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1952-59 Ford shaving handles on our cars

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Roothawg, Mar 10, 2021.

  1. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    Anyone done it? You guys using stock latches or a bear claw style? Not much out on the old internet....

    I was going to run stock latches but mine are pretty worn.
     
  2. Dos Cincos
    Joined: May 13, 2011
    Posts: 943

    Dos Cincos
    Member

    I'll be watching this. I plan to swap to Lincoln door ****ons like you did and just keep my stock latches.
     
  3. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    I am abandoning the Lincoln ****ons. I don't like the way they laid down. The contour with the frenched panels are too flat. Mine may be for sale soon.
     
  4. 50sboy
    Joined: Jan 28, 2010
    Posts: 372

    50sboy
    Member

    going for t-bird handles...
     
    Black Wagoon and abe lugo like this.
  5. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    I was just wondering if the bear claw style is worth all of the extra effort?
     
  6. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,965

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I used repro latches on my Sunliner, they work fine. I like door handles.
     
    guthriesmith likes this.
  7. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,582

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    I'm going with Lincoln pbs!
     
  8. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
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    I put bear claw latches and shaved the door handles on my 56.
    I was told by the body man that with a Ford, you can't use the outside handle with bear claws. I used a Dakota Digital remote entry kit which worked for a few weeks and then quit, I haven't trouble shooted it yet, I always leave the wings unlocked. With the DD kit there is a bulge on the inside of the door panel but it's not too noticeable, you can see the wavy line at the bottom of the white at the rear where the bulge is. With the door closed, you won't even see it.

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    [​IMG]
     
    Kustomline54 likes this.
  9. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    That looks pretty good. How involved was the install? Looks almost factory.
     
  10. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
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    I had it done at a body shop so I'm not sure how hard it was.
     
  11. 50sboy
    Joined: Jan 28, 2010
    Posts: 372

    50sboy
    Member

    With the bear jaw latch, do they really close easier - quieter??
     
  12. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    It’s a double locking latch, so I would think it would be more secure.
     
  13. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
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    Yes they do, so much easier and nicer than stock.
     
  14. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 17,401

    jimmy six
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    Nice looking Victoria and upholstery..A question? How come you left the side emblems on and removed the handles. I would have thought handle removal goes along with nosing, decking, and emblem hole filling.
     
  15. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    Do you remember if you used the full size latches or the slimline versions? There used to just be a couple of options, now there are tons.
     
  16. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 65,331

    HOTRODPRIMER
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    Root, From experience when everything was going slice in the 80's and 90's I built a Model A pickup and did away with the door handles and a 1939 Ford convertible without door handles, I would NEVER even consider it again.

    But if you insist, I used bear claws and with the convertible I used a remote magnetic switch at the bottom of the drivers door (A stupid place to mount it in retrospect) and it rolled down the power window, (Another stupid thing was adding power window).

    The Model A I used the small bear claw type latch from a junk yard car and it to had caprice power window motors & modified window mechanisms, I didn't get as exotic with the Model A, I had two small push ****ons under the visor, one on each side.

    Word of warning, if you do decide to remove your door handles make sure you have a emergency wire somewhere it's easy to get to if the battery dies, mine did and I had to resort to using a big rock to gain access in one hell of a thunder storm. :( :eek: :mad: :rolleyes:HRP
     
  17. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

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    I am definitely shaving the handles. I will have a back up cable.

    Not to be hateful, but why not just jump the battery? I can access the battery via the outside hood latch. I always figured what is the chances of both locks going south at the same time was slim.
     
  18. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 65,331

    HOTRODPRIMER
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    The battery was under the seat & it was dead, I couldn't get in and with the slick look I had a remote hood release inside the cab. HRP
     
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  19. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

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    Ahhhhhhhh........I always have remote jumper cable terminals. It's just for my convenience.
     
  20. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 65,331

    HOTRODPRIMER
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    We all march too - well you know, For me I just like the KISS method of building hot rods. HRP
     
  21. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    I started down that path, but this one is gonna be a custom and door handles just look out of place.
     
    Dos Cincos likes this.
  22. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

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    Thanks, I like the trim on the car, the only reason I removed the handles is because they no longer worked.
     
    jimmy six likes this.
  23. the-stig
    Joined: Jun 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,531

    the-stig
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    I'm pretty sure I used the medium latch, I bought them from Rocky Hinge Inc. The parts I used are; Medium Bear Claw Latches, Bear Claw Latch Installation Kit and Latch Lever Kit (I think I could have done without the latch lever kit $85). Total cost about $180.
    I also added a Dakota Digital 4-Function Remote Entry Kits CMD-4001, about $185 so about $365 with the other parts plus labor.
    I could have saved some money by buying everything from Rocky Hinge but at the time I didn't know I was going to go with electric openers. I found out from the body man that I had no option.
     
  24. qicvick
    Joined: Apr 21, 2010
    Posts: 58

    qicvick
    Member

    I’m using stock latches but may upgrade to to bearclaw
     

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  25. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 12,597

    guthriesmith
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    Chris, speaking of back up cables, wondered if you ever noticed the way they were set up on the Buick I picked up yesterday? Pretty slick setup that works and is out of site... Only thing is they aren't backup and the only way into that car other than leaving a wing window unlocked I suppose. That somewhat goes to Danny's thought of KISS. I may do basically the same on Silas's pu. I hear that solenoids aren't near as reliable as folks would like.
     
  26. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    If I did, I don't remember...
     
  27. nosford
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    nosford
    Member

    Maybe off topic but I had a buddy that was using his brothers car when he came home for leave. He drove up to joint base Lewis McCord to pick something up he needed and they would not let the car on base with no door handles, said it was a safety issue. Weird!
     
  28. 50sboy
    Joined: Jan 28, 2010
    Posts: 372

    50sboy
    Member

    That is weird. I was at Fort Lewis in 1970 for basic training and they took my handles Off!!
     
  29. nosford
    Joined: Feb 7, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    nosford
    Member

    If you remember 1970 you didn't do it right, just sayin!
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  30. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 26,275

    Roothawg
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    Still undecided on what the right way to go is.
     

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