Projects 1940 ford coupe build

Regarding the clutch issue, There are a zillion ways to do it...
My '39 Coupe was modified in the '60's with some sort of swing pedal configuration of unknown origin. It had an F-100 set up in it, it worked, so I retained it. I'm using an F-100 master/slave set-up with mounting brackets of my own design. (The mount that it had on it was a flame cut hunk of steel that looked horrible)
The car has a '63 SBC and a Muncie 4-speed. (Soon to be a Tremec) The brackets mount to the threaded bosses on the block. The master mounts next to the brake master on the firewall. It works flawlessly and if I need repair / replacement parts, I can get them from NAPA.

 

looks like a solid hydro set up.

 

Yeah, I do tend to over-build stuff... German heritage... I did re-enforce the front strap with a length of angle iron after the first few times out. It bowed a little, but now it's fine.

 

Nice build and some great information

 

Your doing a great job!

 

newredporch, Thank you for taking on a major Project and sharing your Adventures!
Definitely not for the feint of Heart. But you are getting it Done, and Well Done!
For a hydraulic clutch set up, I have used two brake pedals on the 39-40 shaft. The pedals are steel and you an heat them to tweak the right angle.
I use the straight brake pedal for the clutch. This gives you two push shafts out the back. Then you can use a dual bore master cylinder like on the early 60s Chevy pickups or bolt a plate to the 3 bolt cylinder mount that will let you mount a two stage Master Cylinder for disk-drum brakes and a separate Clutch Master Cylinder.
I have also used the early 60s Pickup Bell housing that mounts the Slave Cylinder on the passenger side. This opens up the drivers side for steering and exhaust.
I've used the dual bore pickup MC on the Coupe in my Avatar since it went on the road in 86. It has disk brakes all around, so there is no residual valve in the brake side.
Thanks for Sharing!
Tinker

 

Sandblasted the back half and started boxing the rear rails.

 

Good info! I have a mechanical set up that is almost ready to go. More on that later.

 

Three Pedal Cars are Just FUN.
The frame is coming along nicely!
Keep on Posting. Thanks
Tinker

 

geoford41 has a pair on the HAMB classifieds posted on 11-19-29.
Tinker

 

I’d like to thank Gary (40ragtopdown). He is a member and sells these cross members here on the Hamb. Good price, nice fit, quality part and he’s a nice guy. It sure did speed things up for my project.

 

Nice parts. I agree, Gary is a good guy!

 

mine from chassis eng. 1941 ford pickup build.

 

Moving along with the rear frame

 

Details......

 

The posies spring kit says that the frame should be “C” notched. I feel like there is enough travel without. Does anyone have some real life experience on this?

 

That looks like a lot of travel. I have the CE kit and started with about the same and added lowering blocks. Not on the road yet. For comparison I have only 2 inches of travel on my 47 and it hits bump stops rarely mostly going over large bumps at highway speeds or crossing dips like drainage gutters. With 3 inches I'd probably never hit. I would not c notch with that much room. Dont forget the weight of the body will bring it down a lot but I bet you still will have over 3 inches.

Sent from my SM-A102U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

This picture shows it hanging. When it was sitting on its wheels, it still looked ok to me. My model A used to hit hard at times and I hate that. I might just notch it to be sure. I dunno

 

I have overload bump stops on my 40 with CE rear springs. I believe that I bought them from Eaton Spring but that has been several years ago. I have been pleased with their function.

 

Have that kit in my '39 convertible. If you have the springs in the lower bolt hole (front mount) you will not need to C-notch the frame. I have never hit the bump stops with my car.

 

Thanks for the info. Not sure which hole I mocked mine up on. At that point in time I wasn’t even thinking about a notch.

 

I think your car will sit like a four-wheeler unless you do something to get it lower. Years ago our 40 coupe had about an inch before it hit the rubber bumpers in the back. That stance looked about right to me. If we had it to do over again I'm sure we would have C notched the frame for a bit more clearance.

Actually, on a car like a 40 where nobody will see the frame rail, a squareish notch might be better so you could still mount a rubber bumper up in there.

 

I have the standard CE rear spring kit on my 40 with 2 inch blocks and have no issues. Car sits nice.

 

I think I’m gonna notch it

 

I'd like to echo what "newredporch" stated regarding Gary (40ragtopdown).
I purchased the center crossmember kit that he manufactures for my 1940 Ford pickup project. I also purchased his rear leaf spring kit. High quality, cost effective, and Gary was always available to answer any questions. Very cordial, patient, friendly, a nice guy.

 

After a full day of welding, I think I am pretty much done. Weather permitting, I will get it blasted and ready for primer this week.

 

I like reading along on your build. I have nearly the same CE set up in back as you on my 41 PU. Installed inside the frame up front and in the frame in back like you did. I installed bump stops that you can see here barely.

This is the profile after driving with no lowering blocks and close to weight. The only thing missing is bumpers and bed wood in back. I am quite a ways off the bump stops still. I think you will be fine.

 

I think you are right. If I have to notch it later, I will. For now I think I will leave it alone.
Thanks for your help! Happy building.

 

Hey Red, I have the same Posie rear suspension kit in my coupe, set to the lower setting at the front perch (upper bolt hole). I wish I had notched the frame when I had the chance, because I do bottom out with bad dumps. The ride and handling is better than my experience with CE rear kits (no need for lowing blocks). Perhaps the PU are lighter at the rear to where the notch won't be needed. Good luck, nice looking project.

 

good real world info. Maybe I should hack into it before I paint it. It would probably gain me 1” of travel.