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Technical CVR/Ford STARTER with Ford solenoid

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by cammer8, Jul 5, 2021.

  1. cammer8
    Joined: Aug 1, 2016
    Posts: 61

    cammer8

    16255236411022436549905001975964.jpg I bought a CVR high torque starter for my 302 Ford I'm putting in my 1934 Ford. I don't understand the attached diagram! The Ford starter solenoid has two main lugs for battery cables and an "s" and "i" posts which are smaller. I don't understand the line crossing the two main lugs and which are the s and i posts.? My starter works fine but I'm getting no juice to distributor when cranking. Lay off the start position on the key and return to ignition and getting full 12 volts. I under stand moving battery cable over to opposite side. Why am I not getting juice to distributor while cranking? Am also running a pointless distributor
     
  2. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,339

    sunbeam
    Member

    The way that's wired the only thing the Ford solenoid is doing is is supplying voltage to bypass the resister while cranking . Are you sure the wire from the ignition switch is going the S terminal on the ford solenoid and not the I terminal.
     
  3. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 1,362

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    I don't understand it either! Jumping the two big terminals, of the ford solenoid, together does not make a lot of sense... But what do I know - I've only installed 5 or 6 ford solenoids in non-Fords (and never take wiring advice from a retired electrical engineer ;)).
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,980

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    it makes sense to me. Show us a photograph of how you have yours wired, maybe we can see what you did wrong?
     
    sunbeam likes this.
  5. The point to the new starter is to no longer need the original solenoid. The diagram is using the start function to energize both of the solenoids. The original is being used for the start function to the coil. If your ignition switch is wired properly, your coil should have voltage in both start and run positions. The i position on the original solenoid is to provide a full 12 volts when cranking. The s position is what energizes the solenoid to transfer current.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  6. cammer8
    Joined: Aug 1, 2016
    Posts: 61

    cammer8

     
  7. cammer8
    Joined: Aug 1, 2016
    Posts: 61

    cammer8

    Ok
    If I'm reading it right -- one of the big lugs is left open. The "s" terminal is on the top and supplies trigger to The starter. The ignition "i" terminal is on the bottom. At t he present I have nothing on the "i" post which I take it supplies power to distributor while cranking? Then after releasing the key to ignition power is sustained to distributor?
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 57,980

    squirrel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    that's right.
     
  9. cammer8
    Joined: Aug 1, 2016
    Posts: 61

    cammer8

    Thanks to all!! I ran a wire from the "i" post to the positive side of coil and it fired right up!! The part that threw me was info that stated that if your running a pointless distributor you don't need to use the "i" terminal on the Ford solenoid. In that application the distributor must be getting power while cranking from another source!! Thanks again.
     
  10. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,630

    Boneyard51
    Member

    You could also put the starter exciter wire to the right side big terminal of the Ford solenoid to take some load off the ignition switch and give the starter solenoid a stronger signal . You would need to eliminate the wire between the big posts , if there is one there. There is no reason to have one there.








    Bones
     
    deathrowdave and ffr1222k like this.
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,120

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That may be one of the ignition switches that doesn't put power to the coil in start position.
    I've run into it on a few rigs that wouldn't start when they were cranking but sometimes fired up when you let off the key and it went to run position. In every one the resistor bypass wire wasn't hooked up.

    Their setup is really simple if you are going from a regular Ford starter to the CVR starter as you just move the cable from the Ford solenoid to the other side and add the solenoid wire from the S post on the Ford starter to the CVR starter only requiring adding that one wire to do the job. One length of wire, two terminals and done.
     

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