Technical Update: Does this look bent?

Looks like the rocker was falling off the edge of the valve stem, I guess because of the broken washer.
You could replace all 16 with hardened washers, then run it. Like others have said it lasted 4 years with a regular washer, with better washers it could last 8.

 

That is not a washer. It is a fulcrum. It is rounded on the bottom so the rocker arm pivots on it.

Nomenclature is everything when you want to order the correct part.

 

Read the whole post, eh?

 

Oooooops...... Missed that one!

Why the washer? Stud pulling out of head so they took up space with it?

 

Screw in studs

 

Bent pushrods is my guess.

 

A bent pushrod won't rotate ..Therefore won't last long, and neither will the parts that it contacts.
Anyway..asked and answered.
Again, guys, read the whole thread before commenting.. They're tough to get through sometimes, but ya oughta do it.

 

I'm sticking with checking pushrod length then moving on from there.

 

I don't see any evidence that the pr length is off, to any extreme . A little bit won't hurt at all. It just wears the guides after a bit of time, but this has been running like this for four years.

 

ZZ, one reason for the 16 washers could be a low base circle cam., or a reground cam. I have seen this also on heads that were not cut for guide plates. A bad guide will tick like you are saying on a sbc. if the rocker fixes it ,run it and recheck compression. Keep us posted Pete.

 

I'm interested in how many miles this engine has.

Were there any pictures of the pushrods , ends and all, posted?

 

Thanks for the input everybody, I put new plug wires on it (after pulling the end off one of the wires) and it still won't fire. Pulled a plug to see if I have fire, no spark-it-ty spark. I read somewhere on the net (yeah I know) that if u pull a plug wire with the motor running it could damage the ignition module, anyone heard of this? So the motor ran when I started the journey to diagnose the valve tick, I pulled a plug while it was running and the motor died and has never ran again.

 

I don't know the actual length difference but factory roller SBC's had shorter pushrods. I would like to verify the correct pushrods are in that engine. I am not stating that is the problem, I'd just like to know it isn't. Something is off based on the need for washers, the fact that one broke and the strange wear on that valve stem ... maybe all the stems look the same ????

 

If it has an HEI you can run 12 volts straight from the battery, bypassing all existing wiring and switches. That would rule those out if it still won't start.

 

I haven't physically measured one in a while but old style (non roller) OEM SBC pushrod lengths posted on the internet are a bit "flaky", the common range I've seen from believable sources are 7.794-7.800 long.

 

The spark plug itself or the boot?
If you pulled the plug while the engine was running, that's a bit unusual on a typical personal vehicle.

If the boot wasn't grounded to check for spark then you may have fried the electronic unit.
Did the engine die after you pulled the boot or was it just later on at restart it would not start?
However, I am wondering what kind of grounding/bonding is on the engine?
If you pulled the valve cover before this and didn't reattach the ground straps(some SBCs would have ground straps between the VC bolts and firewall as an engine ground). Without the ground/bonding the ignition may simply not be able to function. Gotta close that loop.

I think more picture of the engine/engine bay and components would answer a whole lot of questions.
If you are not getting spark, check for power to the coil(fuses/fuse box) before throwing ignition parts at it.
If you are getting power, verify grounds/ bonds at the engine.
Pull the cap off and watch the rotor, it should spin when the engine is cranking, if it is jerky or doesn't move the roll pin may have sheared.

 

I too ,would like to see engine compartment pics. Do we even know it's an HEI?
I test HEIs and modules on the bench all the time. Never fried one .Just hook up + and - to a battery. and spin it by hand.If you hear snap, crackle and pop, you're good. Not recommending you pull the distributor at this point, but it does beat cranking the hell out of the motor sometimes.

 

ZZ, I "bombed" a number of HEI modules doing what you did. mostly for engine noises or skips ( bad cams ) in the 1970s. It was common among every day mechanics. It seems the newer AC DELCO ones are ok with this nowadays. ck the wires on the pickup coil are tight also. A lot of the guys on this forum are just plain LUCKY ! None seem to have any problems with anything! Pete.

 

Early HEI units were known to blow a hole through the rotor and have the spark go right to ground inside the dist.

 

I just consider the flat tappet SBC push rods to be 7.800, the "flakey" measurements come in because of the oil holes. OEM Chevy roller lifters use 7.200 push rods.

 

IDK how many miles before I got the car, motor was rebuilt, I've put less than 1,000 miles This particular pushrod likes fine.

 

Again, I want to thank everyone for your input! I was sure the ignition module was bad so I bought one, still no spark. I tested the coil with a multimeter and it was good. I had a spare so I tested it, failed on the secondary under 5,000. I went ahead and put it in and it fired up immediately. Who knows! Anyway. Valves on this side of the motor still noise, seems to run fine at idle, haven't driven it. I guess I need to see about getting the washer / shim (sorry not the right term for part). It seemed tight enough without it.

 

Good luck. Hope it lasts until you can replace it.

 

Glad you didn't blow up a module..Some guys are lucky, I guess ;-)
What exactly do yo mean by it seemed tight enough? What's your oil pressure, warm, at idle?

 

Rocker seems tight without the washer. Oil pressure is about 25-30 at idle.

 

Are you sure you started at zero lash? Exactly how much preload did you put on it from that point?

 

I left the rocker slightly loose, started it up. Then I slowly tightened it a quarter turn at a time. It never stopped making noise. I didn't want to make things worse so I stopped. Assuming I need a hardened washer as it was there for a reason. I only tried it as it was suggested to me.

 

If it ever stopped making noise I was going to go another half turn

 

If you have to go more than 3/4 of a turn, you've got some junk lifters there or maybe a restriction in that side's oil galley.
This is why I said to put where it belongs in the first place. If it goes there and still has threads left, then you don't need a washer. That's just asking for trouble, as you already know.
Seeing you're determined to run it without the valve cover...does it have oil dribbling out of the pushrod holes on that side, after idling it for a minute?

 

Yes, it has oil coming out. I took another rocker off and I can now see there's a washer on it too, so I assume they are all this way. Gonna order a new motor and put this one out of it's misery.