The sad part is I have been "saving" it since it's first go-round in 1966. Seemed easier to build that time....
Another nice day today, so scrubbed the floor with the 3M pad, vacuumed and wiped down and then started spraying. Dang! Ran out so I'll have to make a visit to Home Depot. I think I'm going to take my heat gun and see how much of the tar I can get off of the inner panels See the little white flecks on the floor? Those are pin-hole rust throughs. Also notice the slot shape rust-through on the flange of the brake access hole. I'll probably use JB-Weld to fix them. I haven't got a TIG/MIG welder yet, so that option is not available. I'm comfortable doing the JB-Weld routine since I use it a lot for other things. The reason I am removing the tar stuff is that the surface is very rough and there have been your comments that the sound deadners won't stick well to it. You'll notice the tar on the inner fender panels in back are pretty smooth because I took the wire brush to them using my grinder. But it resulted in a huge mess, so I thought I'd try a heat gun this time. We'll find out what kind of mess that makes....
Time to fix rust pin-holes in the floor: First, I drilled them out, filed them, or sanded them to make sure I had removed the rust and given myself a clean bonding surface: I used aluminum foil on the belly taped into place: I applied the JB Weld to the holes and then used an old hair-dryer to warm it up and make sure it flowed well to get good adhesion: Once this is cured I can finish painting the floor.
Here's looking up at the bottom after I removed the tape and aluminum foil: But I still needed to remove the door sill before I could paint. Most of the screws came right out but it had 3 rusty screws that took a drill, an air-tool, and finally my Dremel tool to remove. Good Grief! When I start putting this back together I'll have to find NOS or replicas of both door sills. But, that's a while off. So there is the gap left with the sill out. I had to scrape a bunch of tar out that had been beneath the sill and then took the angle grinder with a wire brush to it to get it cleaned up. Of course, the grinder blew tiny bits of tar all over the place, so I spent as much time vacuuming up the mess as I did making it. After treating it with After-Blast and letting it dry I finally got to the painting part: I used one whole can just to do the drivers side. I want this area to be durable.
You can get the scuff plates from Carpenter's. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ca...MIwoajmoD37wIVh5WzCh2AHAskEAQYASABEgL2vvD_BwE
I wanted to get the tar scraped off the inside of the door and rear seat panels so later on when I install sound-deadner blankets there would be no problem in their sticking to the panel surface. I didn't take a good "before" picture of the driver's side, so here is the passenger side. You can see that the tar would not provide a very good bonding surface - it is both rough and dirty: As always, this stuff is easier said than done. Heat gun is in my left hand and the scraper (putty knife) is in my right. You can see the corner of the box in the lower left side of this picture that I was dropping the tar scrapings into Here is after scraping and then scrubbing down with a degreaser that did a good job of cleaning off the remnants. I'll let it dry overnight and then spray it with After-Blast tomorrow. Then, more Rustoleum black.
I think I previously included a shot of a damaged body-mount area in the corner of the rear seat support. It is behind this panel: Here it is from the bottom of the car - note the damage on the right: Another view: Here is the same mount on the passenger side: Not quite sure what I'll do to repair it. I can't see hoe to repair it from the inside of the body since access is so limited. This is the photo I took earlier from the inside. You can see the light coming through the break in the metal: If you have had this same problem, how did you repair it?
Maybe I'm being overly simplistic, but a giant washer that covers outside of the damaged area to spread the load past the damaged area should work just fine. If you wanted, you could weld the washer over the top.
After applying the After-Blast and letting it dry it was time to lightly scotch-brite scrub the doors and wipe them down: And then painted with Rustoleum: Not much steel reinforcements in that door. Getting T-boned would be a bitch. Do you guys ever reinforce them? How? I also finished scraping the tar off the inside panels of the passenger side. I got the rear seat side panel scraped and a lot off the door panel and decided it was time to take a break. You can see the remaining tar on the lower, rear inside of the door: After my union break here it is with all the tar removed. Box of scrapings is almost full: It is interesting that the tar actually did a very good job of protecting the steel. Here you can see the bare steel that was under the tar and the surrounding area where no tar was applied has surface rust: The degreaser did a good job of cleaning up the panels: And after spraying with rustoleum: When I was cleaning up I found a penny down in the bottom of the rear-seat side panel. It is pretty far gone so I'm going to try to polish it up to see if I can see a date on it.
I put a piece of 1x2x1/8" rectangular tubing running the length of the door in our '38 cabriolet. There are pictures in my build thread (I can't remember which post #, and the post number doesn't show up when I view on my phone). BTW, I've been following along on your build with interest...good work, keep it up!
man, if those are the wheels slated for this thing in the background, that 40 will look pretty damn cool!
I found it on page 4 of your build thread towards the bottom of the page. I've been following your build thread but had forgotten that you welded in that bar on your door. I really appreciate your welding skills and will have to greatly improve before I can do something like that. I am buying my equipment as I come into need, so it won't be long before I have to get a welding set. First thing I did after retirement was sign up for the local community college class on TIG welding and then MIG welding (obviously should have been the other way around....) But now comes the part "okay, you know how to turn it on, then what?" of my building experience.
After Rustoleuming the doors I was thinking that I was done with the cabin work and it was time to move onto the frame. And then I noticed that I had not removed the tar from the two front side panels (the kick panels? not sure what they're called.) It's the brown stuff: It is on the inside of this panel, both sides: So, out comes the heat gun again and I get the kick-panels all scraped clean: I applied the After-Blast and got them painted: Second, close-up shot of driver's side panel. The brown on the bottom of the panel is just a reflection - black paint makes a pretty good mirror: For now, that's the end of the work on the inside of the cabin. I think that's most of what I can/should do at this point. Next thing up is to push the frame out onto the driveway and start wire-brushing it. I want to clean it up and strip it of parts to be replaced and then build it up. I'm going to come up with sort of a "to-do list" and post it to get your comments. I would expect that the order I do things in will make this build either easier or harder to do and I also don't want to get to a point where I find out that there was something i should have done much earlier in the build but hadn't.
I salute your work to date and the wisdom of never selling it. I wish I was as smart as you. That 40 is in great condition, all the rust repair guys have to be marveling over its pristine sheet metal. Having just said how good the metal looks, have you considered having the frame sandblasted? You've paid some serious dues in terms of hand cleaning and prepping the body. Just a suggestion. And again, kick ass work so far. Keep it going...
I checked the price locally on sandblasting services. For what they wanted I could almost buy a new frame. I'm searching for a rental unit.
While I was doing all of this panel clean-up I found a penny in the passenger side rear panel of my Ford. It had stuck in the crevise attachment of my shop vacuum while I was vacuuming out bits of tar. It's amazing that I hadn't simply sucked it up and never knew it was there. I guessed that it was a penny from its round shape - it was so dirty I couldn't see any markings on it. So, I polished it with Simichrome.... My brother noted that 1918 was the year of the last pandemic.
That penny would look great inset into a shift knob! I love the job you're doing on this car! The details are what add to the overall vibe of the car...seeing no short cuts being taken speaks volumes to the quality of the build.
Here's what I am thinking for "next steps" on my 40. I need some feedback from you guys (I particularly want the input of 40 Ford guys that have been down this road.) . Do you have any comments on how I've written these steps or their order? Steps I'm forgetting? Additional questions I should be asking? Comments/observations/answers to my various questions? 1) Wire-brush/clean frame and After-Blast each section as I get it cleaned or take to a grit blaster for stripping. a) Are there any measurements I need to make before removing the front end steering components and the back end drive-train? 2) Decide: sbc or Ford? I'd really like to do Ford, but I also want this build to stay in my range of abilities. (I installed a power-pack sbc 283 in high-school and was happy with that so would like today's equivalent or a little more - it needs to be able to beat my Equinox) 3) Replace/reinforce center section (not sure which. If it is replacement: what manufacturer's components should I use? (I plan on installing an automatic transmission) 4) Paint frame. Epoxy? 5) Order and install dropped front axle, springs, disc brake components, spindles for front end. Is there something cleaner/better than splitting the wish-bone? Can hair-pins be used? What are all the pieces that I need? Is there a better steering box (my original seemed loose)? 6) Find/order and install 9" Ford rear-end and suspension components. I'll go with disc brakes (I used to rebuild the drum brakes on all of my cars - I hate drum brakes!) any recommendations on a 4-link? 7) Is there a recommended power brake master cylinder that I can install in the original location? 8) Once the frame with front and rear suspension, steering, braking, and drive-train are complete, reinstall the body. 9) Strip paint off body and seal. 10) Body work and paint 11) Reinstall glass/regulators and associated components. 12) New upholstery So, what's out of order, what am I forgetting, what other decisions need to be made and when? Thanks!
Point three: have a look at my build thread. Early on there are frame pics including how I did the centre section. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1938-39-40-sloper-custom.1210500/page-2
What Transmission are you planning to use? Stick or Auto? it make a difference, you can get a stick in there without splitting the wishbone. but with an auto your probably going to have to split for the trans pan. Hair pins are out, the best ride you will get is with the stock front end with tube shocks and a good spring (think Posies part#2040 ). If you want a Ford motor, You need one with a rear sump, a Y block would be great! That dumb pan set up on a 289/302 is a major pain with the front crossmember. You might be able to do it with an early Bronco Pan? But not sure. I have a personal hatred of small block fords so i try to avoid them at all cost. A small chevy will fit great. A 283 will work great in there, will bolt up to the stock trans, with the appropriate adapter, and is hoot to drive. Thats what i have in my 39. However i am taking the stock trans out along with the banjo rear and installing an early Bronco 9 inch rear, and a top loader 3 speed from a 63 Fairlane. For rear suspension for you new rear (a 66 to 76 Bronco rear is the right width and the same bolt pattern as original) do you want parallel Leafs or Ladder bars? not a fan of 4 Bars and coil overs, always thought the rode like crap. R-Jays speed shop make a great set up for ladder bars for 35 to 40's, almost ready to install mine, and you can use the stock transverse spring. Weedeter Street Rods makes a really great parallel leaf kit for these as well.
Thanks for your input. I'll look up that Posie spring number and your reference to the Bronco rearend helps too. When I originally built this car in High School I put a 283 power-pack in it using the Hurst front mounts, an electric fuel pump, Ford truck clutch, special adaptor plate using the original tranny and rear-end. It was lots of fun but too much power for the old drivetrain. I broke an axle coming over Homestake Pass into Butte and after replacing that, broke one of the transmission mounting yokes. So, this time I'm going with a modern drivetrain using an automatic transmission.
slip a little aluminium powerglide in behind the 283 it will be easy with little mods needed , a set of those bolt in rear spring kits and away you go
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