Technical The Devil Is In The Details

Did you ever have a day where you caught...ALL the fish???

Yeah... 'Music to dick HEAD to'.

 

Factory Bel Air heater control either
cuts off heat valve internally or
works heat blending door. I can’t remember as its been a few years since I crawled under dash.

At any rate, splicing in another cutoff
is unnecessary.

As to comments concerning 6 cylinder location. SBC w/long water pump and
V8 radiator location works fine.

My electric fan is in front of radiator.

 

Exactly

 

Short water pump costs more if you also need the correct pullies, alt bracket, power steering brackets etc.
Not easy to find in the junkyard anymore.

 

Yup. That’s becoming more and more prevalent. Hot rodders have become fussier and even less tolerant than the ‘tiquers we used to mock.


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jimmy six,

Most cars I look at are advertised
$ 40-50 K. This ‘55 prolly falls in this
range.

Pic is 3 months old. I save it as an
example of to make a complete mess !

Nice ‘56

 

Short water pump also
flows less water, I’m told

 

Forgot about this.....

 

I don't get the point of this thread.
Bitching about a car you have not bought?

If you don't like the car for the money or can't fix what you don't like, don't buy it.
Apparently so far you haven't bought it, so you've lost nothing, haven't been screwed...move on.

 

Not if it was a V8 car it already had them, why would you need a junkyard you can still buy short water pump new form Speedway any form $84.00 to 115.00 steel and they also sell serval varieties of short water pump aluminum pullies for oval track racing.

The short water pump was used from 1955 until a least the late 1960's I am sure there are lot of them kicking around guy's garages


Plus what is the price of a new radiator with mounts to work with the long pump?

 

Glad your not looking at my junk. I have a couple of friends like you. Everything has it's place , could eat off the garage floor. I build them and I drive them. I have a hell of a lot more fun than they do.
Why looking at 40 - 50k cars? You could build the perfect car for you for a lot less. The right hoses and clamps, etc.

 

One more thing, you don't know what a ground strap looks like or a ahooga horn?

 

......and this

 

Off topic but interesting point. A ‘55 Chevrolet or GTO/SS 396 project seems to be $15-20k, add
$5-8k. bodywork
$15-18k. Paint
$18k. Drivetrain
$10-12k. Interior
$6k. Wiring, chrome, wheels tires, suspension

If one has the skill level and facilities to accomplish all of the above on his own, the cost is the same as he could have been working on others’ cars for $’s.



Disclaimer: ahooga Horn not included in above pricing !

 

So you want a 100k car for 50k and bitch because they didn't build it to your specs. If a wrong battery bothers you , you have a major problem.
A lot more things wrong in the world. Get over it.

 

I think it's the other way around. Cheaper to find a complete solid done car (close in color and trim) and undo what isn't correct to one's liking as for this forum and or era that vehicle came from.

 

Aesthetically, I don't see a whole lot that couldn't be fixed in short order, like a day or two. It's ain't Hamb style, but it could be easily enough.

 

If the body and paint is good, everything else is an easy fix. I’d rather wrench on stuff than welding in new panels and fixing rust.


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1 : a fair return in goods, services, or money for something exchanged. 2 : worth in money. 3 : worth, usefulness, or importance in comparison with something else The letter is of greathistorical value. 4 : a principle or quality that is valuable or desirable They shared many goals and values.


Is your definition of “value” the sum
of seller’s receipts, or does market
determine value ?

I’m reminded of tax office definition which is “ price reached between a willing buyer and willing seller, neither
being pressured to buy or sell”

Have a Blessed day !

 

OK, you have beat this dead horse enough. Look at any other cars that you want to post pictures of? I suppose that I could post pictures of mine that you could critic. I do not have any sirens hung from the wrong brackets but I do use split loom wiring harnesses and nylon ties at times.

 

How much does he want for it? What's so bad about it? Needs a little cleaning up. Depends how much the seller wants for it..

 

It just needs a big old greasy Mopar under the hood then all would be right! Value would go through the roof.

 

Don't see anything there that I would worry about. If I couldn't fix it all on a Saturday morning, I'd quit.

 

Snip snip snip

Yes, it's a bit sloppy... but what's with all of the assumptions? Did you ask the owner any questions?

Appears to be very mild? A serious intake, aluminum heads and decent looking headers... it could be a very warm small block.

The lack of a vacuum line doesn't mean a locked distributor - it just means no vacuum advance. And while I prefer Holley's it's not the only carburetor that makes horsepower...

Need way more info before it's worthy of being torn apart sight unseen.

 

^ That's the best thing in this thread!

 

I would drive it and fix it as you go!

 

Why not post photos of your own car for us to critique ?

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Most of cars I look at seem to
fall between $40-50 K. At least
3 month (pic dated Dec 10)
old listing, I don’t remember
actual price.

 

I'm going to say that is exactly what Jenkins Competition is looking at, With that many cobble jobs on it what about the things you can't see.
I can forgive the RV/Boat battery = Simple as either the seller kept the correct battery for another vehicle or the correct battery crapped out in the past couple of weeks and that was what was in the garage.
Cobbled together battery ends and the welding cable running to the "Bat" post on the alternator, That is just crude on a tri 5 that isn't a daily driver beater.

Airgap intake and a carb that doesn't quite jive, Well maybe the dude is only a pretend racer or has bad advice at the spit and whittle club. MSD setup on a mild engine= doesn't everyone just to have a MSD ignition on their small block no matter how mild. Reading other guys on board's posts in other threads makes that seem so.

Ahooga horn, = FNG to the old car hobby. Saw a thread somewhere yesterday asking where the correct place to mount an Ahooga horn on a T bucket was. Pretty damned lame but not a deal killer and it can go in the swap meet box.

Plug wires run wrong= No damned excuse for that.

Flex radiator hose= unless it can be written off to an emergency purchase on a road trip that is just flat wrong. No effort made to do it right.

Shut off valve in the heater hose, been there done that because no matter what I tried the heater still put out heat when it was 100 degrees outside.

T shift handle upside down. the Hurst name probably ate the guys hand. I used to drive a rig that a buddy owned that had one of those in it quite a bit and decided I would never have one in any car of mine no matter how many bubba points they are worth. Still looks lame though.

All in all too many little red flags that any one alone wouldn't be an issue but combined you start wondering what the big issues might be and how much bondo is under the paint and what was used to patch the floor boards. True all of those issues won't cost 500 to make right and maybe way less than that but unless the purchase price reflects the fact that it has those issues and maybe more it would be no deal.