I literally looked for 10 mins for a 7/16” and then saw an 11mm flash before me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Starter body flipped... looks like the Swiss flag! Ready for more coats... Started re-assembly... what a nightmare! Using the 3 P’s technique. Plenty’o 1. Patience 2. Pins 3. Profanity I gave up last night. I had 3 brushings over the commutator and the last was just cocked... I slowly tried to raise the assembly and everything went tits up. Back at it today. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Plugs came in... one step closer... need to look up the torque specs. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I used pins to pull back the springs, then completely pulled out the brushings on 2 sides and installed them through the hole while pulling the spring out the way
12mm gasket seat... In aluminum heads... so I went with 15 ft/lbs. I test fit the plug cables on the old distributor following the correct firing order. I will need the Oil fill tube correct?
This is a great little book...Will be getting my alternator from him and using an internal ballast coil. What Electronic ignition works well with this set up? Will change to 12 volt system so a bunch of changes going on there...
This is my steering linkage... I’m going with cross steer. My question is what happens to the hook on the drivers side that on the passenger side goes in the hole with a castle nut I assume? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Unless you want to spend a bunch of money on screw in ball studs to use that Model A tie rod, just get a new tie rod and new drag link with later style ends and be done with it. I would shelve the Model A stuff for another project; I don't think the hook (which is indeed the steering arm for the Model A, similar to a F1 setup) will be of any use to you.
Back to starters, actually the shaft on the starter drive should be clean and dry, not oiled. Oil will collect dirt and eventually the drive will stick
Clean and dry is all i can say. maybe in your case, just wipe it down with paper towel, that would leave some level of rust protection as opposed to washing it with a solvent.
This is all just catalog parts and an original 35-48 Ford cross steer box. My particular setup is a So-Cal dropped axle with some stainless drop arms with tie rod and drag link I ordered from Speedway off the measurements once I set the car up. My tie rod is stainless but the drag link is just painted steel. You can order them as kits: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-Tie-Rod-Drag-Link-Kit-with-11-16-Tie-Rod-Ends,3306.html However the last one I put on my AAV8 build, I just ordered the components and saved myself $20 https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...-Rod-Drag-Link-Tubing,27189.html?sku=91634-46 https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Ford-Outer-Tie-Rod-End-11-16-18-RH-Thread,32859.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Ford-Outer-Tie-Rod-End-11-16-18-LH-Thread,6958.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Plain-Steel-Jam-Nut-11-16-18-RH,35642.html https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Plain-Steel-Jam-Nut-11-16-18-LH,35643.html
Sure thing, I hope it was helpful. You can PM me any time if you have questions and I'm subscribed to this thread so I follow along regardless. What do you have for Spindles?
Well if you pulled that Model A tie rod and steering arms off them, put those on the shelf too and just buy some repops from Speedway with the kingpins and bushings installed and reamed to save time and keep it simple. Alternately you could shop around for a nice set of 37 up spindles and recondition them. What are you doing for brakes? https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1304-scroungers-guide-early-ford-spindles/
I should clarify, these are juicers with finned Lincoln covers from a speed shop in Nebraska that fit Ford. They were like 1700 duckets. I need to look at my old posts... All the other stuff is new also... this was the monkey run. When I do the final assembly I'm sure you will chime in.
This is my alternator pulley that was bent... does anyone know the part number off hand? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Sorry for the late response, but yes you are right, I had a sport coupe that was chopped into a roadster for about a week, it just didn’t look right. Haha. Still a fun car but sold it too my buddy because I didn’t have the extra money at the time to buy actual roadster quarters and doors. But I may be buying that car back soon and finally putting correct roadster quarters on it. I may have some pictures if you’d like Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
