Technical Meet Flo !

Hello Everyone ,
In May I picked up Flathead Freddie for a 32 Tudor project . That engine is still in teardown process so went to my source for that engine for a little shop talk and my source said another 8RT had come his way so I asked what he wants to do with it and said he didn't really know yet so upon reading the castings heads dated January 23 1953 according to my code research and thought how lucky to have two available another exact 8RT like Freddie so rented another UHaul and here it is now since the second . So took a head off this afternoon and saw evidence of a 30 over rebuild with complete valve replacement . That rebuild has been lived out nicely but does have seized cylinders where this engine also was stored outside without spark plugs or carb but way much drier than Freddie . In having to cut pistons out of Freddie and maybe just two pistons seized on this one . Plan on a stock rebuild here and either get a 53 truck or make a speedster for Erika so stock is fine for her . Everyone have a nice evening and hope all are well .
Anthony and Erika

 

Get a can of Kroil and soak the daylights out of it and be patient.
Enjoy the journey.

 

Thank you I will get some online . I did spray cylinders and valves and deck with SeaFoam Deep Creep today . It's a younger rebuild then what I first thought there is still moly all over the valley and call valve assemblies are very new looks so far to have 30k -50k miles on this rebuild . Look closely at the generator pulley it's quite possible this motor was pulled from a wreck after the rebuild . Someone built the engine right and proper.

 

ATF/Acetone in a 50:50 mix is great at busting rust...

 

Kroil is the gift from the gods of rust!

 

Sounds like a great way to clean ! I have to get some got lots of parts two flatties being resurrected right now

 

God's elixir for next months planning I've heard a couple people and also my parts source uses it but till then I will finish off my SeaFoam Deep Creep can . Also going to try the ATF/Acetone mix . There are many parts so quality and money balance are both at hand here . These engines deserve extra proper treatment they really something

 

So here 8s today's update . Some of these head bolts groaned and some were looser than others . This is a sign that either torque was not met properly or no 9ne retorqued . The head gasket was intact but rusty markings on gasket face . That's minor now that I cleaned up the left deck today and cyl 5 6 7 8 . The piston accumulator area is very nice indeed . Yes the all asked question , "How many ...?? "
The answer is 3 . 2 broke loose a smidgeon and one fully froze . On right bank broke 2 for total of 5 broken head bolts . No cracks in left deck . Absolutely perfect deck . Check out these .030 over silicon popups cylinder walls fine slight ridge so MAYBE 30,000 on rebuild ? What do you think ? Here in order are cylinders 5-8 . Everyone enjoy your evening and stay well . Thank you
Anthony

 

That last one looks a little off. How bad is the pitting?
If you use the ATF/Acetone always shake the container if it's been standing awhile.

 

Hi Everyone ,can you please ID the engine # all my sources are vague at the moment and figured someone knows this engine # code .Thank you and Flo is cleaning up just fine and the right side deck looks like a hairline in the water jacket to head bolt area below the valves between cyl 1 and 2 and the other between cyl 3 and 4 . Have a nice wvening

 

Hi Flo

 

Hi Budget 36

 

This is surface scarring no pits a honing will rid all are alit less than half a thousandth and maybe ten over rings are necessary . The bad one is on the other bank it's spark plug had been left out so I slathered all cylinders with the Sea Foam Deep Creep I've been using . It's cleaned the cylinders well . I will let it all soak for a couple days so we see . If the cylinder on the other side cleans up it is a miracle but patience will be the one for that .

 

Ok I see you are looking at the cylinder 2 from the picture I took after the first dose of penatrant . This I did clean lightly with rags shop towels and then a stainless steel brush and most rust has cleared up on this cylnder but not all so am soaking again . I'd I can bring back the silicon properties which have been transferred from the piston to the cylinder wall through the years then I will hone it and consider 10 over if necessary . To me it's still early in the game and so yes it's still rough but not deep . I may be able to save the #2 cylinder and will know if more damage is cleared in a couple days . So I shall return to Freddie and cut out more pistons with the SawsAll . It's also but that's just fine . Everyone have a nice evening .

 

Hello Everyone , hope you are well and healthy and safe as we all still need be concerned and understanding with patience . So GREAT NEWS !!! and ELATION !!! Flo , with a little jiggling with a bar wedged between flywheel teeth softly and undramatically broke loose yesterday afternoon and I only turned her 4 teeth then came back today to do cleaning of the accumulator area above the top ring and between the piston and cylinder . Yes there is darkened markings on the cylinders where the rings had fused to the cylinder wall but all the penetrant and soaking and tapping and patience did pay off . I've yet to turn over a full revolution as I am still cleaning piston tops with Steel Wool 00 but all is smooth right now . Cylinder wall #1 has a light pitted area and am going to clean it up with a fine hone job ( no criss cross marks since rings are already matched to a smooth cyl surface ) perhaps a hand honing with Emory 500 then 2000 and leave it be . So bottom end and valves all working very smoothly not a scuffing noise or sticking noise . Yes I will take a compression test after reassembly . Still alot to do so to look nice AND run nice has to go hand in hand so if I can get Flo on a test bench by March completely finished I will be happy indeed . I believe the rings will either form in nicely and accept the small questionable areas in about 300 miles for proper reseating or reject my hand honing prowess and do a upper bottom end . I'm not even going to cut the ridge it's only about .005 " . So I say , "YES FLO'S A RUNNER !!! I thank all of you for your advise and kindness and interest . Keep your foot in it !

 

Hi Everyone and thank you for your interest and replies filled with knowledge and experience . I am going purely old fashioned here with removing broken head bolts . Welding nuts on brings block temperatures way beyond 700 and even though itsomentarily I'm not going to crystalize or Martensite my block today . My same rules with Freddie go for Flo . So yes I am going to start with the bolt next to cylinder #8 located at 2-3 I clock . These bolt sheared real easy so have no tensile or compression strength in them anymore or someone didn't use a torque wrench I don't know just know heads are looking good no visible damage on them so I'm going to start drilling . I've been doing broken Flathead studs since I was 12 , my grandfather teaching me by telling me to be careful and it's going to take awhile ( on my 221 was 11 broken head studs and crystallized some were ) . I spent 2-3 months on those so hope these go a little quicker . The protractor in the picture is to keep a check On at the right angle so let's see if I can save the threads and not get any cracks . Thank you and please do reply I'd really like to hear your stories and comments on this one . Oh yes one stud is broken deep , it's last inch is in the block . Have a swell evening

 

Do what @Mart did (I used his idea recently) drill a tight fitting hole on a length of flat bar. Weld the stud to the bar. (Through the hole). Let it cool.
Start wiggling the bar and work the stud/broken bolt out.
Very little heat actually gets to the block, but the bolt gets hot, expands and contracts when cooled and hopefully breaks the rust bond.

Edit: Put the easy outs away

 

Yeah Mart has several videos on YouTube .
I think they are titled crusty flatty,,,,,or something like that .
He got a bunch of broken studs from a block,,,,made it look easy .
Seemed like he used candle wax or something.

Tommy

 

With a lot of studs/bolts to drill, you might give some thought to building a drill guide that would have a big enough footprint to sit squarely over a fair large area of the block and ensure the drill goes 90* to the head face. It wouldn't help much in centering the bit, but would take out the perpendicularity issue.

 

Don't need to put it away , most of it is in the scrap can , the rest of it is now stuck in the bolt

 

Not buying another one

 

Thank you Tommy I'm going to check thru it on you tube . Have a swell evening

 

Ok makes sense but not much to grab and one is set deep in the block

 

Great thought and definitely going to use it for future engines . Going to draw one up Tonite and go to Weldy School tomorrow and start building one . I got some drill guide inserts at. Freddie and Flo's . It's always fun building tools and jigs

 

Ah it seems I recall a vid or two with an English guy in it seemed sound advice for an English haha I used to race against Limeys in sidecarcross racing aka sidehack top of the hat tricks some of them

 

I had never heard of this until I joined up here, now I keep a couple of spray bottles mixed up in the shop. Never dreamed it could work as good as it does.

 

I remember this video now yes indeed when I popped Flo's heads off these head bolts were like butter no mechanical properties left in the material and all of the bolt that came out intact were screaming and many I had to work back and forth due to the fact that Flo's heads had been off at least the two times to my knowledge as I can see once through a valve job and then a rebuild and now me removing these bolts . Flo's head bolts had never been replaced , so when they started shearing I thought about how I know how to remove the stubs and out of curiosity and searching for another approach I did a search engine after trying HAMB and yes the English guys video did pop up , I watched it and dismissed it as exactly what you said of him making it look easy and yes he had done. bunch of them . What made me dismissnhis video is the ease of which his bolts came out . It took me two days to take Flo's out it was quite a workout and I'm 6' 200 lbs of racing muscle . The English guy his bolts weren't really making much noise and Flo's bolts were screeching so that it echoed and that was after a couple weeks of penetrating oil multiple times . I used a 3 ft breaker bar and a 3/4 rachet and tapped them also with my array of hammers . One thing is someone before me should have replaced the bolts and was cheap about so the material was below tensile strength and ductility was zero . I havenothing to work with here except Playdoe . Funny before I left the engines after breaking off the Easyout I did drill through two of the three broken stubs so I can cave them in and penetrate oil some more . Ya like you said Tommy it looked to easy and his bolts weren't noisy and no real power was out into his project . So I'm drilling out to the threads collapsing and penetrating but I promise I will use the English guys process on the other bank and we see how effective it really is . Have a nice evening

 

" perpendicularity ". If that's not a word it should be. Describes the problem to a T.

 

Like ' Supercalifragilistic '