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Technical Tale of a Blown Big Block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kelly Burns, Oct 27, 2021.

  1. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    As I mentioned in my post about (https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-tale-of-two-big-blocks.1246022/) how I came to own this engine, it was in a guy’s ‘66 Chevelle, up until this past summer, when the oil pressure started “bouncing around” as the guy I bought it from said. He was going to rebuild it but during the removal and tear down, he decides to go the LS pro touring route.

    It’s a 361959 casting (454, 73-90, 2 or 4 bolt), this one turned out to be a 2-bolt main block, that seems to be all stock except the Edlebrock Performer 2+ intake, Accel Distributor (771100E) and Accel SuperStock Breakerless Electronic Ignition Coil (Jegs P/N 110-8145C). The heads are casting number 336781, 454, 73-85, Oval - Open, 118cc chamber, 256/114cc ports, 2.06/1.72.

    What I’m thinking is if the block and crank both check out to be good when I take the rotating assembly and block to the machine shop for cleaning and balancing, is to rebuild it like it is, of course with new timing chain, oil pump and pick up, and water pump. The only exception being, I’d like to put a little bigger cam in it. I don’t really think the heads need to be rebuilt so I’d like to get away with not have to pull them apart, but if need be for a good sounding cam, I will. Then I’ll have to get a carburetor to go long with the cam and heads.

    I’m thinking I will grind down the Edelbrock logo on the intake and bead blast that area, just to blend it in. The reason for that, is I’d like to paint the intake, heads, valve covers, block, water pump, oil pan and timing cover all orange. Maybe Cal Custom fined valve covers (a local guy has a set for sale that I’m watching). The headers, for whatever I get to put this in, will be black. I’m going for kind of a “Day 2” kind of look. The plug wires are going to be ran down and up to keep it clean looking.
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2021
    dana barlow likes this.
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,227

    squirrel
    Member

    If you're going for more than .500 lift, and plan to put a lot of miles on it, you might consider a hydraulic roller cam. They're expensive, by the time you buy the cam, lifters, pushrods, and correct valve springs etc, but much less likely to go "flat".
     
    raven, milwscruffy, fauj and 2 others like this.
  3. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 3,391

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    ^^x2 HYD Roller are the way to go now days.
     
    Deuces likes this.
  4. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    Well, seems like we are off to a great start! Being how I think to get any kind of good sound out of the cam, it will probably need to be bigger than .500, and I do have all the intentions of putting miles on, whatever it goes into. Its too much fun to drive these old hot rods not to!
     
  5. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,798

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    If you are willing to spend the money to "fresh-up" the block, don't skimp on the heads(at least lap the valves & put in new stem seals), because they have the same hours on them as the block, & are just as "tired". The money you don't spend on their rebuilding will be spent (plus a bunch more !) soon after you start "playing with" your otherwise new motor!
     
  6. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,926

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Okay you are going to have the engine apart. The heads will be off and easy to inspect. I'd get a spring compressor and remove and inspect all the valves, springs, valve guides and valve seats. If everything looks good, put them back together with new valve seals. I never lap valves, I pop them against the seat a couple of times and take a look at the witness mark on the valve face. If it's all the way around, I put everything back together. You are talking about maybe 2 hours of work now VS 5 or 6 hours plus parts once everything is back together. Don't forget to inspect all the rocker arms too.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  7. If you’re willing to spend the money to balance the crank,,,,,please go through the heads .
    Valve sealing is at least as important as the rings sealing.
    If the valves leak cylinder pressure,,,,,you will never see full potential from that engine .
    Maybe they don’t need a full rebuild,,,,,but please check the valve faces and seats ,,,,at the minimum .
    You will be glad you did .

    Tommy
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2021
    427 sleeper, Kelly Burns and fauj like this.
  8. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,036

    belair
    Member

    In for a penny, in for a pound. Spend all the money up front, come away with a 100% engine.
     
  9. Stan Back
    Joined: Mar 9, 2007
    Posts: 2,639

    Stan Back
    Member
    from California

    Wait a minute!

    What kinda Big Block are you guys talking about? The big Lincoln Flathead, a Cadillac OHV, a Chrysler Hemi?

    What kinda blasphemy are you spreading???
     
    loudbang and Desoto291Hemi like this.
  10. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,113

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

  11. 4 pedals
    Joined: Oct 8, 2009
    Posts: 986

    4 pedals
    Member
    from Nor Cal

    Was there a question or is this a build thread?
     
  12. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,857

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

  13. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    Have you guys looked at the blown motor thread I’ve got going? The thought over there is that I should swap the two builds. Build the Mark IV for the blower and build the Gen 5 as the carbureted engine. See what you think.

    I think y’all are right, I will go through the heads, they will be right there already off. And I’ve got the money to do it once, not twice!
     
    Desoto291Hemi and 427 sleeper like this.
  14. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    A little update, the Mark IV will become the one that will get the blower. I'm collecting pieces now while the Gen. 5 is at the machine shop.
     
  15. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Li'l bro and I built one for his roadster pickup... 472" LS 6. Love the torquey feel, but engine weight was prohibitive for the placement/stock wheelbase.
    So we changed things around...
     
  16. 41rodderz
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 6,540

    41rodderz
    Member
    from Oregon

    Imo I would lap the valves . It doesn’t take that much effort .
     
  17. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    I'm planning on completely rebuilding them to suit the blower.
     
  18. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    On a side note, I thought you automatically go notifications for the threads you start, seems I was wrong, there are comments on here I wasn't aware of, sorry guys!
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  19. Kelly Burns
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,762

    Kelly Burns
    Member

    I'm not sure exactly what it will go in. I'm looking for a '46-'48 Ford car project. But there is a '56 Chevy post that had been parked in a neighbor's driveway for years! I won't worry about gas mileage with this one, I just want good looking and sounding blown engine with a vintage look. The Gen 5 is the one I'm building to drive.
     

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