Greetings All. I’m about 75% of the way through a complete rewire job on a 60's Ford. I’m using an EZ wiring 12 circuit harness. I used an EZ Wiring 21 circuit kit on my 40' Chevy about 8 or 9 years ago, but that had a GM column and a GM one wire alternator, so things were a little more straight forward. So on this Ford so far I’ve got the front and rear lights done, and the charging system done. Now I’m working in the cab. I have a factory manual and factory schematics, but all of the original wiring has been ripped out, so those diagrams don't help much since I don't know what the original colors were. So basically I'm starting totally from scratch. So I’ve got a few questions, and I know a lot of folks have used this kit, so hopefully someone can shed some light here for me. 1. On the interior/dash portion, there is an orange wire labeled Brake Switch Power and a white wire labeled Brake Switch. I’m ***uming that both of these route through the firewall and connect to either side of the hydraulic brake light switch coming off the MC? 2. There is a blue wire labeled Wiper Power. My wiper switch has a couple of wires running from it to the wiper motor, and an empty terminal at the top of the switch. Is that where this wire connects to? Originally if I recall there used to be a green wire coming off the center post of the ignition switch going to this terminal at the top of the wiper switch. 3. How do you wire the Alt and Oil warning lights on the gauge cluster? I'm pretty sure that for the oil one side of the bulb goes to the oil sending unit and the other side goes to gauge power, but no idea how to hook up the AMP light. 4. As for the ignition switch, the EZ instructions just provide a conversion chart for GM to Ford, but not having any of the original wiring it’s not helpful. I need to know on which terminal to connect which wire of the EZ kit. I have a standard factory Ford ignition switch with f terminals and a center post, but the terminals are unlabeled. Can someone draw a picture and tell me where these wires go on my switch? I've tried to include a photo of the switch. IGN SW PWR=RED to YELLOW IGN SW IGN=PINK to RED/GREEN IGN SW ACC=ORANGE to BLACK IGN SW START=PURPLE to WHITE/BLUE Thanks Everyone!
Not using a 1 wire alt on this Ford. Using the original type alternator with a voltage regulator. So does one side of the ALT light come off of one of the pins on the voltage regulator?
Thanks 24riverview! that was exactly what I needed for the ignition switch. Does anyone know how the oil and alt idiot lights get wired?
Here's the idiot light diagram. Ford wired their alternators two different ways, one for the light and a different way for a ammeter (or if you wish to delete the light and use a voltmeter). Here's the diagram for the light... One thing to note is the resistor shown connected across the indicator lamp; this is required. If you install without it, you'll have to rev the snot out of it on initial start to get the light out. The regulator terminals should be marked as shown. A 15 ohm, 5 watt resistor is all you need. For the oil light simply supply switched power to the light, connect the other side of the light to the sending unit. Do make sure you run a ground wire as shown from the regulator base/housing to the alternator case.
For those who may want to not use the idiot light, here's that diagram... If you're not using an ammeter, just connect those two wires together.
To answer your questions- 1. Yes 2. Probably, don't know what 60's Ford you're working on but it does look like most Fords of that vintage the power feed goes to the switch which matches your memory. 3. See Crazy Steve's answer above, the light and resistor go in the "alt exciter" white wire in the EZ wire kit. 4. See above.
Question- does that resistor across the Alt light have to be 15 ohms at 5 watt? I can’t seem to find them on Amazon, and unfortunately there are no more radio shacks around here anymore. What is the acceptable variance as far as resistance and wattage of that exact type cannot be found? For example, I found 15 ohm resistors that are .5 watt, could I use that?
Also, where does the NSS come into play? I’ve got a Cruiseomatic (think that’s the same as a C4) and the NSS is mounted on the column and has two terminals on the back. Does one of the wires from the ignition switch have to route though this? Thanks!
I'm guessing on the wattage, but the lamp draws about 3.5 watts and has a resistance of about 60 ohms so I'd want a resistor at least able to carry the same current. And the resistance value needs to be pretty close, I learned that one the hard way. Here ya go.... OHMITE WHE15RFET RESISTOR WIREWOUND, 15 OHM, 5W, ±1% (1 piece): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Okay so I’m still confused about the ignition switch. 24riverview provided a photo that showed which wire goes where, but when I went back out to the garage today, I realized that there are actually 5 ignition switch wires on the EZ harness. Are they not all used? The ign switch section of the harness has: purple ign switch start Red ign switch power Brown ign switch ign Pink ign switch coil And then a black wire that comes off the red wire So are the brown and black wire unused on Fords? The EZ wiring manual doesn’t even mention the brown wire.
Purple start wire from ignition switch goes to NSS then from there to starter relay (solenoid). That harness is set up for a GM column mount ignition switch, it requires 2 battery feeds and is set up so when you are cranking nothing but the ignition system gets power. Use the red for your battery feed, ignore the black but make sure it can't short to anything. Pink and brown both need to go to the ignition terminal. Orange to accessory. One other thing, the orange and brown wires were installed in the GM plugs on the harness I worked on backwards. If you can check which of those has continuity with the radio fuse feed in the fuse box, that is your accessory wire. (I just removed a very sloppy install of an EZ harness and reinstalled)
A couple more questions.. 1. There was no lighter circuit. Where is the best place to pull power for the lighter? I was thinking of connecting it directly to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch. Is there a better place? I believe the lighter wire should have a fuse though, right? 2. Where would be the best place to tap into to install a toggle kill switch? The purple START wire coming off of the ignition switch? Or the red PWR wire coming off the ignition switch? 3. there is a red wire labeled RADIO. But just that one wire. I seem to recall every car stereo I’ve ever installed or replaced had two power wires, a constant 12v and a switched power, which I think was alway orange. So if I want to add a radio someday, how do I do that with one power wire?
Just a couple of the several reasons I was less than impressed with the EZ kit I recently reinstalled... That will work and will need a fuse. What are you trying to kill? Purple wire will just kill the start circuit, red wire will kill the whole ignition switch. If you just want to kill the ability to start (but not crank) use the pink wire. The red wire in that harness is the switched wire so you'll need to add the constant "hot". If I remember correctly the 2 spots circled are "hot" all the time taps and I think connected through the fuses next to each. To use correctly you'll need to find the proper plugs which were used in GM fuse boxes in the 70's and 80's, possibly more. Also seems like I have seen them new. Takes a different plug depending on if a battery, acc or ignition tap. You can see in the picture how I added extra fuses and used the insulated stud as a junction for several "hot" wires to give myself a easier place to get power.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pico-0951C-GM-Style-Fuse-Block-Tap,387114.html This one is made for doubling up in case you already have a wire in that spot but will work.
So what do I do with the brown Hazard wire coming out of the turn signal section of the harness? It has a constant 12v. It’s an early 60s Ford column which does not have a hazard light switch, so after I connected all of the column wiring for the turn signal switch, this was the only wire left. The EZ wire harness however has two flashers, one for turn signals and another for hazards, so can I use this circuit to gain hazard lights for a vehicle that did not originally have that as an option? I read on another forum that you’re supposed to take that wire and run it to a switch and the other end to ground. That sounded wrong, but like an idiot I tried it and all it did was blow the fuse, which is kind of what I expected would happen. There’s got to be a way to utilize the Hazard wire to add four way flashers. Thoughts?
https://www.cl***icindustries.com/p...MItL7IwNCV7wIVz1PVCh0JGA1bEAQYAyABEgLSqPD_BwE 4 wires - flasher you already have, one to tie into left front turn, one for right front turn and one to brake switch wire all can be tied into wires at turn signal switch.
You need to add a hazard warning switch. Sometimes found in the glove box on a mid 60's Ford truck. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Your lighter circuit will depend on whether you want it to get constant hot power or only with the switch on. Depending on make and model, some production cars have a lighter/12V outlet that is constant hot and some have it only hot with the switch on. Depends on which way you want it. If you want constant hot, wire it from the BAT term on your switch. Wire it from the ACC terminal if you only want it hot with the switch on.
Pay attention to the expected load on that circuit. If you use it for an actual lighter or heavy load of any type, connect it to a unswitched source so you don't overload the switch contacts. That's how the factories connected them and for that reason.
Thanks, so to clarify I want to wire in a kill switch as a theft deterrent. So then in that case which would make the most sense- the pink coil wire, red power wire, or purple IGN wire? is there an advantage to using one over the other? Would a thief still be able to pop the hood and short the solenoid and start it that way if I break the pink coil wire? In other words which of the three is the most “theft proof”? (I know that sounds stupid since a thief who wants something bad enough will get it no matter what)
My opinion...best thing you could do is put the battery somewhere not easily accessible and put a hidden shut off in a cable. To kind of answer your question, probably the pink ignition wire but the only thing your kill switch would prevent is someone trying to start it by messing with the ignition switch in some manner. Typical 60's vintage Ford - test lead from battery to coil, screwdriver to starter solenoid and it's gone. Maybe a hood lock?
I have a switch that I want to use, but it only has three terminals- 12v in, ground and 12v out. Can i tie together both front turn signal wires and the one brake light wire from the turn signal switch all to the single output terminal on the switch? That seems weird though, I feel like if I do that then when I hit the left or right turn signal then both front signal lights and the brake lights will all come on. Am I overthinking it?
You are not overthinking it but underthinking it. You need a switch that combines switching for turn signals and also switching for brake lights at the same time. For example, when you are signalling a left turn, that switch has to switch off the signal to brake light on the left side so that if you apply the brakes at the same time, only the right side gets a signal from the brake light switch since brake and turn signals function on the same filament. You need a conventional turn signal switch.
Im using the factory turn signal switch in the steering column, it’s a 65 F100 that never had four way flashers from the factory, I just want to add them since the EZwiring kit has the circuit and flasher for it, so why the hell not? So I’m going to tap into the left turn signal wire and right turn signal wire, and brake light wire… all coming off the turn signal switch wires. I think this is correct. 24riverview posted a link to a hazard switch that would have come on my truck if it was so equipped, but I’ve got an extra hole in the dash, so I’m trying to find a round push ****on switch that I can use, but I can’t seem to find one with more than two terminals. So I think I have the logic right as far as the wiring, now I just need the switch
A turn signal switch with 4 way is a complicated unit. When you engage the 4 way, you need to disconnect the regular turn signal function. What confuses the issue is the brake switch swap over function for the two rear lights which need to be separate from the front lights. On a car with 4 way flashers, when they are on, if you step on the brake pedal all 4 corners get lit up and Don't flash. If you can figure out how to accomplish this with a simple switch; go for it. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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