Technical Radiator Cap PSI - Now Plugged Radiator

Whenever possible, that's my favorite way to learn stuff . . .

 

OK I must have misunderstood but I know he said it's a different type of core than modern radiators and he only knew of one suppliers who still makes that type.

That radiator pictures looks the bottom left mount is missing.

 

Maybe he referred to cross flow vs yours, the cross flows have the tanks on the sides.

 

Did my 51 merc radiator about 5 yrs ago for $125

 

Good results so far!! I would keep repeating the vinegar treatment until the drain water is clear. Then hit it with a few baking soda flushes. Use ONLY distilled water with your antifreeze fill up. Good luck.

 

This link shows the same core that the OP has in his radiator as an original 56 Corvette 56H radiator.
eBay item number:
114482703265
What The GM heritage site refers to as a Cellular core. Page 7 pages (gmheritagecenter.com)
The one John Lee Wilson showed has the correct tank numbers on the tag but has either had the core replaced or is newer over the counter at the dealer replacement.

There is only one radiator shop that actually repairs radiators or replaces cores left within 50 miles of me and they are so busy with heavy equipment radiators and big truck radiators they don't even want to talk to you about most car or pickup radiators.

 

Lye?

 

Why would he?

 

Cellular core, that must be what he was saying, sorry. They are apparently much harder to solder to the tanks, having a very thin edge, not the thick flange the newer cores have. He showed me examples of both.

Look closely at the two radiators pictured above. The one with the tubular core has a thick flange where it's attached to the tank, the other does not.

Found this online:

Types of Radiator
There are two basic types of radiator

1. Tubular type
2. Cellular type

Tubular Type Core
In tubular type core, the upper and lower tanks are connected by a series of tubes through which water passes. Fins are placed around the tubes to improve heat transfer. Air passes around the outside of the tubes, between the fins, absorbing heat from the water in passing.

In a tubular radiator, because the water passes through all the tubes, if one tube becomes clogged, the cooling effect of the entire tube is lost. In a cellular. radiator, the clogging of any passage results in a loss but of a small part of the total cooling surface.

Cellular Type Core
In cellular type core, air passes through the tubes and the water flows in the spaces between them.

The core is composed of a large number of individual air cells which are surrounded by water. Because of its appearance, the cellular type usually is known as a honeycomb radiator, especially when the cells in front are hexagonal in form.

In a cellular. radiator, the clogging of any passage results in a loss but of a small part of the total cooling surface.

https://www.theengineerspost.com/radiator-working-system/

Maybe the other old radiators that have been rodded out already had tubular cores installed. This is what Clint recommended doing, unless originality is that important.

 

You definitely have a honeycomb radiator. They are difficult to repair because you Can't rod them out. Rodding out is angioplasty to radiators. The old rad gets plugged up with deposits over time and you can only solder to clean metal so fixing leaks is like a coin toss. Just face the inevitable and spring for a new one.

 

Thanks. Yep Clint said the same thing, very tough to solder compared to the tubular cores. New (or new core with my old tanks) is a definite, but I'm going to take the opportunity now to give the engine as thorough an inspection and flush before a new one goes in.

 

I always thought this was a honeycomb radiator core.

 

It IS! Corvettes do NOT have honeycomb radiators.

 

I always thought Honeycomb was a Jimmy Rodgers song

 

Thanks a lot, asshole! LOL. Now I got an earworm. Right back at ya!!

 

Pulled my old radiator out again today. For the great honeycomb debate, here is a close up photo. Does make a honeycomb, sort of. Definitely not straight tubes you could run a rod through.

Anyway I tested it again, against a new spare radiator I have for my Bantam. Filling both with water, the water rushes out the new radiator at what must be twice the volume. I might spend another 3 bucks on vinegar and let it soak for a week this time, but a new radiator is likely in the works.

Options
1. New honeycomb core with my old tanks or new tubular core with my old tanks. About a grand either way. Clint said with a tubular core he can add up to 4 rows. What's good, 2-3-4?

2 New DeWitts brass copper radiator. Also about a grand. Looks like stock, minus tags.

3 The repop brass and copper sold by the Corvette suppliers. About $400, looks stock, likely Chinese.

4 Aluminum, ranging from $200-$400, also likely Chinese.

Decisions.. I'd like to have my stock tanks but this car will never win at Bowling Green or wherever that place is. What cools the best?

 

Sorry to do that to you, 'cause your comment brought it into MY head now!

 

I would go with a tube and fin new rad. Chances are, the old tanks have fatigue cracks anyhow.

 

Get's easier each time, don't it?

 

Yep, good thought. Thanks.

Champion doesn't list a C1 radiator. But yeah, 3 row should be enough.

It's actually pretty easy as radiators go, except the front hinge hood is in the way.

 

So I was showing my wife the picture of your car (with the dog I knew she would like it) and telling her how much I envy the guys on here who have scored cool old Corvettes in the last year or so when it occurred to me; did you ever tell us the story of how you came upon that jewel? The car looks just perfect in that picture, if it was mine I’d make it reliable and drive it.

 

Thanks! Yep sure did

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/corvette-you-know-what-ykw-find.1218394/

 

I recall that thread. You pulled it out with a garden tractor as I recall.

 

I'm talking about the highly caustic cleaner.

"Lyes are also valued for their cleaning effects. Sodium hydroxide is commonly the major constituent in commercial and industrial oven cleaners and clogged drain openers, due to its grease-dissolving abilities. Lyes decompose greases via alkaline ester hydrolysis, yielding water-soluble residues that are easily removed by rinsing."

 

Mercy. Love me a good lay, er lye?

 

I have a love/hate relationship with lye... works great, wrecks your hands when you are careless.

Here's a useful tip for an antidote: keep a little vinegar dispenser bottle handy and if you get any lye or other alkali on your skin, sprinkle a little vinegar on it and rub in. It will neutralize the alkali and stop it from continuing to attack. You'll know it's working because the sliminess of the alkali will pretty much instantly disappear.

 

Last week I was soaking the radiator, while waiting for some starter parts, only I cleaned it too well, as water started coming out of several places it's not supposed to. So I threw in the towel and took it to Penkey Radiator in Hayward. 500 clams later I have a new core with the old tanks. Installing this weekend. It will be the shiniest part on the whole car. Saw this painting on a building down the street.

 

Good news! Got the radiator back in, took my usual 5 mile run to town and back, 160 degrees. I put a screen in to catch any remaining chunks of debris. Next step is a longer ride and if all good put in a thermostat and coolant.