Have a Ford rear I bought from a friend for my '28 Mod A frame, said it was Mustang. The metal tag is long gone, unearthed some stamped #s and letters, "WAT", 93T, 928 and 82 Just tryin to find out what it came out of, it's vintage, etc Sent from my SM-N975U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
what does it say right here? It's a relatively early case, it looks like. And it might be pieced together...looks like you're missing brakes?
This is what is I always called a WAR gray iron case . It is early case as stated . It will be fine in an A Model. You will need to remove it to determine bearing size and axle spline while you have them out also . I suspect it’s rather wide for an A Model . Can you get an image of the rear of the housing ? If you plan on replacing it , determine if your housing has a fill plug . If it doesn’t your case will need to have one , already or drill and tap the boss while you have it apart .
I was hoping it might be one of the later style date codes, but no... I don't know what that means. Anyways, you're probably going to have to measure the axle offset and take it apart and look at stuff to figure out what you have, and what parts you need to make it work.
It looks very similar to a nodular iron one with that front pattern. If you remove the 3rd member and look at the case just below the adjuster, there should be a cast in alphanumeric logo. There are some cases that don't have the "N" cast in the front, but are nodular. There are also some that resemble a nodular.......but aren't. If it says WAB-4025A it's not nodular. If it says C4AW-4025-B it is nodular. Does it have a posi ?
I don't think so, friend I got it from wouldve noted it. He had it in an early '70s.Mustang. Sent from my SM-N975U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can find the ratio without disassembly, but you won't really know what you have unless you disassemble it. Since it has no drums, you are going to have to pull the axles sooner or later. Once the axles are out its simply a matter of removing the nuts holding the pumpkin in place. It probably doesn't have the irritating little brass washers if the pumpkin has ever been removed before. Anyway, it's probably worth a looksee before you bolt it into the car. Only cost is for a gasket if everything is ok inside. Maybe give it a good cleaning before reinstalling and get rid of all the old oil. I always weld a homemade drain plug on the bottom of the housings when I take them apart. Makes it a lot easier if you ever have to remove it again.
Magnetic drain plugs are a good idea to trap wear particles. About four bucks https://www.ebay.com/itm/PLUG-DRAIN...800483?hash=item33a3b3c823:g:2M0AAOSwrklVbLE5
There were some of those cases that had “ WAR” cast on them, that were not nodular. I think , anyway. Bones
The 'WA' cases were the first production cases, used from '57 though about '64-65 as the 'base' pumpkin. All had the same 28 spline axles later used in the 8" and nearly all had two-pinion differentials, which was the main weak point. As long as you didn't put one behind a Hi-po big-block and beat the hell out of it and/or use sticky tires, they would do fine. After Ford bumped the FE power up and put better internal parts into the differentials, it was then found they could spit the pinion gear out with case failure. That led to the development of the 'N' case for severe duty which looked nearly identical. Ford then redesigned the 'base' pumpkin into the later familiar single-rib case that was both lighter and stronger than the WA cases but still not as strong as the N case. The limitations of the WA cases is one reason Ford didn't offer the FE in the F100 until '65 even though the motor had been around since '58. If it was pulled out of a '70s Mustang, somebody had swapped it in, it wasn't OEM. 3.56:1 gearing was very common in these in the late '50s, 3.25 and 3.00 in the early '60s. It'll rebuild the same as any other 'standard' Ford 9". Make sure you replace the copper washers under the nuts holding the pumpkin into the housing or you'll have leaks. These washers work-harden when crushed, if re-using them it's best to heat them red-hot then let them cool to re-anneal them for good sealing.
Check width to narrow origins down, is it small bearing (3/8" backing plate bolts) or large bearing (7/16" backing plate bolts) housing?
Those heims look really far out of the tube, make sure those are at least 50% in the tube and look through this site for some clues on what you have. http://www.fordification.com/tech/rearends_ford01.htm
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