

You should have a constant 12 volts at the red wire, if not check your battery feed (starter solenoid/relay?). If a problem there you also may not be getting a voltage feed to your ignition switch, you should also have voltage at brown and orange wires with key in ignition position.

 

Yes, there is a constant 12v at the red wire but nothing at all on the other sections of the fuse box. The starter turns over fine. When I put jumper leads from the red wire to the bus bars in the other sections, everything works as it should.

Thanks for the help. I will run my multimeter over it tomorrow. It's midnight over here just now.

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Much appreciated, 24riverview has given me some useful pointers and I will follow those up tomorrow.

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Got it wired to a switch and a button - no key. Traced it to that. Have revised the wiring so fingers crossed that's it

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Sorry guys, I was off work last week and have been rewiring a 67 VW Single Cab while I was off. The power for 8 of those fuses come from the ignition switch. The brown accessory wire powers 4 fuses and the orange ignition wire powers 4 fuses. Go to your ignition switch, key on, those wires need to go on a terminal that's hot when the key is on. If it's a simple off-on switch you may have to tie them together with the coil wire. Let me know how it goes. Got back to work today and working on about 40 harnesses to ship out, haha.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Hi Jeremy, thanks for getting back to me.

There's no key, just a master switch and starter button. I've traced it to the switch. It's an NOS dual pole switch from a Russian aircraft. It wires like no dual pole switch I've seen before and that seems to be the source of the problems. Will rewire it tomorrow and all should be well.

If you could let me know what to do with the alternator exciter wire to get a warning light when the generator isn't charging then I can button it all up!!

Thanks again for all your help.



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You might have to make a jumper with the red ignition switch power, if it has multiple power in terminals to get the double pole single throw type operation. Let me know how it works out.

For the generator light, you'll just need a 2 wire bulb (nothing self grounding in the dash) cut the white exciter wire and let it be the power in and power out. So the white exciter wire will come out of the fuse panel and into one side of your 2 wire bulb, cut the white exciter, run the rest of the white wire from the other side of the bulb out to the Armature terminal of the voltage regulator.

 

Thanks all for the help and suggestions. Sorted now [emoji106]

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@REBEL43 I just finished wiring my 1966 Correct Craft inboard 302 tow boat. Waiting for warmer weather before firing it up. Everything went very good during the installation. Thank you so much for custom building my harness!

 

Thank you for posting the info! I bought a wiring set up from you folks for my truck <<<<< and it's still working great! Excellent customer service too!

 

Nice man! I remember building that. I bet that boat will fly!

 

Hey Jeremy is that EPDM Rubber coated wire y’all use?


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It's cross linked polyethylene XLPE, and SXL thickness for the insulation

 

Hey guys, just wanted to post on here and let you know we've been running behind on orders. I do all of our tech calls, emails, forum posts, make parts and do final assembly on everything that leaves the shop and we've been swamped with orders for the last month or so. I realize that's not an excuse, but it's just reality. We are and always have been a small company of a couple guys, and I realize we live in an almost instantaneous society where you click "buy it now" and the part lands on your doorstep I'm working on digging us out, but it's taking some time to get orders out and get back to building stock for the shelves. That's also why It takes me a while to see the questions on here sometimes. Don't hesitate to ask questions though, I'm still here to help out. Just letting you guys know, and as always we appreciate the support we get on the HAMB!
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Nothing wrong with being busy! I think everyone realizes that these are unusual times and that you're working hard; keep up the good work, Jeremy!

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it! Gotta take it when you can get it in this business. I just hate getting behind. We always appreciate the support from you guys and like to put out a nice product!

 

Not sure if this has been brought up yet or not, I'm not that ambitious, if I were to get the wiring harness ignition from a vehicle that matches my steering column would that be easy enough to integrate into one of your wiring harnesses?

 

@REBEL43 see above post.