Projects Belly Tank Build, NZ.

And from the front. Next will be to take it off the stands, bolt the rear axle in and start working out motor and g-box mounts. Then i can sit the motor etc in and work something else out, moving forward. JW

 

Put the lower half of the body on today to check i had a small amount of clearance between the body and hoops, mostly good with two being a bit close for my liking so will adjust and tack them on soon. JW

 

You are getting a lot done now.

 

Thanks, it's exciting seeing it go from dream to reality...finally. JW

 

Got the lower hoops all tacked in and went over all the other tack welds and gave them a bit more so nothing springs on me. JW

 

Also started sorting the front axle. Although the axle looks Model A it is from a Fordson pick up, an English vehicle, the axle fits Ford V-8 spindles, king pins and 35 onward radius rods. It is narrower than an A and will line up well with the width of the rear axle. JW

 

Checking how the seat now fits and the front top hoop is too far back when lined up with the other bits so i will see if i can reshape it to lean forward. This hoop will mount the short steering column, dash and a couple of handles to help get myself in and out. I may move the steering box down a bit, will see my feet fit up front first. JW

 

Coming along nice, lots of progress. Whats your plan with the steering linkage? mine is similar in that its quite high compared to the axle, I've seen other tanks run a s shape drag link, but not sure what I'm gonna do.

 

It will be as you said and that is why i may move the steering box down a bit. I have also had a steering arm made to mount on the top of the spindle to help reduce the angle of the cross steer. The axle is sitting about 2- 2 1/2 inches to low in the photo, need to drill more adjustment holes. So far the frame is near the same weight as 37 Willys chassis. JW

 

Jamie, this is what i have set up for the left side spindle. I will bend the top arm up till its level and parallel with the frame. The drag link will drop down from over the top chassis rail to meet the arm. JW

 

And from the front. I had planned to have the tie rod behind the axle but had to change that as my feet would be sharing the same space. I am not concerned with correct Ackerman as i dont intend cornering at speed. JW

 

First time i have had the top on, or is it the bottom on the top? JW

 

The Evolution of Wild...Continues...Your the Baffle......I mean Pilot in the Tank.........Belly Tank...Remember that Thread...

They're all wild but these vintage WW11 bullets are a Tight Package...love the progress JW...actually Smokin Progress!!

 

Thanks, Stogy, i may have to post something on that thread to keep it alive. This Tank body has an extra 20'' added so it shouldn't be that tight but it is. The Willys 4cyl is not much (if any)shorter than a V-8. JW

 

My inspiration, well model of! I got it at So Cal Speed Shop Ca on our last trip over to Bonneville (2019). JW

 

This is similar to how my cross steer will be except behind the axle. JW

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Where do you plan on mounting the fire bottles? On ours we have room above the drivers legs laying horizontal and directly behind the cage sitting vertically

 

That looks good I hadn't thought of mounting a steering arm above the axle, I've got the stock ford arm on the bottom cast with the spindle but could just use that for the track rod and mount an extra steering arm ontop like youve done.

 

I had this set up in mind but will see as i want one of them up front, most likely behind the seat down low. JW

 

Now the fun begins.....10# of shit in a 5# box

 

My fuel tank will be a cone shaped item mounted behind the rear axle so there will be some room in the engine bay and being a narrow motor there is room on the sides although i MAY mount the radiator parallel and beside the the motor on the right side, this will mean i can move the seat back 3-4 inches if needed. JW

 

Beautiful job! If I'd try that you couldn't recognize it for the globs of glue.

To get it more authentic after all that work, you need to change the lettering.
B/SR is a unblown B-engined Street Roadster.
Perhaps B(or A, I can't measure the engine)/ B(blown, nothing for unblown) G(for Gas, F for Fuel) L Lakester. --- B/BGL

 

Got the driveshaft mocked up, all 2 1/2 inches of it. JW

 

And in position. This will give me a bit of flexibility with motor and g-box mounts. I plan on getting it all lined up within 1 degree or so. Will fit a new cross before its needed. As i have said before, it is by chance that the pinion and g-box flanges are the same size and same bolt pattern. JW

 

I was starting to run into clearance issues with the front spring and the frame. Made the gussets at work and cut a relief in the frame, just needs a final trim up and will make some weld in bits. JW

 

I can't imagine it being much shorter...Wow...This is a fixed driveline with Front Suspension correct...

That being considered makes it pretty much direct drive no pinion angles to contemplate. A bit like an Old Harley Hydra Glide...Butt......it had a sprung weight adjustable seat post...

Are you going to have suspension in the seat...did they do that back then or was it true Hardass so to speak?

How long is the run in minutes and seconds approx at 145mph for a round about really respectable introduction...

A different way of understanding the magnitude of the experience and how long the body has to endure the partial suspension?

That's a math question I could probably figure out but I'd fail right now...

 

Yes, basically a fixed drive line that i can move it all up and down to adjust for tire size as this is my only way to change the final drive ratio.(axle=3.55:1)
The seat will be fixed as if it was sprung the harness would not hold you firm and the surface you run on won't be as bad as NZ's shit roads and at least i will be near the sprung end.
At 145 mph i would be covering a mile in a bit over 20 seconds, the lead up and run off is anyones guess but i would say all up less than four minutes....all going to plan. The ride may be similar to my RPU. JW

 

I am really impressed by your build.
More and less everything has to be modyfied or handcrafted to work.

 

Thanks and i enjoy hand crafting things for all my builds. JW

 

DIY Greek Coupler!