I think I'm gonna go with the molasses goo. Does it make a difference for the material of the container? And is it re-usable for the next block? Also how much for a single block, H20 ratio etc?
Cleaned off the oil on the driver frame rail and laid it on my motorcycle lift... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Got a new torch setup with amptroller and swivel head gas lens. It is very sensitive. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Became an alliance member and got a new lid as my son stole my favorite Stars and Stripes one! I bought some awesome swag and proceeded to cover aforementioned lid... Now I’m officially H.A.M.B. equipped! Also purchased a bunch of stuff from Walden Speedshop. Bobby is a really nice guy. He sent me a personal letter about visiting the Coca-Cola factory in Elizabethtown. He is my inspiration for this 33’ build. He reminds me of my father in law, and is a spitting image of him too! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I purchased a tote that the mafia would be proud of! Farm grade molasses A frozen block... An engine hoist Mixey mixey... Sealy sealy... I set a timer for 1 month... [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The fitment on these frame rails has left a lot to be desired... I will need to heat certain areas and beat them into submission with a BFH... Thankfully the boxing plates were dead on. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
80% of this rail is done... I hope to knock them both out by tomorrow. This portion looks like it will heat nicely and fold round to seal off the frame. I will then need to drill out for the v-bar and custom frame hooks. I have the rear chrome bar, coil over suspension member and 1” dropped front cross-member. I will need to study the Westcott diagram for locations for weld fitments. I have ordered the center tubular crossmember from Pete and Jakes and am currently setting up my jig. Thanks for tuning in and more to follow tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Looks like it's too late now, but frame rails (new or original) usually need a bit of bending to have the proper profile. You know, the correct curve from front to back, as looking down from above. So the body will bolt down and not be spread too wide or sucked too narrow. Welding the boxing plates into them before bending them to shape locks the wrong profile into them. That's why I asked what kind of jig you were going to use. Good luck.
I’m actually very disappointed in these frame rails... I guess as the frame starts taking shape I will maybe need to tweak it with heat and my buddy’s frame straightening tools following the Westcott diagram. Luckily this isn’t an F1 race car chassis [emoji964] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree^^^ above. thats why I asked if you had a new floor pan as it would have been another indicator as to the rails being the correct shape before welding
Do you recommend hemorrhaging the 2500$ for a floor pan? Welds can easily be cut... These frame rails are shite. I’m probably going to have to cut and bend the rails... I’m building this damn plane as I’m flying it. I think it’s a moot point whether the boxing plates are on or not as I’m cutting anyway, maybe* I can hold off on the other side and work on something else I guess? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just think when you are starting with a body in pieces, the more correct shape parts to set it on the better you will be able to make it all work
Thanks chessterd5 - I do not have any experience with new floor pans some one here will help i am sure. An original would be nice as you then know its correct and all the bolt holes too. They do come up for sale occasionally. Some of the new floors eliminate the riser where the rear seat would be in a sedan making a flatter floor for a coupe. I forget, do you have any bits of the stock floor to look at?
Building the plane as you are flying it is a perfect analogy for what you are trying to do. You need to either put up with poor fit, or stop and ask questions from experienced builders about the recommended steps to do things. It's cool and all to show progress, but when it basically shows you have wasted the cost of a pair of frame rails it's kinda silly. I recently toured a shop that used a pair of ASC 34 rails and they created a gorgeous frame from them. They didn't say a single thing about the rails being crappy. But they used a solid and accurate jig and had it clamped every which way, as solid as can be before they ever started welding parts together. Basically you have two bendy noodles with no straight bit to them. You need to accurately hold them at the proper distance apart, then try to keep them from shrinking and twisting, as you add a thousand degrees of heat in concentrated areas. There are a myriad styles of chassis jigs, and you can see many on the HAMB. Laying some rails over sawhorses isn't gonna cut it.
I completely understand this. However I have multiple frame resource materials and measurements. Multiple measurements and tack welding will be paramount here. The paint stands were for just balancing the frame rails when I brought them home... they will definitely be jigged up when final welded... Hopefully as I progress you will chip in. My Model A frame was done this way with tacks and a final jig. It strung out to 1/16” I do have the front body section to work with and will order the floor. I wish to channel this, so do I need the sub rails? Or just the floor. Also how accurate is the floor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you are going to make everything (subrails, floor, etc.) yourself you can fab it to fit whatever the frame measures up to be. If you are going to fit stock parts to this frame later, the stock dimensions will be very important. Only you can answer that. I've seen on Instagram a guy who makes very nice looking stock style subrails and floors. They would be a huge boost to the body. He even makes the subrails deeper for a channel if you want. But you would need to have your frame set up with exact stock perimeter dimensions.
So build frame to stock dimensions, then contact him. Do you have his info? I want to channel to the frame thickness, I guess 6-7” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can find it tomorrow on my other computer. If you could wait, you could buy the floor unit and set the frame up to match.
Roger roger. Just tell him hotrod floor with 6-8” channel? Also where is the cutout for the p and j pedals? Or do I cut that? Also does it have to be channeled the whole way? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My recollection is that Ford changed to 15" sometime during the '49 run. Could be wrong so correct me if need be. 40 thru 48 ford used 5 on 5 1/2" and 16" while Merc had 15" with 5 on 5 1/2 thru '51 Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The two pictures you posted of the So Cal coupe are two time frames of the coupe:One low chop with the Guys standing around it and UltraLow with Alex sitting in it.(look at the window on that shot...)Neat project.
https://www.instagram.com/oldsoulhotrodshop/ I don't know him and have never bought the products, but they sure look GOOD on his page. Contact him and see what he can do for you. I see a couple different variety of his floors, so maybe you want one without the battery hole and the rear footwells. I can't answer the P&J pedal question. Shouldn't that be installed after you have the chassis set up and the body assembled on it? How else are you going to know where you want the pedal to be?
If you are not running a stock floor, are planning on channeling the car your frame will be fine if it's square and within a 1/4" of the wescotts drawings. Don't get hung up trying to make it a restoration. I would make a simple ladder type fixture to bolt to your lift so you can get the rails square both horizontal and vertical. when I didn't my truck frame I just tacked one frame on top of another. Maybe someone close has one you can borrow?
The x-member can be ordered with pedals installed rather than trying to re-invent the wheel. It gives u an idea of where they will be on the floor. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
P&J has pretty good locations of the pedals for a 34 in their catalog. I am close to theirs with my 34 truck even though I am running different pedals.
So you used the x-member locale? From them or just used the info? They are always dead nuts with everything. But so expensive. I guess you get what u pay for... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sort of. I used their 34 free standing pedal dimensions. I checked it against my complete and intact 34 frame. Everything is a compromise in a pick up.
The Jalopy Journal
