Well, I may have another project soon. My cousin in Montana is interested in buying a boat in my area. He has asked if I would be interested in going to take a look, buying the boat and towing it to MT. What do I get in return? He has offered to give me his A Roadster. I'll start another thread on that, but thought I'd announce it here to create the link between the two...Here's a couple of pictures of the Roadster, and of the boat I'll be "trading" for it.
Damn! You got the better end of that trade Jeff. Help him transport a boat that ain't yours in exchange for that cool Model A roadster...yeah, that's a win. Of course he is your brother, so there's that. Gotta come and check out that Model A when you get it home.
I'll let you know when it's home. I'll have to find a time between my travels to make the trip...BEFORE WINTER SETS IN! Well, I DO have to buy the boat. So I get the A for whatever I pay for the boat...(I think I'm still getting the better deal)...
He’s never really been a hot rod type. I was surprised he bought it. The car has glass rear fenders and the rumble was converted into a trunk. Other than that, I think it’s all stock.
Hoping I can get some guidance from the almighty HAMB on this one. My truck has been overheating recently. It is also starting a bit hard. It was suggested that I check the points. Today, I pulled the distributor to check the points. They do have some pitting (crappy pics on next post). And, the point gap is only .008-.010". That's low compared to VanPelt's, who says it should be .014-.106". Bubba rebuilt this distributor about 6-7 years ago if that helps. Questions: 1) Hard to tell from these crappy pics, but should I replace the points? I'm thinking since I've already got the dizzy out, I should. But, that begs the following question b) IF I remember correctly, changing the points means setting advance again. Since I don't know where TDC is on this flathead, and it doesn't have a mark, I'm thinking that might be more trouble than it's worth, unless anyone has any input on this one. This brings me to the third question 3) Should I just use an old school emory board to clean up the points, set the gap and run it to see if that solves my problem? Cheers!
Just found and bought this 34PU all apart!! Old WA State rod Anyone remember it- has 'Stacks' reuse?? Newc
I got the points set, distributor timing set, and back in the truck. Put everything back together and it fired right up. Runs well at idle and advance looks right at fast idle. I'll take it for a ride this weekend to see if this solved the overheating issue. It seems to start a bit easier as well, but it's hard to tell. Maybe I just want to think it's starting easier...
Jeff, Your radiator needs a residual valve attached to your overflow hose. I wouldn’t add a recovery tank. Not needed. Preferably a 4 pound pressure release valve. But they are hard to find. I’ve installed a 2 pound brake residual valve on my 34 truck and it does the same thing. That radiator will not pressurize without a valve. Pressuring increases the boiling point but more importantly it slows the loss of coolant when your running full speed. You won’t believe the difference.
I've been battling a fuel leak for a while, and yesterday I tried to get it fixed up. I have a fuel filter, fuel pump, and regulator (in that order) inside the frame rail on the driver's side of the truck. When I disconnected the line between the pump and the regulator, gas was draining from the tank through the line. I'd like to replace all the hoses and the filter, but I'd rather not drain the tank. If I blow air back through the line from the engine end and purge the line, will that stop the constant dripping, or will it start to syphon again? Thanks.
Use hard lines, preferably the copper/nickel alloy type. Easy to work with. Install a rubber hose at the tank outlet and clamp it with a pair of vise grips while installing the new line. I ran some short rubber line off of the hard line for my pump and regulator for the ease of replacement.
I used copper nickel lines. Worked great. I didn't put a rubber hose between the tank and the filter (dang). And, to get to that place, I need to remove the bed.
Jeff, thanks for keeping your thread going. I, like many others on here am jealous of your exceedingly original truck.
The Jalopy Journal
