Technical ***May 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Great Shop Weather***

Yes I have used a epoxy product called Knead It to repair the Nash twin ignition cap for my twin plug flathead . I have never seen it but I think JB Weld have a similar product. Selleys (manufacturer) used to cite distributor cap repair as a suggested use, in the advertising for Knead it . It works but currently I have given the cap and rotor to my nephew to see if he can digitally copy and then
3D print them.

 

Thanks, 97.

 

Anyone familiar with this style of water pump? I've seen it on a few bangers, was this a factory part, or did it come off a tractor or something?

 

Retson : Carefully clean that assembly & look for a name in it somewhere : several different "brands" used something similar for their OH conversions on "B" blocks (pushrod or OHC) to simplify the waterpump/magneto mounting. There would be another housing that went over the original camshaft gear that the gear on the left end of your assembly would go into to drive this & keep it in time, etc.

 

Unfortunately this is a photo I found, this is what I have.

 

I was talking with a friend the other day, saying how its great to be driving a hot rod after years without an early car to drive, and I described how I drove my banger coupe 105 miles straight at 55 mph from the black forest run to my house on the outskirts of the city in which my suburb is based. The car drove over 250 miles that day with no issues.

My right foot was quiet tired after that journey.

so - I'm wondering if anyone still runs the hand throttle in conjunction with a single downdraft carbie?

I run a single 97 on an original burns intake, but have nothing left of the setup from the column to the original carbie, so I am looking at the possibility of making something to run the original column lever.

I plan on doing a few more long trips later in the year, and would appreciate any imput to setting up some sort of throttle control.

 

Can I ask a dumb distributor question here or do you guys want me to start a new thread?

clip on accessory distributor VS the Bosch front plate for model T. Both have mechanical advance arm.

question is when you replace the distributor with a modified 009 VW centrifugal or a Mallory how do you guys clamp them after timing to keep from rotating and staying in the bore?

mechanical units have a groove which accepts the lockdown bolt but only to keep it from popping up, it needs to rotate with the mechanical linkage.

I have a Mallory dual point centrifugal and it wiggles enough to eat at the housing with the lock screw. Shaft has no runout. I tweaked the gears some and it helped but just seems like there needs to be a better way. I have seen some of the mechanical units dancing around a little in running engines. I ask over on the T forum and all they give me is crap for running a distributor.

 

I have a "T" front drive here with a Mallory dual point dist. The groove in the dist housing has been improved both in width and depth. Then a "U" shaped brass piece to fit into the groove with a smallish pilot hole in the side of it. The Lockbolt is modified with a small pilot to fit into the hole in the brass piece. This keeps the dist inserted to the correct depth and allows for rotation.

PS, they would give me real crap for using a dual point...

John

 

Thanks John
Mine is dual point also. I will pull it and cut a groove

The groove on mine is only for the O ring . He cut no groove for the locking screw. It locks against the OD of the housing. I had to lift it about a 1/4” out of the bore to find the sweet spot that the gears seem to mesh good. I turned a spacer but I still don’t like it. I’m thinking the gears are a little tight. New reproduction gears.
I am going to mock up another plate I have on a junk block with a cam in it and find out what’s going on

 

Just got the mag! Seems it isn’t as easy of a connection as I was led to believe. Anyone have advice in gears to adapt this?

 

That mag is a low base. You need a high base to line up to the other shaft. Or a spacer.

 

In general, if you create a separate thread and it seems useful to a few people we can add it to the first post in each monthly thread.

 

Why not use a spacer under the mag to get it to line up? Should be easy to get a measurement.

 

I still have the original hand and foot throttle in my town sedan with a burns intake and a Stromberg, I don't know if its as easy to set-up on a lhd car, but all I did was make a lever the switch the direction of the action and changed the sweep to the correct ratio

 

Stoked to be able to join in. I've posted this in another thread but I've just bought a really nice 30 coupe. Its got a few changes like 3 speed OD tranny, 12v alternator, 35 wires and Model B cam, carb and distributor and 6.1 head. I bought it off another HAMB member which is an added plus.

Im in Japan and will have the car shipped to me and at the same time would like to ship items Im likely to need over the next couple years, especially heavy stuff come with it but also general service items. The cars has done 8,000 miles since the motor and gearbox was built and it appears the current owner has really taken care of it.

Would really appreciate all and any advive on what I should buy, particularly from a maintenance perspective.

Thanks
Pete

 

Mechanical fuel pump, i need a fuel pump on my a and i don't like the electric ones. Did anybody modified any mechanical fuel pum to work on a model a ? i thought maybe with a excenter on the waterpump shaft ?

 

this looks and I say looks like a set up that was my HAL dohc engine I am no expert mine might have been from a tractor or something

 

One of the FAST members in Nor Cal has an "A" motor that he put a "B" camshaft in & cut a "window" at the right place in the "A" block to mount the "B" fuel pump onto the "A" block, & it's worked fine for years....

 

Ran across the Secrets of Speed index and thought some here might like access

https://www.secretsofspeed.com/

 

Got my roof overhead B engine finished

 

That thing looks killer!! I love the valve cover.

 

How “unobtainable” are these Frontenac Water pumps?

I found out you can use them combined with a side drive magneto!

 

That's not a Frontenac water pump, its a 1915 Dodge, the only year they were brass after that they were cast iron. The Frontenac pump was aluminum and was much different looking. I have one in the shop I will take a picture and post.

The mag mount is also different and you need the water tube casting from the pump to the side of the block. Oh, you could also drive a oil pump on the side.

 

Please don't use up that brass water pump for this. I have several cast iron ones if you want one.

 

Thanks for the info! Just going off what I’ve heard. Trying to find out as much as I can on this setup!

 

That was a photo I found on google, it’s not mine!

PMing you!

 

Dawg,
That you burnin rubber...with Banger ??

 

I have a model B distributor in an A coupe and would like to buy some service items to have on hand as I live in Japan. Have found a lot of the parts I need but then came across this conversion kit which was also suggested by the current owner.

https://www.earlyfordstore.com/coll...8-1934-4-cylinder-modern-cap-wires-conversion

Is anyone running this and if so what rotor cap etc does it need?

Thanks
Pete

 

I did this about a year ago on my bone stock Sport Coupe I had. I ordered everything from MACS and it worked out well.
Attached is a link to the rotor I used.
https://www.macsautoparts.com/distributor-rotor-4-cylinder-ford-model-b-47-26234-1.html

 

Cheers Retson!