Projects I'm 18 and building my first flathead 59AB+merc crank for my chopped 34 4 door sedan

Never run a tap down the head stud holes. It will cut the threads too much and you will always be chasing seeping studs. If you must clean them use a head bolt with a slot cut up the side so only stock Ford-designed threads will clean the gunk. Those head studs and their holes are a tighter tolerance than normal threads so there will be less leaking from the water passages.

 

Some just take a bolt and cut a grove the length of the threads for a thread chaser. The grove catches all the gerdoo that is loosened up when you thread the bolt into the hole but doesn't enlarge the threads.

 

Does anyone have any tips for removing deep broken head bolts? There is one that it broken off in the block of the 59L pretty far down that I just noticed...

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

How far down? Do you have enough threads , say 3 or 4 showing before the broken bolt?

 

if your good with an Oxy-Act torch you can burn through it, or if you have axcess to a Magnetic drill you can drill through it, I have one if you need it.........Carl

 

Use a head to center the drill over the hole, then some reducing guides to allow a small bit, then drill through it. Start small and make sure you are not going crooked. Some guys have success using a reverse drill bit when you get about 1/4" diameter or so, and it might snag the remains and back it out of the hole. Otherwise just drill till you are real close to the threads and use a pick to remove them.

 

Install a head (this will center a hili coil drill), drill the bolt out remove the head install a heli coil threads .

 

Why use a band aid (helicoil) when he can do it the right way?

 

Does anyone have any recommendations for a cam? I'm going to be running 4 inch stroke and 3 3/8 pistons?

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

give PeteOne a call at D&L AutoMachine 306-569-2656 Explain just what ya want and have him grind ya one, he won't steer ya wrong.............

 

Great suggestion

 

Ok.... I don't know if I have a flathead magnet in my back pocket or something because I just picked up a 59 AB that is standard bore that turns over. My question is would it be better to start with this 59 AB motor instead of my 59 L that needs at least 2 sleeves and is at 3 3/8 or is it really that beneficial to have the stronger block? Any opinions would be appreciated

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Not a bad magnet to have.

 

Go with the better engine,,,,,,it will probably be less trouble at the moment .
You can always repair and rebuild the other at a future date when you have more experience .
Tommy

 

Make sure you are fully aware of the crack situation with both engines before making your decision. I would at least pressure test both blocks.

 

You don't have to spend almost $300 dollars for a standard leak testing kit. I made my own to do it on an 8BA. You use the stock heads bolted on properly with a good set of gaskets. On mine, I made a plate that bolted on the thermostat housing with a "Tee", feeding a pressure gauge and a Schrader valve. I had two options for the water pump outlets. For the first I found some vinyl "cups (for want of a better word) that fit over the hose outlets secured with a good gear drive hose clamp. I put my air hose on the Schrader valve and gave it about 10 lbs pressure. Usually that was enough if the water pump had good seals. If it didn't, I had a block-off plate that I bolted on in place of the water pump. The first plate I made was 1/4" aluminum and flexed enough to leak. Either use 1/4" steel or 1/2" aluminum.

An early engine would be different. I would find a vinyl "cup" for the water outlet on the head and clamp it down well. The water pump would have to be removed and a plate (with the "Tee" gauge, and Schrader valve installed), and away you go.

 

Thank you that's super helpful!

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm going to have to agree with you at the prices I keep finding this stuff[emoji23]

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Drill a 1/8th hole through bolt first. It’s too easy to get broken bolts out this way so long as they are not in blind holes.

 

KiWi-L100 would be a great choice.

 

Got the 4 door out so I can start fixing the rot in the body. I also picked up a lasalle grill that I think would look really cool as a track nose. The rear end set up is kinda wacky with the parallel leaves sticking super far out but when they extended the frame they didn't butcher it at all so it should be reversible. It also already has a 40 ford rear cross member. I'll be putting a 40 ford rear in it that I picked up that was supposedly frozen but it spun free and really nice as soon as I got it home[emoji2962].

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Jesse, that body looks to be in good shape but we all know that internet pictures can hide small imperfections. I don't know about the Lasalle grille but it is your car, your vision.

 

I like where its going!

 

Got some tape, a radiator, a jack, and the grille setup to give myself an idea about how it would look.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You can get a much better vision of what it can look like if you post a request on the photoshop thread of what you're thinking of doing. Those guys are magicians and are always willing to help a fellow hot rodder see what something will look like without a lot of work and expense to discover that their idea is not a great idea and was just a brain fart!
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...p-thread-to-end-all-photoshop-threads.300531/

 

Once the springs are removed the frame extensions look a little like wheelie bar skids...
for the grill i would have jumped for a '35 truck, that is before they turned to gold !
check out a '34-'37 international grill...pix

 

If that 59ab turns I'd drop the pan, pull the heads, make sure all the valves are moving, clean the oil pump pickup and just run it. Dont over complicate it by pulling it all apart. Just reseal it and run it. Then build another engine later if you want. That engine thats already at 3-3/8 dont even fuck with it right now if your new to these. If you wanna build like a 304 stroker its good but to get the car rolling just use the other engine. Seriously.

 

That's what I was planning to do the 59ab seems nice in the cylinders and all the valves move decently, I just need to drop the pan when I get a chance to make sure there is no issues there.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What water pumps would you guys recommend running on a 59ab in 34 ford? Out of all the parts I've picked up those are the only major piece I'm missing.

Sent from my SM-J727V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Enjoying this any updayes?