Thank you guys, I can’t take all the credit. I ask for a lot of advice from my more talented friends ! Without their wisdom I’d be screwing everything up , heck I still do. I do have some updates to post soon just need to get a few more things together
Now on to this. I had gotten a 34 torque tube and driveshaft that had been cut down for a 32 . The job looked nice but I will most likely need to shorten it more, or adjust the hangers depending on wheelbase, spring location etc, so I put in the drivetrain to see where I’m at with and without fenders. With my car shoved in my tight workspace, and rain outside I started bolting stuff to the motor.
Even though my seat is out right now I started making my throttle pedal . I chopped up and flipped around a spoon pedal. It took about 2 days of tinkering to get my throw ratios worked out through trial error and plenty of heat . When I was younger I hoarded away a stash of linkages . Came in pretty handy. Also worked on the toe board.
Now that that was done I moved on to the cooling. I got a zips water pump riser at a swap meet when we still had those, and it has a bracket for an alternator, but I have a nice generator that fits my motor so I made some spacers and mounted that, then got some hoses figured out. Now everything is on the drivers side and the breather tube gets in the way so I made a little joggle. I also made my drag link to length but I still need to finish welding that.
Nice metal fab, the thing is a work of art... you are making a great how-to for future HAMB rod projects... that throttle reversal works great... wish i had dropped the '32 and did the cutting on a '33-'34 or the long pedal throttles...
No, '32 is a single year pedal... the other throttle pedals are more common/cheaper... I see you used a '32 also, [hand throttle linkage ball].
I see. Mine was a 4cyl pedal that was pretty frozen solid. It took some heat and work to free the shaft and the tube was no good. it took a couple of pedals to make mine so I don’t feel terribly guilty haha
Well I finally got the opportunity to roll it outside and take a look. I have to say I’m super happy with the wheelbase and how it sits in the fenders,and without them too. I do not think I will need to alter the torque tube. I need to change the spline on the driveshaft and take them both to a local place that repairs heavy equipment and driveshafts to check for balance and straightness. Was a really great day seeing it out in the air.
The cats out of the bag on the gauges. All the 2-1/16 Stewart Warner’s are 12v and NOS , the speedo and tach are large logo. It was a challenge getting these together. I tried to find earlier gauges that show nicely but I couldn’t at any price. I had a new facia cut on a water jet from polished stainless. I still had to clearance most holes on the backer plate and the new facia. Next I made retainers to rear mount them. I’m not nearly done at all, there’s still some things I’m working on to complete the dash . It’s been a very challenging and fun departure so far.
Damn that interior is looking great! I look forward to running into this car when I make the trip over the cascades to Portland shows. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Your fabrication work is amazing. Nice clean work. Following along a real craftsman like yourself "ups" the game for all of us.
A little update, I’ve been working on it here and there. Mostly I’m home because my kid can’t go to school and my shop is across town. Strange times. Anyway when I started this project I always wanted a cadillac instrument panel like the pic, so I incorporated the things I liked about it. Map lights, and the sunburst graphic. I’ll just say there was an insane amount of difficulty to get to this point but I’m starting to see the light ! the glovebox knobs are 32 Lincoln, so now I’m machining the rest of the knobs to match.
The Jalopy Journal
