Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

The old truck must have had at least three different heaters in its past lives. That's a good looking patch Joel!

 

Guess 99% of hacking up metal is mental laziness. After all these years it´s still hard to accept.

@joel - thx for more than reversing that and combining good ideas with craftmanship!

 

Thanks. I picked the cab off the cart and put it on the work fixture. I'm waiting on some 1" square tube to brace and square the cab .

Had to trim the front wood to let the cab sit where it's supposed to.
Now the question is " what do I do first".

 

True statement. The patch on the dash, repairing the cowl vent operator and the heater mess was the only serious man made problems. Mother Nature did the rest.

Thanks, Sam. I'll be poking this bear on and off this summer, but I'll probably have plenty left for winter.

 

Small update. I received my rebuilt water pumps from Skip Haney yesterday. These are for the 59 that is going in the truck. They look better than new. I'm waiting on some parts for the transmission and the block needs to be cleaned again with new cam bearings installed. Also, I decided to modify the block to provide full oil filtration to every part of the engine except the rear main bearing. I think that is referred to as 85% . I'll probably mount the filter on the firewall. I'll take pictures as I go.

 

Hi Joel, I am curious about your 85% plan, wondering how that works. I will be watching with interest.

 

Since you asked, I got this from Red's and there are other sources. His instructions are for 100% filtration of the oil and it involves 2 areas on the engine. The first is where the 1/4 inch NPT port that the oil pressure sending unit is located.

You can see the small pilot hole above the factory hole. That hole goes into the oil gallery supply line .
The hole closest to the bottom of the pic is the normal port for feeding the oil filter in the stock bypass system. I opened it up with a 7/16 drill to a depth of about 5/8 in past the far edge of the vertical channel (factory). I tapped the hole I just drilled 1/4 NPT. so that I could install a 1/4 in pipe plug with allen socket.
With the plug installed, the normal path from the oil pump to the main gallery is blocked. The side port is still open to the pump and supplies the remote oil filter. The new hole being drilled and tapped 1/4 NPT will be the return from the filter to the main gallery.

The side port is opened to 3/8 NPT partly to allow to get the 1/4 pipe tap to go deep enough and to minimize restriction of floe to the filter.

There is a second modification to the small passage that feeds the rear main bearing only. It involves blocking the normal feed to the rear main and using 1/4 in. tubing to feed filtered oil to the rear main.I don't think I want to do it as it's all done in the area under the half bell. Maybe.

 

I finally got the T 170 transmission back together, as far as the case goes. I couldn't get the main shaft rear snap ring on,so I had to make a leverage tool. It worked so well that I decided to share some pix.
I have a great set of snap ring pliers, but I couldn't spread the ring far enough to get it started even. It wanted to twist and I suppose my grip isn't what it was.
The idea was to keep the snap ring from twisting while holding it square against the concave transition up to the larger dia. of the bearing I.D. I used all-thread and nuts to protect the case threads.
It worked so well that I didn't need the snap ring pliers. After about 1 more turn on the nuts and the snap ring "popped in".

I'm sure there is a tool for this; if not , there should be. After I get the gaskets, tailshaft housing, front gearing retainer and top shift cover on , it will go on the shelf until the engine is assembled.

 

Here is a small update; the T170 trans rebuild is done and I had the cam from the 59 engine reground to 1007B specs on the recommendation of Pete on the Fordbarn. Del Automachine in Elbe Wa. did it. \
I'm trying to get seat belts in so I can take him for a ride " pa pa's hot rod ".

 

Really like your 41......great work to BTW!
Interesting.......no vent/wing windows!!?!
Wonder when FoMoCo started using vent windows & when they stopped(mid 70's I tink?!)
Keep up the great work.
6sally6

 

Gotta nuther question because........I really want to know.
Why go to all the trouble/labor of rivets when welding would be an easier/better?? option!
Just to keep it more period correct?
Thanx
6sally6

 

Partly to keep the original appearance, but mostly they came with the kit and the holes were already punched. A good friend is/ was a "tinner" and had experience. The rivets are 1/4" and easily formed cold with an air hammer and bucking bar . There is a fair amount of welding required anyway. Check this page. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-it-home-and-pictures-pictures.1069927/page-4

 

I'm working on prepping for winter. The goal is to replace the floor of the cab and all the missing structure for the A pillar. I have almost all the missing pieces and I did some blasting to see how they fit together. There will still be some pieces to make.

The drivers side had some factory welds from the A pillar to the floor remaining so i used it for a reference for the other side. The pic below shows a previous repair on the right A pillar and I cut through the patch and closed the door opening about 3/16 in. at the bottom to match the left side.

One or two more braces and I can start cutting out rust.

 

Well, most of the cab floor is gone. I'm hoping to get the new one in stalled in the next couple of days.
Mucho work on the A pillars and eventually the toe boards, but the floor has to be there first.

 

This should keep you busy for awhile Joel. That A pillar looks like a real challenge.

 

You're right, Sam, but I'll have all winter to mess with it and I have some stamped pieces for almost all the missing steel. Looks like I'll be sand blasting and drilling spot welds for a while.

 

A little blasting and 50+ spot-welds cut today. I found some repair needed on the seat back braces. I think they need to be fixed before the new floor goes in.

 

This is a "see if it'll even fit" test. I have some repairs to the bottoms of the B pillars and some adjustments to the floor pan, which are very minor. I had tacked the floor extensions to the floor pan while it was bolted to the frame and I used the holes stamped in the 2 pieces for positioning. I thought I better verify the overall length by fitting it to the cab. so far so good.
Now I can relax a little and do the dirty and tedious stuff.

 

Finally got some small repair done that was necessary before installing the floor.
There was a little over 2 in. missing on the bottom of the B pillar.
This is the piece I'm using for a patch.

 

I sprayed some weld thru primer on mating surfaces and put the floor in for a fit check. I wanted to be prepared in case things went better than expected.
I think it's pretty close. The last pic is some relief cuts I had to make so that the floor would go up against the B pillar tie brackets.
I don't know if this is the best way, but it's all I could come up with. At least the welds will be on the inside.

 

Nice job Joel!

 

Thanks, Sam. I haven't been here much lately. I will have yard work for the next month or so and then I should be back in the garage steady.

 

Same here, lots of yard work and have been using what shop time I do have to help some friends out with their projects. I am looking forward to more shop time this winter.

 

OMG I can relate!...it's been almost 6 months since I did any work on the '38 project. Hoping to wrap up my current non-car related project in the coming month, then a week of maintenance on the daily drivers, a week on a friends vehicle as a favor and then back on the '38 for the winter and I'm looking forward to it!

 

I took some pix of the truck with the floor tacked in ( lightly ). I don't want to get too excited until I see the doors back on. Today, I got the passenger one on to check fit and gaps. I'm looking to have Henry Ford gaps which are nothing special.

Not enough room to take good pix, but I think the doors fit a little better. We'll see when I get the A pillars rebuilt with new lower hinge mounts.

 

Really nice work, Joel! You are nailing it or welding it I mean!

 

Looks very good. May even be better than Henry gaps. Fine tuning could have them perfect.

 

Thanks, Tom. After getting things in the right place, my worry is welding it and then having to move it due to unforeseen circumstances.

Perfect gaps would be an accident; I'll take Henry's

 

I am enjoying watching your progress. Keep up the good work and I will keep watching!

 

Thanks, @Bandit Billy . Here is my latest "opportunity" as Hamtown Al wold say. The bottom hinge on the drivers door is destroyed, but I found a replacement here on the HAMB .
This is what I found under the booger welds on the top sheet metal and below is the hinge I removed.

I didn't split the pin bosses; a P.O. did that. I have to think about this. I might rig up a temporary patch so I can see the door fit and move on with the floor install.