I just finished installing a Wilwood front disc conversion kit and also the Wilwood mustang master cylinder kit with proportioning valve. I bought it right after I got it in March as it was on sale and I knew I was going to do it eventually. This was sooner than expected but I needed new rims as the front driver had loose lug nuts that wallowed out the holes and ruined the studs also they are rusty chrome and didn't like them. I also needed tires as they were from 2012 and cheap imports. Definitely worth it. Very easy to install as its a very high quality kit and includes everything you need plus wheel spacers if you need them. It brakes so much better and with the new wheels and tires it tracks better too. The engine compartment will get detailed when I do the steering box that is waiting to go in and ceramic coated and polished exhaust manifolds at the same time. If you have any specific questions ask away. Here are some photos.
They are great and I sure like mine. I’m glad it went ez as mine did too. I started checking the temp of the MC and didn’t like it even tho I know the fluid is ok. Prestige Thunderbird in SanteFeSprings Ca has a longer heat deflector because the birds MC is even closer. I added a piece of silver heat reflecting insulation tape I bought from Home Depot after I painted it BBQ black. I also added a side one for the prop valve I don’t know if they are needed or not. Funny observation: the spindle brackets are made so you can mount the calipers to the front or rear. I chose rear. The spacers were not needed on mine either and are sure high quality.
No it uses the stock spindles. I did use one of the provided 2.5mm spacers, they include 4, as I felt the wheels were a little too close to the original wheels.
I too am thinking about heat shields but wanted to wait until I was done with the shake down to check for leaks. I may move mine to the rear as the elbow for the line at the caliper hits the sway bar end link and pushes it about an eighth of an inch at full lock. I used one spacer because the OG wheels are really close to the calipers.
Cool man, got mine in now just gotta run some lines, how did you guys set up your brake light switch???
The proportioning valve came with the switch installed. Just needed to change my original bullet type to the female spade connector on the wires
I took off the original one and installed where a plug was. If I just barely use my brakes to stop the brake lights don’t come on. I’m thinking of installing a switch on the pedal.
Thanks guys, sounds like with the new brakes I won’t have to start braking three blocks before the stoplights any more
Hey MJW, FYI I just finished the Borgensen power steering set up for our cars……. A little more work than anticipated. Any way you said in your post you are gonna change over to power steering let me know if ya got any ?’s J59
Thanks for the offer, I'm planning on doing an electric one first and then if I don't like it I will try the Borgensen. I got a rebuilt Tbird box on the cheap. It also uses a two piece steering shaft with a splined coupler so there will be some fab work to use the original column. This is probably a few years down the road as the manual steering with skinny radials is not to bad. .
My '68 mustang had the switch mounted on the pedal arm and was adjustable. I used the same setup on my Model A roadster as I kept the original mechanical brakes and the original style switch was really a pain to adjust. The pressure switches can be real hit or miss on quality. The one that came with the kit comes on even if I just rest my foot on the pedal.
This is on my wish list down the road. Did any of you have a dual master cylinder before the disk up grade?
On my 54, I fabbed up a bracket for a manual switch mounted on the dash to firewall brace. 55 ad 56 should be the same. I have a write up on it if interested.
I like the old GM pickups with a lever actuator off the pedal under the truck. Should be ez under the dash too.,
I converted my 54 to the lever type switch, and I used the plunger type switch on my 58 and 62. The newer pressure actuated switches don't seem to be as consistent as the old ones.
It isn't pretty but it works. Just a piece of angle iron with a hole drilled in it and then welded to the firewall brace as mentioned above.
Yes, I converted to a Bendix Dual master like this one it came from a Jeep Cherokee notice it is an aluminum casting and I polished it. I also rebuilt the drum brakes with new wheel cylinders and hardware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265264136615
Thanks Jeff, my brake system was upgraded by the previous owner, master, wheel cylinders and lines. I will install the mustang rear adjusters, if they aren't done when I do the front disk. Did you mount your proportioning valve down on the frame? Buy the way nice polishing job on the MC.
I did the same as Dos Cincos. Welded a bracket to the brake pedal support and another plate off the pedal. Mine is mounted a bit off to the side.