Adding it to my oil on this change. Formula is replace 20% of the oil with MMM. That is close to being a qt. and in fact the MMM website says if your ride takes 5 qts, replace 1 of those with MMM. I've never had the opportunity to work with MMM and that seems like it might be excessive. My HEMI does use 5 qts. with filter and am leery of going with that much MMM. Who here has used it at the recommended amout of 4 qts oil, to 1 qt. MMM and how did that work for you???
I used a full quart with every oil change for years in a couple different cars with no problems. However, the other 4 quarts I'd go one level thicker (20w50 instead of 10w40, for example) because that stuff is thin! Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
And that is what concerned me. But I l started out with 10/30 at first and there was no problem. I'll stay with the 20/40 and see what takes place. And thanks for your reply atomickustom. And BTW I spent the night once, with a friend, in Joplin waaaaaaaaaaay back in 1960. He was from there and we were in the USAF. He showed me around a little, I liked it.
I’m not saying don’t add MMM to your oil, but I don’t se why you would need to add it to modern oils. What’s the reason?
I like to add a quart to the oil just before an oil change,,and let it work on the varnish buildup in the engine . It cleans behind the ring grooves and lets them seal better,,,,,and cleans excess funk from the inner block walls . Then after a 100 miles or so,,,,I change the oil,,,,,it helps to keep the inside cleaner . Tommy
It's just pure refined oil. It keeps things clean inside the engine. It may not be necessary, but as far as I know it doesn't do any harm, either. I started using it in a car with a sticky lifter. Fixed it right away and kept it fixed for the several more years I drove that car. That was enough to make me happy with it. Sent from my SM-G981V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I put a pint in the wife's Corvair when I did the oil change last week. It's got one lifter that makes noise if you let it sit for too long without starting it. This engine was rebuilt and then sat dormant for 20+ years when the car's brakes failed and the owner decided not to throw any more money at it. I got it, changed the oil, cleaned out the carbs, squirted some MMM in each cylinder and fired it up. Slowly but surely it ran better and better. It's had quite a few oil changes, each with a dose of MMM. At this point it runs great but every now and then that one lifter sounds off.
A lot of folks have used MMO to free up an old engine that has just sat for decades and it seems to work, also a lot of Marine guys use it to combat the bad effects of ethanol fuels. I know it seems to be a decent carbon blaster when added to the gas tank.
How does MMM work out for y'all? Been told Sea foam can help as well. Wanna try it with my daily. 196,000 on the clock.
Knew a guy who worked for Delta Air Lines. He said they used MMO in all of their ground vehicles for longer engine life. He uses it in his personal vehicles. Stopped a sticking valve in my flatty.
MMO is basically napthenic base oil with some benzene, some dye, and some say it has some wintergreen oil in it for aroma. It works to free rings and sticky lifters by solubolizing the heavy contaminants. Here's the thing about lubricating oils, the cheaper and poorer the quality of the base oil, the better solvency they have; and the better, more expensive base oils (including full synthetic PAO) the poorer solvency they have (that's why PAO based lubes use some synthetic ester as a carrier to solubilize the additives). So yes, you put this cheap shit in your oil and it may just clean up some old tar in your engine, because it's an old engine from when engine oils were crap (compared to modern oils), or because you don't change the oil very often. Yes, than by all means, using some of this low grade base oil can help clean up the lacquers and deposits that form in the engine. But then you want to drain that crap out, get it out of there, because the nature of highly solvent low grade oils is they are not very stable, meaning they will react with oxygen at low temperature. They will oxidize rapidly, and they will cause the very problem you're trying to clean up. Oxidation is the main aging process of lubricants, it causes the oil to darken in color and increase in viscosity; it leads to the formation of larger & heavier compounds that fall out of suspension and because they are polar they cling to surfaces and form those lacquer coatings you see in old engines. To add this stuff to modern engine oils is crazy, really not good to do guys. This is a holdover from years gone by (decades gone by), when engine oils were far less developed, and engines had no positive crankcase ventilation to remove moisture and volatile fumes that collect inside an engine and foul the oil. Modern oils are far more resistant to oxidation, and they have substantial detergent/dispersant additives to break up and clean up deposits, or prevent them from forming. And then you go an add this crap and ruin everything. If you replace 1 of 5 qts with this, you've diluted the high quality modern base oil with 20% cheap napthenic oil, and you've diluted all of the additives in the oil with this crap, and who knows how the benzenes are going to react with the additive package? What is the effect on oxidation resistance? I can guarantee you it's not good.
It's a synthetic wintergreen. One of the better penetrating oils around. That's why it is included. Marvels definitely has its uses. Modern OT engines have EFI and electronic ignition, computer engine controls and temperature regulation, they don't have the problems the old school iron routinely ran into. It isn't even close. It was very common for people to run poorly tuned engines for extended intervals and (later) also typical to run into stale oxidized gasoline residues after sitting out in the weeds, etc, lots of gum or varnish and carbon buildup on valves, lifters, and piston rings etc. That's what the penetrating oil & light solvents are designed to address. If you can free stuck rings, sticky lifters or valves etc., without tearing the engine apart that's a good thing in my book.
I use it in all of the older cars. Add a bit to gas and oil. Don't know if it is a great addition but my dad used it in everything on the ranch when I was growing up. Keep a good bit on hand.
If you have use modern detergent oil and change it when required and have sticky valves.....the engine has issues that need more than a little solvent dumped into the oil
I was hoping Blues4U would chime in, always good information. I've never been a fan of additives in a healthy engine but I do use some in my older and worn out engines. My old green riding lawn mower gets STP and like I said above, my wife's Corvair gets a shot of MMM with each oil change. I'm wondering; now that I've done a half a dozen or more flush/treatment oil changes and the Corvair seems to be running consistently well, what oil would be best for that old, air cooled, high RPM engine?
Have you tried Lucas Classic Car and Hot Rod oil? It has highest level of zinc I can find. Modern oils are very low in zinc and aren't very protective to wear in older engines. Oil companies had to lower zinc content due to catalytic converter failures when emission standards started to ramp up. Modern oil just doesn't cut it in old engines. Joe
If it is an intake valve try putting it in your gas instead. I have never run it in my oil so I really cannot answer your question on that. I have used to for top end oil before with good success.
I can buy Lucas Hot Rod oil at ACE Auto Parts in Huntington Beach and I do. Bruce is a local good guy whose family has been in hot rodding for years and he stocks it along with AN fittings, single wire alternators, 5 gallon cans of VP racing gasoline..etc.....
I get mine from NAPA in the 5 qt. jug. If they don't have it in stock, I can order online and pick up the following day. Joe
I'll look for it at our new NAPA store. Oil is changed (4) qts. Castrol 10/40 (1) qt. MMO. Ran it for up to 20/30 minutes in the shop. Might be my imagination but it seems a little quieter on the lifter end of things, the small amount of smoke I think/thought might be blow by didn't show up either. But it takes longer than that see what might be blow by and I know you'd all say, "If it is blow by you'd see it in 20/30 minuets". I most often see it at idle while sitting at a traffic light coming out of the valve cover breather. Very embarrassing. When it was supposedly rebuilt cylinder bore was checked and bored 60 over with new pistons/rings (so they said) . IF that is the truth, there of course should be no blow by and maybe there's a ring not working like intended ???
I’ve only run it through the carb, or added to the fuel. For lifters tick now and the, I’d use Rislone, not sure if Rislone is around anymore
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