Projects BRIAN MADE ME DO IT: 34 Roadster Build

Meh..I liked it better before...put it back...


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I came up with a better idea than the 2X4 to position the tail pipes (mainly because I didnt have a 2.25" hole saw), I sliced a 2" pipe to conform to the 1.75" spreader bar and a 2.5" pipe to hold the 2.25" pipes. I welded them together with a 1" nut and tweaked them a bit tighter with a pair of channel locks. I attached with double sided tape to the spreader (over the masking tape for easier removal.

Still utilizing the bungie cords for tension but the pipes are locked into position. The white mark is for easy reference for tip length. I ended up with a bit more than an inch due to the tape and the wall on the pipe I cut but this is close enough for government work and that is good enough for me.

That done it was time to slice up some pipe. I don't have a chop saw so it was portaband time. Mine is mounted to a table with a foot control so that part is nice and I used the HAMB approved "hose clamp" method for cut guides.

They will need a little clean up but not too bad for a garage hack. I used four 45 degree mandrel bends plus a section of straight pipe.
The mock up, yes more blue tape!

I tacked the SS v-band adapters to the pipes so I could mock the system up. I will weld them in place on the bench once I tack the rest of the joints on the car. Other than the weld at the v-bands I have one weld in the open field on each pipe (blue tape) and the last welds (for the tips) is under the connecting rod pipe hangers so they will be hidden. Also the flathead rods are slightly larger than the pipes, so I will keep my weld a bit high under the rod cap (not ground all the way down) to snug things up.

Good axle clearance, the bump stops in the C notch allow for 4.5" travel from this "hanging" position. The shocks will reach their limits before the exhaust finds the axle.
Next up is welding up the joints and then polishing the pipes.
I am using tri-mix gas and .30 stainless wire in my Millermatic 220 MIG. This is my first time welding SS so I plan on spending some time practicing on the scraps cuts I have left over. I will be back Saturday with the results then it is onto the tail lights and plate hanger. Almost done!

 

Great work! Looks good!

 

Looking pretty good there,,, however I would eliminate the V-Band clamp above the rear Axle and weld that joint solid also. In other words make the Tailpipe all one piece. There is a clamp on the muffler also, right? It's just a little more cleanup while your at it.

 

Pipes look great!!! Love the conn rod hangers. The little end caps finish it off very nicely.

I’m waiting to see what you come up with for the taillights!!!!

 

Sweeter than my first girlfriend.

 

No bueno, the next clamp its before the muffler. It would make disassembly a nightmare.

I ordered some .750 " OD ss robe. I Ann thinking I can cut what I have, swap sides so the tail lights move inward rather than out and extend them 4" , weld, polish, done. We'll see

Mine too!

 

Okay, catching up after a bust week at work and at home,
Tail lights took 4.5" of .750" OD SS tube to get them below the spreader bar and level with the pipes. It took a lot of measuring and @Pist-n-Broke , AKA Wizzard, took on the job of TIG'n them back together after I painstankingly mocked and measured. Turned out pretty damn good! A quick run across the buffer and on they go.

The tail pipes took a trip or three past my welder to fill the imperfections in my amateurish welds. I am getting good at MIG'n steel...I suuuuck at MIG'n SS. First time I polished they were not good. Re-weld and polish...worse. Took them to over to the Wizz and they no longer have holes in them.
I love polishing SS, but be it known to all mankind (don't tell the ladies) I hate welding SS!

You will also note the license plate brackets, they are from a 4 wheel drive joint and designed to hold lights, mirrors, bongs, and other paraphernalia from the tubes on those sand racers. To say this is a tight fit is an understatement...duuuuude!

Plate on, pipes on,

and lights on! Call this project done!

Quite a change in about a month. Oh, and 12 more gallons of go juice on board!
Here's the before.

And the after. Most people wouldn't even notice. Same nerfs, same spreader, same plate frame, same exhaust bezels, same but entirely different.

Made a slight alteration to the plate frame. A shout out to all of you that supply me with goodies!

This here's Bandit Billy and I'm 10-10 on the side

 

Now you need to find a good muddy road.

 

Followed by more time on the lift and a quart of Mothers!

 

You love it.

 

You are quite right!

 

Picture comparison really tells the story. Looks like she lost 100lbs from the butt.
BIG difference.

 

Well done, Sir!

 

That looks awesome
I love the taillights
Nothing out of place

 

Link to the 4x4 place with the license brackets?

 

Great workmanship!!!! Looks fantastic!!!

 

It was a ton of work in a short period of time. The look is great but the real reason is that new fuel tank and a summer coming in which to take advantage of not stopping at every single gas station. And rally, other than the cost of that Rock Valley SS fuel tank, this was not an expensive fix.

Thanks buddy! Now, where did I leave off on the PU?

I was a bit at seat over the tail lights. Other than cutting them into the rear panel of the car this was really the only option. Swapped the left and right mounts as the former set up moved the lights toward the frame and now they move away from the frame. @Pist-n-Broke did a fine job of TIG', those brackets for me. The .750" OD polished stainless cam from Summit for $15. Can't beat that!

Here. They were already drilled and tapped for 1/4 20's which just happened to be my mounting hardware. Easiest fix ever. When I went to install them I didnt think they would fit as they wouldn't reach around the tubing. I got the bolts started and they sucked right around that spreader. Tight fit!
https://www.mooreparts.com/empi-16-...p-bracket-with-1-4-20-threads-for-1-3-4-tube/

Thanks! I cannot wait to get it out and drive it and see it in the parking lot at the watering hole (her native environment). Supposed to be nice Sunday so...

 

Car looks great and I think we'd get along just fine. Been saving this bottle for when I get my current Vicky build done, coming up on 50 years unopened, have no idea how I managed it !

 

^^^^Thats awesome! And almost traditional by HAMB standards. No doubt we are birds of a feather!

 

So much better dude

 

Final product looks great!..now, can you get back to the '41 p/u project (I'm having withdrawals)?

 

I thought I had this but one of my AN fittings under the car is seeping and no one in this town sells conical seals or even knows what they are!

 

I didn't get a pic but this morning at a little swap meet/garage sale there was a completed 41 Ford pu for 12k. Looked like a ok deal.
I bought chrome door hinges for 50 bucks. Schwing!

 

I have had good luck making my own conical seals. Flare some copper tube, and then cut the flare off.


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Nice tip!

 

I couldn't seal up one of the fittings, just continued weeping so I followed your advice. I didn't have any copper but I did have some 3/8th (-6AN) aluminium (spell check allowed that Queen's English spelling surprisingly). So I flared a piece,

chopped it off (the paint stick was so I could get a straight cut due to the flare),

cleaned it up with a file and installed. I had to put the fitting down a little tighter than normal as this material did not crush as easy as store bought seals but no leaks. Thanks for the tip @cretin !

Being a novice I made a double flare the first time and it wouldn't crush at all. Second attempt was the money shot, set the tubing in the die at the 37 flare rather than flush at the end.

One a separate note, I hate having gasoline in my armpits. Maybe I should add aloe vera to the tank before working under the car on fuel lines.

 

The most expensive fill up ever! And I have never seen gas gauge all the way over there before.

 

Great! Glad it worked for ya.


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