Not sure. A buddy swears by it. I've seen the results. Better than damaging the block or the rods with heat or force.
The crank is flopping around loose because the acid in the molasses is eating the aluminum bearings away. Unfortunately, this also makes the molasses very weak. If the laundry bleach doesn't work, I'd make up a brand new batch of molasses at 1 part molasses to 3 parts water. Let the engine sit another 3 weeks.
Not at all, it is a chemical oxidation between ferrous compounds. It causes rust to dissipate. This is 1 month not 1 year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have a BS in chemistry and I assure you it is not... the molarity of the solution is not even close enough to remove all the surface grease/rust let alone “eating away” at the block. It has an etched appearance, meaning a nice clean appearance. It is not all eaten through Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Far from expert! But still frozen block! These rings are seized... hole saw/drill/sawzall...? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/303724-molasses-and-gray-cast-iron-warning/ These guys must not be experts either.
I would agree they aren’t... At 100deg Fahrenheit, for 3-4 weeks is a serious heat catalyst. I’m amazed they had anything left... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am curiously watching how this goes for you. You sound pretty confident and, as you stated, you have a BS degree but I have used molasses to take rust off of cast iron. It did not work out as you state it will. Please keep us posted on how this works out.
It’s a cast engine block from a Ford flathead man, not a magnesium titanium, out of spacium, F1, meteorite one off special... I will have another one soaking here this weekend. If it works great. If not oh well. I listened to many people on the H.A.M.B. and they advised this approach. So far so good. I’m sorry it didn’t work out for you, but it appears whatever I did has. If you like posting high school quips go back there. Please don’t post here. I’m an eternally optimistic person. If you are negative or sarcastic, please do not follow me or my post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I appreciate that. My real job is very stressful. I H.A.M.B. it up for stress relief. I usually don’t let this kind of stuff bother me, but you have to draw the line somewhere. I’m doing this for fun. It’s challenging to me... I could throw 25k at a PRE-built engine without batting an eyelid. I hope my success or failure will help even one person who has helped me over the last decade. I think 1:8 with farm grade for 4 weeks with no heat is about perfect. I appreciate everyone’s input. I look up to alchemy. He is very knowledgeable. He always quotes articles and other posts/research. He seems a nice intelligent stand up bloke. However, posting hate is uncalled for. I haven’t been negative to anyone, and only show love for anyone. Most people would have quit with the hazing I received in my first 6 months. I was only on and off because someone in my family died. Then covid hit. So please don’t ruin my H.A.M.B. experience for me. It’s all I’ve got other than my family. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We live in a world of keyboard warriors who couldn't build a sandwich. Your doing fine! Have at er and have fun that is the point.
I find when I'm de-rusting stuff, and we get a lot of that where we are, that some mechanical agitation helps during the process. Have you tried to slide a thin scraper down the bore, between piston and wall, and tap on the rings? Then put back in tank. Or, just irritate the top of the piston, with a block of wood and air hammer? And continue the process. Just some stuff, I do.
Lol!! I like sandwiches !! Great work keep it up and to each there own on there builds and what works for you works and what ever makes you happy do it, screw the rest of the people that always have a negative insight or just flat jellos of other people doings ect. Keep it up your mind your world [emoji289] your build who cares what others say or think. We all learn from our mistakes and that’s what makes us better. And some times our mistakes turn into new things for the better. I JB weld almost everything the rest I use bubble gum. Life is to short to do it right the first time
Man nothing will go down there except the blunt edge of an air chisel tonight, after I hack out the con-rods... If that doesn't work, 3 pounds of Semtex should do the trick as I never want to see this thing again...
Don't know if anyone sells them. I have a nice intact 34 frame I could take some pics and dimensions off you need. But being that you boxed the frame already a tubular street rod X is going to be an easier fit. Just saying.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk View attachment 5055861 View attachment 5055862 One down... 5 to go! [emoji849]
Preparing and cleaning the shop... I’m waiting for some heavy duty equipment to come in so I’m clearing space... this is my 33’ storage area. I assembled an 8ft unit like this for more storage... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So the old timer that sold me the merc engines gave me a bunch of old carburetors... I think 5. Would you rebuild them or just paperweight them? The two 97’s for the 29’ are going out to Max Musgrove. Should I send him these also? It’s $225 a pop plus both way shipping of ~$30 For the 33’ I’m thinking EFI with the monster blown engine... or would you do triple intake with a middle fake? Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
We don't speak EFI here on the HAMB. Show any of that stuff and your thread will get deleted. I've never played with Chandler-Groves carbs, and for $225 each I'd rather spend the money on some Strombergs. Strombergs are simpler, easier, and cooler. Sure they might cost more, but they are worth it.
What about the Holley four barrel 390 cfm ? I ask as I want that engine dialed in... or will that not look right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The Jalopy Journal
