The driver side SAR quarter has too much crown. The p***enger side was perfect. How would you go about removing the excess crown? Thanks, Rich
Have you checked the crown of the deck lid inner panel for side to side consistency? Is it possible to give more arch to the decklid? If all the variance is in the SAR quarter, can you get a stretcher near the trunk flange to open it up? If not, you may need to cut some relief cuts to bring it down. That's what I would do...but others may know how to fix it right
The decklid is identical side to side. Relief cuts were my first thought, but it seems as though there should be a "prettier" fix. Can the crown be shrank with heat? What about running a shrinking disc over the high spot? Thank, Rich
It looks to me like SAR applied to much shrink at the trunk flange. I don't believe using a shrinking disk on the quarter will take that out. The trunk flange needs to be allowed to flatten some. If the trunk rain gutter (U-shape) is installed, I might also try cutting the inner "L-shape" off the rain cutter to allow stretcher access to the trunk flange to allow it to relax/flatten. Then get the "L-shape that was cut free to match (also with the stretcher), and then re-weld it back together.
Stretching that out is easy. I can see a spot in the pic where the flange looks like it's got too tight a curve. About midpoint. If you remove some of that curve in the flange the crown will lower a bit. Since the whole quarter won't fit in your shrinker/stretcher, I'd take a nice flat dolly and put it tight behind the flange. Then take a nice flat faced hammer and smack the flange dead on the dolly where it needs to be stretched. One nice square hit will stretch the flange a bit, just the same as putting it in your shrinker/stretcher. Hit it again for more. If you hit it too many times I don't have an easy way to take the stretch out. It will require tucking, or maybe even a bit of heat. So I'd recommend sneaking up on it. But, before you do any work, verify the decklid is correct. Maybe it's a bit too flat? Compare to a nice original deck or quarter panel.
That sounds like it should work. But, will that increase the the distance, top to bottom, of the deck lid opening? Right now, the distance from the tulip panel to the lower trunk panel is exactly the same. Thanks, Rich
Haven’t used a SAR part. I have had to “message” B-Ville and OEs. I would make a pattern of the arc from the better side and compare to the bad side before moving it. Changing the arc will affect the gap. The gap is also controlled by the inner brace.
If you flatten an arc it will make the straight-between-two-points distance longer. It won't make the over-the-hill distance longer. Again, I suggest checking the repro decklid first. I've worked on plenty of decklids and can't say I've ever seen a perfect one.
Clearly the deck lid is in two pieces ,I'd go very slowly and don't alter the quarters , it won't end good with out a lot of pain/work , I'd make the deck lid fit the quarters
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