Hot Rods Hanging pedals in hot rods, 1960-62 C10 M/C

I used Lucky's set-up, which is absolutely beefy. Overkill, probably.

To remove any flex, I added a firewall stiffner and tied in braces from the pedals to my dash bar.

 

Sorry brother, I got nothing.

 

I give up!

 

My buddy has a real nice 34 Cabriolet and he used the Wilwood pedal and cylinder assembly. He recently updated as the original pedals he had were quite small and Wilwood now makes an assembly with larger pedals. I made my own assembly for my 28 sport coupe. Because of space restrictions I had to have the pedal offset from the master cylinder. The only thing I bought was the Corvette style master cylinder, the pedal pad, and a brake light switch.

 

Sorry @krylon32 , I missed that last sentence. That makes sense. That's what I needed to know. I didn't pick up on that because I had found this pic on the web and it looked like it was mounted on the firewall, so.........



I found this in one of the old posts, which is interesting.
@deucemac
I used an International dual master cylinder, much like the Chevy/GMC except for 4 mounting holes and no need to reverse the guts because it mounts in the normal way.

They don't look to be very cheap though. I'll have to take mine apart to polish and chrome so, cheaper is better for me.
https://oldinternationaltrucks.com/parts-store/brakes/master-cylinder-34-and-1-ton/

 

Chris , I went through this several years ago... You can just swap the guts left to right, Or look for an International Harvester master which is the same but has the residual valve in the correct location for firewall mounting. By the way , the chevy unit works perfectly for under the floor installation as it is reversed. Also the 60 -62 Chevy truck bellhousing places the clutch fork on the pass side which solves a ton of clearance issues on early Fords.

 

It won't be under the floor. It's going to be on the firewall. I already have the bellhousing, you know which bellhousing I have. It's for the Caddy.

 

I never swapped anything as I used the stock pedal assembly. Gonna have to take a look under the dash in the morning

 

I built my own based on a style that Rotten Leonard made or makes. Pretty slick. He had or has the assembly on his web site. Used the same MC and switched sides.

 

Hey Chris...I have a 60 C10 that I am parting out as well as a 62 GMC that is likely the same at home with this setup if that helps you with any of this...

Edit: I just looked through some pics I have of the GMC and it is even power brakes to help make it more confusing.

 

That's the ticket....

 

Their easy to bush down it's the finding of the rite size gut's to put in that is the difficult part depending on size needed. Nother words your limited to what size rubber, springs and plungers are out there to reduce the 1 1/8" bore and guts...................

 

root, you need to see the stock chevy pedal assembly to understand the crisscross reasoning. i can't find a photo of one. maybe someone else can help with that?

 

I wanted to use an Ansen hanging pedal assembly in my 32, and like the looks of the Chevy PU unit, but couldn’t get myself to run a single reservoir MC. So I settled on using the old Ford 2 master cylinder designed pedal assembly but replaced the brake cylinder with a dual reservoir kind. I know it’s not as cool looking as having the really old stuff, but once I have the hood top on the car, the old Ford clutch unit kinda hides the dual brake MC. It was actually kinda hard finding a MC that had the ports exiting towards the right since most go towards the left. I ended up using a 68ish AMC M/C.
And I also beefed up the firewall with additional bracing.

 

When we bushed our Chev truck mc down we used rebuild kits from Willwood for the internals

 

Raybestos got us from 1 1/8" to 1", from there it was a modified Willwood rebuild kit!

 

This thread gives me thought on switching my under floor to firewall in my 41 Chevy p/u, to bad that RJays is on backorder for just the brake without clutch.
What's wrong with using the 1 1/8 th master cylinder, I would've swore I just read an article on a mid 60's road race car that said it used that size for some kind of advantage ???

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^It all depends on other "things"! Pedal ratio, mathematical volume of front & rear brake calipers or wheel cylinders, TO NAME A FEW. If you can't tell Willwood the specs and size of those basic parts they can't get off the phone fast enough. If you do know those specs they can give you a close ball park on master cylinder bore size. I have seen some of your threads and I can tell that if you had the plans or drawings (CAD) of a swinging firewall mounted pedal ass. you could build it yourself especially if all you need is the brake side. Yes, RJay's and other have it priced so you think why should I build one when I can just buy it, but if it's not available build it yourself! Anyone have a CAD layout for one to down load?

 

here ya go
Vintage Hanging Pedals - Excellent Shape | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

Here's a post with some details about what we did for the pedals and bracing in my coupe.

 

That looks nice Brent.

 

I'm liking the forward planning on the brake light switch.....
plus the depress clutch to start option

 

“Would have” as in past tense as in he currently doesn’t! Did something happen to Old Wolf!?


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He has not been here for a while. If I remember right he got a little bit off topic about social events.

 

That off topic stuff will get you every time! [emoji6]. Hope he is okay other wise.


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The reason the clutch master cylinder is on the right is the clutch pedal was fastened to the shaft the brake pedal bushing pivoted on with the lever for the clutch master cylinder to the right of the brake pedal. Contrary to popular opinion The cups and seals for both sides are the same and do not need to be changed from side to side. The left one has a residual check valve for the brakes, and the right one doesn't. But the check valve is in the fitting where the brake line attaches. There is a brass insert on the port for the inverted flare on the brake line. Insert a screw into the insert, and lever it out. The residual check valve is the rubber behind it. You can remove it, and tap the insert back in place. Now either side will work for the clutch. If you are going to use drum brakes all the way around, insert a 10 psi remote check valve in the line down at the frame before the line splits to the front and rear, and you are golden. If you are using discs front and drum rear, the 10 psi residual valve goes into the line to the rear, with a 2 psi residual valve in the front brake line.

 

I used the Wilwood pedals 6.25:1 ratio. I mounted them to my cowl cage of 1" square tubing. If mounting to firewall, I think a firewall reinforcing plate would be prudent.



The master is the '62 Chevy truck unit. I swapped the internals side to side. Probably 1500 miles on the roadster with no issues.

 

Did the 62 Chevy unit bolt on or did you have to modify the pedals? It’s hard to tell from the picture.


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