Interesting thread, major money in this. Just for a laugh, My better halfs father has a 47 Continental convertible, when he bought it it came with a bunch of paperwork. There was a receipt for rebuilding the v-12, $99.00 Times sure have changed.
Thanks X38, I read those rules, and okay bad on me for not doing that previously, and now I get it. No disrespect to anyone intended. I actually have been doing a lot of research and thinking, and I plan on going with multiple carbs, that are period correct. The Zephyr HV-12 is way too cool to bastardize, so I will be doing a through refresh of the engine and jazzing it up a bit. Other than that I want to keep it pretty much original. One thing I have to add is a Vintage Air HVAC system as the heat here in FL is brutal. Their vintage controls will keep it in the general tradition of the car. Already tore into the engine (removed intake and heads) to have a look around, and getting ready to pull it out of the car so I can inspect, Magnaflux for cracks and measure things up. Then it's off to a reputable machine shop for whatever is determined to be needed.
mk e. Any further work on the HV-12? I had a heck of a time finding some of the needed parts for mine, but I'm almost ready to send my block out for the needed machine work that I can't do myself. I'm doing all my own valve work, but cylinder boring/honing and crank and cam grinding will be left to the experts who have the right equipment. If you run the CFM calculation (CID X Max RPM /3465) my 292 at 5K rpm max only requires 423 cfm, and that's at 100% VE, which a Flathead will never even come close to. You are lucky to get 60% naturally aspirated, so that drops the required CFM down even lower. The stock Holley 94 flows a max of 185 CFM in the largest configuration, so even two of them are plenty. Going to send my cam out to Schneider Racing for a regrind, once I get a chance to measure mine up as I want to compare before and after numbers.
My how time flies. I'm still stuck on the other V12 project but I did drive that one around the block, so its getting near done and I'm back to at least thinking about the Lincoln. With X38 scolding you I hesitate to detail the thoughts beyond the current plan call for a '26 roadster body, a space/birdcage frame, and I'm still struggling to convince myself the stock rods are fine, a lot of the rest of crosses the 1965 line as I've settled on the theme of the built to be "a century of part" I would however love to hear about how your cam turns out!
Trying to find connecting rods that will work and aren't as scary looking as the stock ones I found theis Deutz 511 rods the might work, it looks like it uses a 2.046 journal bearing so a little smaller than I wanted but it does less me offset grind the crank for a bit more stroke, the wrist pin is huge but I guess that's easy to bush but the best price I see is $146 each. I'm unclear about how long it is too, a quick measure off the pic got me 6.75 which if right is 1/2" short but but about a 1/4" could be made up in the bushing maybe.... This is a Chinese version at $36 each...its new but I m not sure its less scary
another thought. The scat ford rods are 7" so close to the Lincoln 7.25 and would work with custom pistons but won't fit through the bore.....looking at it this afternoon it sure looks like the piston to be inserted from the top, then the rod connected from the bottom. Kind of a pain but gets a nice off the shelf rod in this thing
Hello, very glad to see you back at work on this project, I followed your Ferrari project. I can't remember the specifics, but some v-8 flatheads we're assembled that way (pistons inserted from the bottom). Tom
Thanks. I decide to see how much it really weights and as part of that I rolled it over to have a look at bottom loading pistons. It looks like only 1/2 of them could go in the bottom, maybe all depending on how tall they are.....its a main bearing thing. That is what got me to load the pistons from the top, then pin the rods at the bottom, then push them up and load the crank in. A lot of hoops but I think possible. Weights The heads and crank were upstairs in the shop, in a corner semi buried. I was remembering the crank was heavy....but I wasn't remembering THAT heavy. Block+cam/valves+waterpumps - 240lb Aluminum heads = 38lb Crank+damper(because its stuck on) =98.5lb so 377, add the pistons and rods maybe 400? Add a custom intake and headers...$450? Then clutch and flywheel 500? Not as bad as I thought and honestly better than I'd hoped..l..other than the 100lb crank. My car project budget is generally about $2k/yr so this engine is looking like 2-3 years worth. I'm leaning toward at least roughing out the car as a roller before really diving in on the engine build so I don't haver a fresh engine rusting. I'm mostly trying to settle on a plan so I know how big and heavy to plan for. It looks like things have changed a bit about what gets discussed here so I'll be respectful which means that most of the actual car work and the finish up on the engine doesn't go here but for anyone interested I did start a thread, but again budget will mean it moves at the speed it move and the ferrari being "done" when the engine goes back in is still a wild card: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/f...eshed-together-26-roadster-build/191782/page1
Hey mk e have you been able to gain any traction on connecting rod selection? Any other thoughts you can share on this amazing concept?
Sorry I missed this....once I got scolded I rarely check in over here plus I'm STILL stuck on the the *** ferrari engine which is back out in bits on my floor and bench. Its sooo close to done now though..... I've kind of resigned myself to the rods will be custom and expensive. I'm just so tired of custom engine bit making at this point my plan (ok hope) is to have the ferrari engine back in the car this fall. Then with the floor/bench cleared I can finally pull the Lincoln engine out of the corner and start laying out a car. My current plan is more hotrod with traditional elements than traditional hotrod so most of that will likely not be appropriate for this forum. The short block engine build I can probably share here but that won't start until the car is all roughed out....so another couple years before I have the rods sorted?
Thank you for responding! I should be installing my mostly stock V12 sometime this winter, meanwhile plotting to build one of the cores I have stashed away. I look forward to absorbing any information and ideas you may be willing to share. Who knows, I might have something to contribute as well.
I'm sorry it took so long and more sorry I'm not further along after all these years Did some mindless shop time tonight on the ferrari V12 and while there got to thinking about early mid-engine setups like the 1938 miller gulf specials....so now I'm trying to sketch something that looks of the period but 2 seats and a little prettier (to me). Kind of keep the back but drop the nose a bit.....and I was thinking I want fenders to make set-in entry easy.....I turned 60 a couple months ago so....yeah. once there is a body plan I'll know if I can plan on mounting the blower on top or I need a different solution. The general focus will be very light weight, birdcage space frame and I'm shit with sheetmetal so composite body work. Like a 1500lb target so 250hp is enough to make it snappy...but I do think I can wring 300@4500-5000rpm out of it. We'll see how much I post here without breaking any rules.
here is what I kind of came up with...I'm not much of an artist but its kind of 30s looking and 2 peolple plus the Lincoln engine fit
Cool stuff. There is an Off Topic forum now where anything but EV will fly. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/off-topic-hot-rods-customs.98/ Dan
ahhhh...thanks! I should maybe start a new thread and end this with a link to it: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lincoln-v12-engine-needs-a-car-build-around-it.1338811/
what caught my eye was your previous talk on con rods--literally no factory anything could work as a sub. ,the way buick in a sbc. etc .etc....??
There might be something that would work but I haven't found it yet. The problem is the bore is relatively small at 2.875 and the rod journals are relatively big at 2.25 so any rod big enough to work on the crank is too big to fit through the bore unless its an angled cap design, generally only found on diesels.
The engine in the MG TD I had a few years ago was like that, you put the rods/pistons in from the bottom. I expect that is easier to do on a straight 4, than on a V12.
I looked at that too. I think it is possible to load 6 that way. the other 6 it might be possible to load the piston from the top then slip in the wrist pin at the bottom and slide it back up......maybe. I could maybe 3D print a piston and give it a try as it would let me use the scat flathead ford rods....they are on the short side for this engine but should be ok. Or I make rods that fit properly.
I think the way to assemble it might be to put all the pistons/rods in, without rings, from the bottom. Then install the crank, and one at a time, install rings and push the pistons down into place. If there's enough room for the big end, without cap, to clear the crank pin as you rotate the crankshaft.
this caused me to do a full build on a supposedly fully rebuilt flatty oil pressure just started fading then pulled and rods were all sloppy , pulled the welsh plugs and full of dried dog turds no oil to rods ,,cleaned ,, tapped for pipe plugs , turned,, balanced and happy ,, fabricator john miss you dad
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