1952-59 Ford 1956 Mercury engine swap options, anyone done a 400M?

As far as stick transmissions go, it looks like most of the Fairlane and Galaxie 3 and 4 speeds I have are 27.5 inches. A few inches shorter on transmission than would work with the original Merc driveshaft. But Merc driveshaft is only 54 1/8" after all, so getting a longer one is probably feasible. Have to modify that funky trans mount too though, that might be a challenge..

And the automatics...
Y block Mercomatic is 37 3/8" overall. (don't trust that one)
C6 for 351w pickup is 34" (SBF) (driveshaft several inches short..)
69 Galaxie C6 is 34" (FE) (driveshaft several inches short..)
71 Lincoln Mark 3 C6 is 37" (400M/460) (OK length if it fits tunnel...)
So, aside from the Lincoln trans, the same thing roughly. Will need a longer driveshaft whether goimg stick or automatic

Unless the 56 Merc T85 OD 34" long stick trans is used requiring a shorter driveshaft, everything else needs a longer driveshaft, but only a few inches. I do have some faux 70's toploaders (Granada 3 speed with OD) too, but those are only 24" long and condition is unknown. All those would require about a 6.5" longer driveshaft and trans mount adaptation would perhaps be more complex.

So after going through 2 garages, jammed full pole building and semi trailer to find and measure all this stuff, I think tomorrow I will go and find the extra 58 clutch and brake pedal****embly I have and see if that can be made to work.

If adapting that 58****embly looks too sketchy, then I may just go ahead and figure on using one of the C6's, unless someone else has a pedal****embly that would fit the Merc. But, if neither of those options pan out, that would eliminate the Y block from contention because I have no automatic that will fit it that I know works and I don't really care for the early cast iron FM to start with or to buy any more transmissions when I have so many already.

 

PS. I did find a 56 Merc advertised for sale with a 390/C6 in it. Pics even, but not any info on whether it was a relatively bolt-in install...

 

Pictures don't really show the exhaust manifolds but they are tucked pretty close to the heads on most FE engines I have seen and that makes them fit into 55/56 Fords very well. I have not done a Merc but I wouldn't think it would much different than a 55/56 Ford and a FE fits very well, almost a bolt in. I have never put a 400 in anything ever so don't know what that would involve. I worked in a Ford dealer in the 70's and the 351M/400 had a reputation of being a smog engine that didn't make much power and got bad mileage. According to an engine rebuilder I knew at the time Ford made many compromises for emissions that were not good choices and led to detonation issues. I would do the FE or the 351, my 55 has a 302 (replaced a 272) and it drags the car down the road quite well.

 

Yep, the 400M is an engine that was designed in the late 60's during the horsepower era and then choked down with emissions junk and retarded cam timing, lower CR and ended up being used mostly in trucks and barges like a 72 full size wagon I bought off a car lot for $275 in 1982.

But the basic design of the engine before being re-fitted as a smog engine was basically just a stroked 351c with more limited transmission options cuz the only year a 400M was produced with SBF bellhousing pattern was 1970.

My engine in pics was purchased for $10 at an auction sale as a takeout where someone replaced it with a 460. I basically copied this 1998 Hot Rod engine build article except for using and earlier 351c 2v head. Cheapest engine I ever built.

Here is the article link. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-9809-ford-406-engine-build/

 

But I am leaning toward the 390 cuz of the ease of engine mounts and variety of transmission choices I have on hand due to having 3 different FE bellhousings here (old 58-64 bell and flywheel, newer 65-up bell and flywheel, Lakewood FE bell that has both old and new trans mount patterns on it). Plus I have a rebuilt C6 that was originally on the 390. Everything but that 56 Merc T85 OD in 3 or 4 speed sticks or FE automatics is short by several inches though. The Lincoln Mark 3 C6 trans is long enough, but that only fits the 400.

Those FE log style manifolds are pretty restrictive compared to 400M manifolds though, so I think power wise the 400 seen would probably outperform the 390 as configured. The 351c with stock manifolds in my 55 Crown does clear the 55 stock steering sector too though and the Merc has a less intrusive 58 style 3 bolt top on it with a flat side toward the engine. Of course the inch taller deck of the 400 over the 351c would affect that too, but how remains to be seen.

Possibly the 390 would be close to a draw with the 400 for power cuz it is 9.5 CR and the 400 as configured is about 9.0. 390 is probably about 25 lbs heavier even with aluminum intake, but both are lighter than the Y block. Similar cams in both. 351w is lighter than all, but is totally stock except the intake. Both 390 and 400 would need to be put on run stand for cam break-in though. 351w is all ready to go off run stand, aside from a little cleanup.

Raining here today, so idk if I will get far on seeing if the 58 Ford clutch and brake pedals will adapt to the Merc. Anyone got a schematic of 55-56 Merc (or a Ford schematic is better than nothing) brake and clutch pedal****emblies handy? I saved a couple Ford truck hydraulic clutch mechanisms in case I can't make 57-58 Ford mechanical linkage work, so mainly interested in the pedal question at the moment.

 

I just took out a 400/c6 from my 56 Merc 2dht. It was originally in a 75 LTD. The left cast iron exhaust manifold touched the steering box even with mounting the engine 1 inch to the right. Wasn't happy with that setup. Located a rebuilt 58 Fairlane 292 / Fordomatic and installed that. Back to basics. My 2 pennys.

 

There we go on the original question, from experience.... 400 in a Merc. Won't work w/o headers or maybe 351c manifolds, cuz they are smaller profile. But, not by a lot..
Thanks. Oh well, maybe 400 in a 51 Victoria with S10 frame clip? Front steer...

I was cleaning up engine compartment and though I had looked at the front crossmember before, not completely... Don't trust it and working on that now. I see the Goodell $300 part is no longer available, but Tee Bird products has them for $425 + $38 shipping + tax. Inflation much?

With roughly 900 lbs off the car right now and comparatively easy access, now is when to fix that. So, did not do anything with clutch linkage other than check to see if frame rails had the frame side clutch pivot bracket mount provisions in it. It does.

But, on my 57 Ford I found did not have the threaded frame inserts for power steering like I****umed it would have. So, can't****ume too much on clutch either being very few 56 Mercs were sticks anyway. Far less than 57-58 Ford's with PS probably.

Please hold any impending safety lectures on crossmember fixes. Read many of them before. Been welding for more than half a century and 6 years of that I did it for a living.

 

Goodell passed on a year or so ago.

 

Yes, losing more and more of those sources... Dennis Carpenter also IIRC?

 

Here is my crossmember. I had only looked at this side while pulling motor.. Looks a little pitted but appears sound except at the very bottom in a few spots.

 

However on examining the other side..

 

Advantage to motor and trans out and less weight on it. Will replace in sections and do entire front and back. Welded braces to front of lower A arm bolt on the front and between A arm and sway bar bracket on the back. Since the right side is way worse than the left will attack that first.

 

Did not dare trying to get lower A arm bolts out because those are often seized in the sleeve and I could just envision me with a pipe on a breaker bar twisting the whole front right side out of whack cuz it is weakest there. Will tackle them when I know it can't move for sure after all sides are replaced.

Cut out rear right side and cleaned up in side and examined all 4 pieces that make up the crossmember. Top is fine even on the inside (so far anyway)... Front is weak obviously on lower half. Made a mistake and cut higher than needed on right side rear based on rust on front of crossmember in the same section. Top part was solid and put up a battle coming out.
But, will feel better with most of it all new anyway...

Cut out 11 gauge pieces for both rear sides. Piece of solid member removed from RR comes out at 14 gauge on my sheetmetal gauge. Figure to follow up with left rear, then with both ends being really solid in the back, will replace the center section, then bottom from end to end. And after all that is in place, then go around and cut out the front in 3 section piece by piece again. Fitzee method... Have a plan, but deal with just one issue at a time when you can.

Think I have all the support brace welds in places I can reach with grinder or cutoff wheel. Will coat the inside with Eastwood rust killer before welding the front pieces on. Not sure I have enough 11 gauge for all those pieces, but I have a sheet of 3/16 and not worried about adding a few lbs of weight, or any slight change in bottom of crossmember profile, cuz nothing attaches to the bottom.

 

Welded that one in, both inside and outside cuz access from the bottom and crossmember rear is solid from the outer edge of repair section going out toward main frame rail. Rest of the day will be doing the same to the driver side.

 

Ok thanks..

 

Well 2nd outer rear is welded inside and out same as first side. That sure went a lot faster than the first side, but plate was already cut and I kinda felt like I knew what I was doing after the other side. I am trying to blend in the original frame weld on the outer edges and welding to the big heavy insert that houses the lower control arm bolt on the inner edges with these small plates. Maybe welding a bit hot, but want no doubt about penetration.

Left side is a little better than the right, but floor of it still is pitted much of the way up to frame level. So those pieces (IDK how many yet) will be longer and go all the way across and be welded to outside frame rail on both sides, same as the 14 gauge tin that was on it.

Probably try to get the rear center cut out yet tonight, but center rear plate will probably take quite a while, so will call it a day once the rear center is out.

 

Well, there we go. Another pile of dirt, acorn shells, mouse***** and wet rust... Probably cut that line again tomorrow once I clean up the inside with my mini-belt sander and be sure anything that remains is solid. Even if what remains is solid, the crooked cut line offends me.

There was a mouse nest on passenger side too, but I extracted that through the rust holes front and bottom of crossmember. I had gone around pounding the bottom of crossmember with a pick hammer, at which point I concluded this was going to take some work and not just some patches, before I was confident in it.

Now I can see the whole backside of the crossmember front. Looks like I might need to take that out all the way to the top, but whatever... Pitting on the back of it goes within an inch of the top, and that is without whatever additional cleanup may reveal.

I will put drain holes on each side of lowest point in crossmember and make sure there are no holes big enough for a mouse to get in it and it should last another 65 years. Rest of car may not, but not cuz of crossmember.

 

Anyone know what the purpose of those tin umbrellas over the lower control arm bolt sleeve was for? Keep debris from around A arm mount point cuz rust potential? Used to define space needed during construction of the crossmember? Would think the welded-in sleeve for the bolt would serve to do that.

Thinking I may cut those out when the front is open, cut square or round tube to length and weld in to replace those....

 

Roger Goodell passed on almost two years ago, TeeBird bought up Goodells cross members, the last one available for the '54 Fords is listed on Ebay now there may be a few 55-56 ones left. If you can weld you can find links to the blue prints for cross members in the "Sticky FAQ" Or you could go all out and swap in the Ford Ranger front clip as per the discussion a few months ago and gain disc brakes and rack and pinion steering The later Ford Rangers have the same front track width as 1952-56 Fords and Mercs and the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern wheels.

 

Yes, I saw those and the 55 Victoria lengthy thread that included crosssmember repair for a member know as Hot Rod Reverend.

Here are some pics of his 55 Ford crossmember repair that I saved, though mine is maybe not quite as bad as his and I am taking a little different approach.

But essentially not replacing the whole crossmember in a similar but more extensive repair compared to what he had done. Most of it with both the front and back held in position by welded-on bracing in my case, and with A arms still on the car.

His had been patched previously, but mine had not, so I did not dare try to crank out the lower control arm front bolt on the passenger side lest I destroy the alignment of that sleeve in the crossmember as weak as it looked around that area. He probably got away with getting that often seized bolt out cuz his already had some sturdy patches welded in prior to his taking that bolt out and later realizing it needed more repairs.

First 2 pics are a stock 54 Ford cm pic off EBAY
Next 5 are HRR 55 Victoria cm pics
Last is my 56 Merc cm pics

Mine is progressing fine though so far, I think.. I will break that bolt loose once I have replaced the front, back and bottom of crossmember. Most of the way across the back, all the way across the bottom and all the way across the front. Seems easier than taking the whole thing out, plus $600 for a landed Goodell member. I had one that I paid $300 for, but sold it along with a 54 Merc.

IDK if that would have fit, but 54 Ford and 55-56 Merc are the same. 55-56 Ford are not the same. Position of the control arm bolt sleeve is high up on one crossmember lower on the other.

The HRR pics of 55 Victoria you can see the bolt hole is up high. On my crossmember you can see the bolt is low. That must be the difference, though it does not seem to ever be explained anywhere..

 

And here is the 54 Merc Goodell crossmember I had and sold.

That has the control arm bolts low in the crossmember, just like the 54 Ford and my 56 Merc.
55 and 56 Ford has those front mounting positions higher in the crossmember as shown in the HRR 55 Victoria pics..

 

I had seen a Ranger frame clip on a local street rod once before and that was the first time I realized they did not all have twin I beam suspension. This 56 Merc is more of a Roadkill type can-we-make-it-work project than a full-blown restomod project though. But, one thing leads to another. Have to take a look at that Volvo electric steering people have mentioned too and see what that involves.

 

Back side of crossmember is complete. Here is single pic before welding it on. Will take another of it welded on once bracing is out of the way. Ran out of welding wire, but had another spool on hand and got it all welded in back.

Center rear is welded inside too on both ends to the end pieces installed yesterday and all the pieces are welded directly to the heavy gauge diamond shaped locating parts for A arm bolts that Ford put on them when built. The center rear is still only welded on engine side, but all the way across. Will have access to weld that all the way across inside too, once center of bottom is removed where cowcatcher intrudes now.

I will have to cut off the cow-catcher on the front to access the bottom being it wraps around from front at top all the way to the bottom of crossmember.

Nothing mounts on that as on a 57 where the core support mounts on that. So, probably not essential and on the HRR 55 Victoria crossmember repair they left that off. I think that was part of crossmember stiffening Ford engineering though, given how thin metal the crossmember was to start with, so I will make one or modify one off a 57 cuz I have no other 54-56 Ford frames around here and prefer to have it on there.

So, going to go quick cut that cowcatcher off before it gets dark, being the rear side is very solid now. I will leave my welded-on bracing on still though. At least until the bottom is on, then replace the center on front so it can't go anywhere. That can be mostly welded before taking off the outer front bracing and replacing the outer front sections.

At that point I will decide whether to cut off the rebar welded on the centers of the front lower control arm bolts and the angle iron welded on the rear before or after a substitute cowcatcher is put back on. Could probably do either way, but it would be easier to grind the weld off the bolt heads with it off I think...

 

Cowcatcher is off. Looks like whole front is partially rotted right to the top. Will remove the lip and all of front pieces****uming I can get at it and then cut the replacement front pieces from industrial shelving that has formed corners so I can reproduce the top lip right angle bend without having to bend the heavy metal for front pieces.

Did that with the back center piece also, but only left a 1/4 lip and welded along that line to the underside of the roughly 3/4 inch of good top left on rear of crossmember. Will leave a lip on front pieces to rosette weld back to the top plate of crossmember. Which is all good. Shines right up with my mini belt sander inserted up from open bottom.

Bet you southwest 54-56 owners are glad you don't have to deal with this stuff and fellow rust belt owners don't want to take a pick hammer or bore scope and see how good your crossmember really is inside.

Welding and grinding mostly from below is not ideal. But, it is going well aside from the huge time investment.

 

Found out the industrial shelving material was twisted, so rather than deal with out of whack material dimensions plus a lot of paint and stickers to remove I went back to the scrap pile.

Realized my front bracing square tubing was 2 1/2" and was also 11 gauge, just like the rear pieces I cut from old riding lawnmower parts. No paint, and plenty leftovers of this from engine run stand I built a few years ago. The thinking with the square tubing was if I cut it lengthwise I had ready made corners.

So, went and cut some to length with bandsaw and cut them in half lengthwise with a thin disk grinder. Grinder is way faster than the saw, though debris flying everywhere...

Had to think about it for a while cuz I didn't want to paint myself in a corner as far as access to the inside for additional welding and cleanup. Took out the rusty tin umbrellas and will put in heavier inside supports from the front. More cleanup with minibelt sander inside the crossmember preceded making 3 more pieces.

Last night got the center rear and bottom piece in. Welded to the diamond shaped front bolt sleeve heavy pieces which have remained in place and just needed some rust ground off.

Today I made the bottom and partial front of the rear outside pieces. The crossmember height is about 3 1/2", so will have to do a***** or lap weld on the front to get back to that height. So, I chose to cut the part extending to the front to a 1" height.

This will give me roughly 2 1/2" access from the front after I cut out the rest of the front. Should be enough room to get at the inside and allowed me to weld the rear and bottom 3 sections to the front gusset holding the bolt sleeve in position too.

So, it should be more than strong enough after welding these in fully to cut out my rebar tomorrow and finish the front center section. Perhaps put my replacement cowcatcher on the front while I am there.

Then cut off my square tubing outside braces in order to have access to the front. But, it should be very strong at that point with center 100% done and the outsides 3/4 done with heavier metal and welded both sides the full length of the crossmember.

Also drilled 5 drain holes across bottom center piece, plus 2 more at bottom of each side piece. Not sure if I should fill that factory hole at top center of crossmember. Nice of Ford to put a drain there that feeds directly to center of crossmember right underneath it. Scratching my head on that idea...

 

Looks good in there. Tighter than I would have thought.

 

Clearance to the firewall is different than on a stock Y Block due to the cylinder head offset being the opposite on most modern Ford engines. By offset I am talking about which head sits farther forward (left bank vs right), I think the factory placed some offset in the firewall for that and it makes the left side very close as opposed to the right side with the 302/351 and others. You can see it in the pictures Jimmy Six posted.

 

Very good point... I went and looked at some engines.

Left head further forward than right:
Y block
SBC
BBC
Chev 348-409
Buick 455
Desoto 330 & 341 hemi
Dodge 315 & 325 hemi

Expected given the ancient origins of the FE and MEL may be in that group too, but nope..

Left head further back than right:
SBF
351C & 400M
FE
MEL

Another piece of the puzzle...

 

I cut the rebar off the front bolts after welding the last of the rear and bottom last night. Left the outer braces welded to those bolts until I finish the front center.

Need to do some more cleanup and grinding, plus Eastwood rust killer on the center top and weld thru primer on all the new inside metal.

Then make the top part of center front and a couple interior braces before closing up the front center. Current plan is to rosette weld the top from underneath with welds placed closer together than the factory 2 7/8" inch spaced spot welds.

Will***** weld the width of front center with the upper and lower horizontal edges ground to roughly a 45 degree beveled edge for full penetration and a place for the bead to reside. The cowcatcher will cover this weld almost entirely anyway, though..

Then the cowcatcher, at which point the outboard braces will have to come off to get at the front sides. Don't think there is any way for those bolts to move with center fully welded as it will be much stronger than original.

I see a light at the end of the tunnel...

 

Too hot out though, will call it a day soon.