Technical The upholstery thread to end all threads

Good To know.

 

I have the same one. It works great. With mine I added an extra shaft setup. With this I can go one stitch at a time.
Super slow.

 

OK, I see it now....makes more sense.

 

Vinyl and leather are rather spendy, using muslin or canvas to learn the machine and pattern development can save a few bucks

 

The post about the table is a very good point. Make sure the top is slick like formica so the material can slid easily. Set it up for the right height for you to work and see. Put your lighting where there aren't shadows. For us old guys, eyesight is very important and not easily available. I looked at a spool of thread I have . This is what is has on the label: High-Spec" 4oz. B69 Automotive Nylon Thread. It's not listed for outdoor use. For the post about panel board, people have used "chip board" forever but it sucks moisture so there are more modern alternatives. The one that many use is abs sheet panel. Normally sold in 1/16 and 1/8 thicknesses. If you buy the 4 x 8 sheet in 1/16, it's UPSable by being rolled up for shipping. You use a heat gun to shape it and abs glue to glue things together or fix mistakes. I would like to add that patience is mandatory. Watch a quilter. They spends hours trying to achieve perfection. If you want your interior to look great and you should because you will spend a lot of time in there, it takes time and much effort with patterns and sewing to make it right. I'm a speed demon but when it comes to the sewing machine, I put it in low gear and proceed with caution. Ripping out stitching isn't an enjoyable task. Unless you're particularly gifted, don't expect perfection right away.

 

I made all of the panels for the roadster out of abs. I was talking to a custom upholstery guy and he told me a horror story about ABS.

He said that he did a roadster and during the drive over to the Hot Rod Garage about 45 minutes away, the sun started bowing the panels. The guys at the HRG called and asked him what in the world he had done. He had no idea what they were talking about. Ruined his interior. It ended up being a complete re-rag.

He now uses a wood product, I can't remember the variety. I'll have to look at my notes.

 

We've used Tempered door skins for years. They are water tight and I've even run them through my English wheel to add some curve at times. They sew through with no problems and hold panel clips better than the Cardboard stuff the upholstery supply guys sell. Low's and Home Cheepo have them.

 

What is the product you’re referring to?
A picture or a link would be helpful.
I’ve never heard of Tempered door skins

 

What is a "tempered door skin"? I searched on Lowe's site for "tempered door skin" and it shows tempered glass doors for showers and I know that isn't what you're talking about

 

How about this
https://www.perfectfit.com/15347/15...olstery/Kraft-Tan-Waterproof-Panel-Board.html

 

I think you are referring to tempered hardboard.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardboa...0-115-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832777/202189720

 

I replaced the motor on my Singer 111 walking foot machine with one of these servo motors.
What a HUGE improvement for someone learning to sew!

 

Different neighborhood different name I guess. Arkiehotrods has the right name. They are listed as 1/8" but actually measure at .100, I guess that's a metric 1/8".

 

Pressed and bonded Kraft paper with an unseen polyethylene sheet barrier.

They go on to say how you can sew through it etc.
Sewing through it will punch through the “barrier “ as will drilling into it for holes for clips or holes for armrests.
Exposing the pressed paper to water infiltration.

They also describe it as being up to the OEM specifications .

After all the years I have spent in wrecking yards scouting and scouring for parts and seeing plenty of swollen water logged paper door panels all I can say is no thanks to that.

I built my interior panels with 1/8” ABS for my RPU. Properly secured with push clips and I have no need or desire to sew through it.
I’ll use glue to secure the upholstery.

 

I have a lifetime spool of clear thread. You can sew any color and look good that way. Foam is a whole other story. I found that Miami Corp in Cincinasty has some good dense foam. Stay out of places like Jo Anne fabrics. SMS will send samples from the library of anything you like from decades of auto fabrics. Lucky needle has great how to videos. I can’t find a making pencil or pen yet that works well. I find clear plastic on a large area is hard to work with and lighting is now my problem. I use a large tank desk for a table and use the drawers to keep the area clean of tools and such. Get a list of the tools you will need. Clamps, hog ring pliers, adhesive, welt foots, ext. this is as far I have gotten and just sewed up a few things that look like shit but learned from my mistakes.


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The panel board is waterproof I’m pretty sure. Next tim you are in Lowe’s goto the hardware section. In the automotive drawers they have interior stuff. I call them pegs? Anyway they clip of pop into place from behind the panel.


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@K13 what did he recommend for needles as his is a amazing trimmer and makes impossible tasks look easy.
@-Brent- there are a number of fasteners I use or used and the ones I like are the metal spring clips and buttons. I have used the Christmas tree plastic types and use them in certain places . The problem I found with them is the hole has to be dead-nuts on all of them or the teeth get distorted . It can be changed but if its imbedded into materials like foam or your upholstery not that easy. Plus you should use a panel clip tool to remove or separate the panel from the item.

 

These are the clips I’m using for my ABS panels
The clips are Ford panel clips

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Door_Trim_Panel_Fastener_Ford_p/a10780.htm

You can see that they slip into the 1/8" ABS plastic panels through a 1/2" hole placed so that the pointed part lines up with the 17/64" holes for mounting the panel.

You will notice that once I had the panel popped into place I marked the clips location and removed the panel.
I then riveted them in place to the panel with short 1/8"pop rivets.
That keeps them in place and make it a whole lot easier to line up the panel clips with the holes and then give the panel a smack with your hand at each clip to pop it into place.

I'm going to stitch up some vinyl the same material as my seats are done in and with the same 2" pleats.
Probably a combo of some pleats and some smooth sections once I figure a pattern out.
A thin layer of upholstery smoothing foam and then fold the vinyl over the panel edges and secure with a good upholstery glue like Dap weldwood high heat.

 

@wfo guy thats a great list of suppliers and use many of them and will use a few you recommended .
I wish waterproof panel board was more available and shipping cost wasn’t so high. I feel the panel board is excellent and works great because you can sew thru it and great for doing sculptured door panels like fancy 32 ford with the beaded parameter. I use 1/8 luan panel board with good results and its cheap at 12 bucks a 4x8 sheet. It can be found at some hardware stores like homedepot . You can find it in were they sell cabinet making supplies. What I experienced with the abs is the glue doesn’t stick as well if you dont scuff the surfaces and staples sometimes dont go thru.
@Blue One thanks for the clip and fasteners links some good prices on nutserts

 

Are the 1/16" ABS panels really stiff enough to hold up? I was thinking the 1/8" was thin until I see some have used 1/16". I don't have experience with either. My current car has the bathroom hardboard (Masonite) panels, with the colored/coated side turned to the door cavity to keep moisture warpage to a minimum.

My next project will probably use ABS so I'm soaking up all this advice. I usually like the steel spring clips like Blue One shows.

 

Do you guys use router tables and other woodworking type tools? I have a limited woodworking tool set, so I was curious if I should invest.

 

Dang man, you're going all in! Knowing your character and attention to detail you could have a lucrative business ahead of you...

 

I had a low doller drafting table already,that also folded up,thinking that I like the way it stored a way in a small space when not being used. I cut a hole in it for my yardsale Kenmore Sear's,that also stores in its own box. Never have stored it back a-way.
Old rolling office chair is also very handy,vs a chair that dose not roll.
Foot speed control is hiding in photo kind of under chair.
Picking another folding table up at yard sale can be $saver too as extra sild space.
Turned out I just leave it set up in a corner though now,too do odd house jobs ,like pillow covers ect. For big stuff,I put up a folding card table as needed for more side room.. It's very much EZer to work,if what your sewing slides around.
Tricks here;https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-sew-at-home-upholsrety-hot-rod.604077/

 

One thing that requires practice and is very important is the ability to sew a straight line. I bought the cheapest vinyl I could at Perfect Fit along with a big roll of muslin backed foam (probably a lifetime supply). I then sewed many small panels of pleated material on the foam. My machine cam with a welting foot, so I also made a supply of welt and sewed it around my practice panels. I marked everything with sharpened chalk. When I felt fairly competent I made a practice seat cover for my Model A seat. I don't think it came out too bad and it gave me experience with sewing a cover to fit around obstacles. I used a bit too much glue on the upper part ad left it lumpy, but that's a good learning experience.

 

3 different depths for different thicknesses you are going into. You will need a hole the size of a pencil to pop it into. If you must use a plastic clip, use the one`s in the bottom left corner. You can change them out if they get damaged, and they will.

 

Subscribed! My wife started an auto trim business about a year ago. Things are going well for her. we have turned out several nice looking jobs. She uses a Juki 1541-S machine with the Sewquiet 6000 servo motor. We replaced the clutch motor with the servo motor a couple of years ago and it made a world of difference with control. A good stapler and a steamer are good tools to have also. She uses mostly #92 UV resistant Nylon thread.

 

Following. For you that have been doing this awhile I ask - is a walking foot machine an absolute necessity or just a nice to have?

 

Here is a couple of pics of our model A coupe we did.


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No not absolute necessity: Nice though if you can get one!
Here is how too do with out a factory walking foot. one, but just a slipper foot house wife type;
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-sew-at-home-upholsrety-hot-rod.604077/
After I make a note,I often see many do not use a link I put in!, that can help. I never know if that's do to my note not telling enough,or just they missed the link completely?

 

What kind of stapler are we talking about?