Hot Rods The "Whatever" project

Yup. Good people.
I do not have any better photos of it. From what I remember it was a part of the tube chassis and the body was removable with the step remaining in the chassis. I'm sure you could further conceal it with a piece of sheet metal that closely conforms to the body side, similar to some retractable radio antenna on some customs.
A design like a barndoor hasp might be good, with an "open" notch and a "closed" notch.

https://alexnld.com/product/stainle...sp-staple-gate-safety-lock-with-padlock-hole/

 

I'm going to ruminate over that idea. I wonder if it could be like a cabinet drawer slide. Only able to support my fat @$$. Maybe a part of side nerf bars. Or maybe even have the bars rotate 90 degrees. Upright for nerfing, horizontal for stepping. You've got me thinking now... That's usually not a good thing!

 

I wimped out! I bought an adapter plate from Vintage Metalworks to mate the bellhousing and the transmission. Got it today. It's hot rod porn! And it fit with no fettling needed. How many parts have any of us bought that this can be said about? Further no modifications necessary to the transmission and the bellhousing are needed. And here it is in the car. Now to position the engine and cut the firewall. Got to finish the controls now. Small steps add up to a car eventually...

 

Nice!!!

 

Today's efforts; set the engine angle and setback. But what angle? I'm leaning towards 0 degrees on the carb flange. And I have extreme flexibility in the angle of the qc u-joint, so I can match those angles. That's good for approximately 3 degrees at the u-joints at rest. Still cogitating on the final design of the engine mounts. And I don't have a clue what to do with the alternator. Again there's this space issue. Mount it low at the front, may not clear the frame rail. Mount it up high it's going to be in the hood. Mount it off of the water pump? Suggestions are welcome and highly needed.

Also small amp loads as there's not a lot of stuff to power. Lights ignition gauges and maybe an electric fan. Am I missing something here? Remember this is a first hot rod for me, I never had to deal with that stuff on the dirt cars. Magneto ignition and a starter sometimes. We didn't even light the gauges. Jim said the only time he looked at them was cautions, and track lighting was enough for that. Carbureted or injected, we ran mechanical pumps.

 

How about a mini-scoop that directs air towards a fan/turbine that would spin the alternator? You know, get really clever and build a better mousetrap kind of stuff.

 

Nah! Smokey Yunick did it back in his Hudson NASCAR days. I'm looking at 3 wire Denso style alternators with a water pump mount. It might fit under the hood...

 

What5 about one of those "mini" one-wire alternators that could be hidden under the headers & next to the pan? I put one on my "A-A" build to hide it under the hood without needing to modify the hood. They're also used on garden tractors.

 

Could be a workable solution. The frame is 25 inches wide inside front to back. Half of that is 12.5 inches. Probably have about 8 inches to work with at the bottom of the block to the inside of the frame rail on the left side. There's a steering shaft taking up some room next to the frame rail. About 1.5 inches. So 6 inches is the room available approximately to squeeze in an alternator down low. I think that I just talked myself out of that and back to the water pump mount.

I've said before that no one ever told me just how small a T body really is. And it makes packaging a real challenge.

I did however get into the garage today for a little bit and got a drag link fabricated. And started to remake the engine and transmission mounts. I'm going to use side block mounts with bushed ends for some compliance and a stock style of transmission mount, same idea. When I make the center crossmember to support the transmission, it will also triangulate the center of the frame. And incorporate driveshaft safety loops. It's a work in progress so no pictures today.

Probably could go on and on but now I am watching old horror movies!

 

The Whatever languishes lately, as I need to finish up on my trailer. It's finally paint time. And I hate to paint! New deck plate for the widened parts, and wire it. Maybe even get it reregistered before the end of the month. Or not... Cheaper to just wait for the new year.

 

Most production cars have an engine installation angle of 2.5 to 4 degrees.

I have seen some hidden alternators on low draw systems that drive off the rear end pinion companion flange.
Some circle track cars run a pump back there to cool the rear end dope.

 

Funny you should mention that. The qc has a v-belt pulley on it for a cooling pump from when it was a late model rear. There's just not enough room for even a mini alternator back there. Tomorrow I'm going to call Powermaster to see if their water pump mount mini alternator will work on the street. It looks like it should be under the rocker cover height.

 

Just came in from the garage, and am now in search of a shifter for the S10 T5. My transmission came without a shifter, but I'm not complaining. After all it was free. So if anyone has one for a GM T5, either Camaro or S10 that you're not going to use and would be willing to part with, pm me and let me know what it will take to make a deal. Thanks

 

Dave
For me, in a perfect world it would have a Hurst handle protruding through the floor, boot, etc. replacing the OEM shifter, I know it can be done but you may need to get a little creative on building the tunnel.

 

I'm currently thinking no tunnel like Marty Strode is doing with his 10th roadster. He illustrated how to seal up between the engine and bellhousing allowing the transmission to be exposed in the car. Trying to be Scots (i.e. cheap) I'd like to use a stock shifter. Besides I'm too old to be beating on a transmission and then having to fix it...

 

As anyone can see, that transmission is filthy on the outside. Fortunately it looks good inside. I'll change its fluid after cleaning up the outside.

Which brings us to the very important question: what's the easiest way to do that? I have developed sensitivity to some solvents, and I now buy nitrile gloves by the gross.

What types of cleaning agents are you using these days? I'm hesitant to use some that I used in the past, and I don't think just using the pressure washer will do much good. Besides I'm afraid of water ingress into it.

So what's recommended?

 

Simple Green, straight.

 

It's on my list of stuff to try...

 

Sidetracked today. Repaired the neighbour's anvil instead of getting the trailer finished so I can get it out of the way of working on the Whatever project. It turned out the anvil is at worst cast steel, and at the best a really old forged anvil. Grinding the broken corner to start preparing for the repair, I noticed that the sparks didn't look like grinding on cast iron. Went out back and hit a couple of cast iron components with the grinder and got the sparks like we all have seen grinding on cast iron. So it made the repair a lot easier. But still took all day and still have cleanup grinding to finish it. And then repair the beat up top surface.

I know, people say just use it, or keep it as a collector's piece, but it still rings when hitting it.

So between times I called Powermaster and got a recommendation for an alternator for the Whatever project. And it will fit under the hood and side panels. 100 amp max. They asked me about what loads I expected, such as lights, accessories, type of ignition, anything else that would be a load on the electrical system.

After going through all of that they said a Denso style alternator would work and recommended the pulley ratio needed for street use. So a good day. Now if I can move tomorrow maybe the anvil will be finished, and I can move on to the trailer, then finally get back to the Whatever project in ernest, well the garage but...

 

The anvil project is nearing completion. Here it is in its cleaned up condition. Getting the grunge removed and after all the welding and grinding the garage was a filthy mess. So it was clen up time. But first more about the anvil.

When I was cleaning it up, I found forging seams on the bottom. Also found some lettering and numbers on one side stamped in. Somewhat obliterated, but I could read what appears to be Wrixxxxxx over Patented. Then near the bottom was some numbers that appear to be the date it was either made or first put into use. I think it started 12 as in the month obliterated followed by xx12. So most likely December 1912. This thing rings like a bell, so I don't think it's hiding any cracks. The top is pretty beat up. The neighbor and I are not concerned about collectability, so I may get some hard facing rod and build up the beat up top surface and surface it back to square and hopefully flat. Or not. After all its just going to get beat on by 2 hacks.

So now the garage is much neater and cleaner, I can get the trailer painted and wired.

And yes I am making some progress on the Whatever project. I talked with Powermaster yesterday and got a recommendation for an alternator and the appropriate pulley setup for the street. I'm going to use one of their water pump mount mini alternators, driven from the nose of the water pump. It will mount in front of the rocker cover off of the water pump bolts. It can go on either side of the engine, I'm going to put it on the passenger side. This also drives a few other decisions. For example the gauges will be all mechanical, so that the electrical load is kept low.

When the technician and I were talking he had me go thru what I expected the electrical system would be. Lights, horn, wiper, ignition continuous loads, and starter intermittent load. Being a no frills vehicle, it doesn't require much in the way of circuitry, which is good for the alternator. 100 max amp mini alternator will be more than sufficient.

So spending money but not turning and burning right now. Well it's got to be done, so at least I'm moving forward...

 

Dave, I have been running 35 amp Denso's on my cars for 23 years, and never needed more. The wiring is simple with no accessories.

 

Cheap Ebay Mustang shifter. Start reading at post 41. I stole the idea from @Rocky and @Anderson

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...hop-truck-project.872678/page-2#post-10577051

 

Not a bad idea. Thanks

 

And that engine looks soooo good, Marty. I'm going to use the 75 amp version (that's the actual rating, 100 is max), just in case I add something down the road, like electronic fuel injection. The engine builder and I have discussed making my old Hilborns electronic down the road. I have an idea or two on how to hide the injectors so the manifold won't have to get modified.

But first carbureted. However I can get a 59 ab block. Maybe I should consider it. Again after the 327...

 

First things first. Closing in on finishing up rebuilding my trailer. Got the new deck plates fitted and 2 bolted down. Made a couple of pointy bolts to transfer the bolt locations from the frame to the plates.

 

I hate it when I do that! Hit the post instead of the upload button. Took about 30 minutes total on the lathe and bandsaw to make these. I know, planning ahead I could have bought transfer screws, but that takes time, money and planning. These work just fine.

Those 2 pictures show the left side new plates bolted down.

Got the new u-joints and trial fitted them on the Whatever project. Need to shorten the shaft a bit and connect the column to it. Then build a support hoop for under the cowl. I've got to draw it full size tomorrow and bend the tubing. Still small steps, but getting something done at least...

 

Woo hoo! Other than paint and wiring the trailer is finished Painting this weekend, wiring as soon as it has dried. Then it's out of the garage so I can get back to the Whatever project!

I've laid out the bends for the cowl support hoop. So now while the paint dries, I'll bend up some 1 inch tube.

Rustoleum drying in the morning, it smells like victory! Well it really smells of solvents, and I have gotten sensitized to many solvents, so hopefully I can keep the garage door open.

 

Cleaning the trans, I like dollar store oven cleaner. Cuts grease well. Cheap if you get the real dollar store brand at $1. Buy several so you have some for other cleanups. The trans will probably take a couple cans and some brushing the tougher spots. Rinses off clean with water at just hose pressure. Oven cleaner is sodium hydroxide, it will etch alum a bit. Not a problem on castings, but don't use it on nice finished or polished alum.

 

Well I have a round tuit, but keep getting waylaid. I'll get the transmission cleaned one of these days, and I promise I'll finish the trailer now that I have wiring to do. But sometimes, like yesterday, I just can't function. Oh well today got a trailer wiring harness tomorrow paint (delayed from yesterday), by midweek I'm thinking that I can get it finished...

Meanwhile, wasn't even able to tinker with the Whatever project yesterday. Let's just say that sometimes faeces occurs! That's as much of a rant I'm up to.

 

Been idled for a few days. Could barely move, but getting better. No pictures today however there is limited progress. The DD steering shaft is in and the Mini steering column will fit without any modifications .

So back allowing, back at it tomorrow. And trailer paint. Gotta get that thing out of the way...