This thing started heavy, are you replacing the metal with 20 gage or going with something thinner. I once had a buddy replace the rusted floor metal with alum. from a folding card table.
The inner rockers we made out of 16 ga. Firewall and toe boards out of 18ga. The floor pan was for a 56 Chevy. It's a cheap aftermarket piece. About 22ga. If I knew then what I know now about what's legal. I would have taken a different approach to the build. I'm too far into it to start over.
Been having phone/ camera issues. Older photos won't download. This is where we're at with the rear suspension.
You are correct, the "DX" block is super thick, and can be stroked out to 445" or so IIRC. I have seen a 442" version incidentally, (serendipitous number for an Olds guy LOL), along with a 380" which was more common. Seems like they stroked a 330" crank to do it?? The Chevy guys used to modify the 6" SBOlds connecting rod for use in a SBChevy, back in the days before budget friendly 6" aftermarket rods were available, back when your choices were reworked stock rods, $$$ Carrillo race rods, or $$$ and short lived aluminum rods.
Looking forward to this. Not sure about your Trans plan fitting the SEGA rules though. Did Quain miss that. Or am I wrong ? Anyway keep at it simple enough to change that if necessary.
I talked with Quain on the use of the 5 speed trans. We're allowed to use the trans, just not the 5th gear. He gave me options on what I could do with shifter options and modifying the trans too. Plus I've planned the crossmember fab to allow for future mods. I'll get pics of it and post them later in the week.
Seeing how I feel the need to run a Olds. Just about everything has to be made! Motor plate and mid plate.
We used to use the DN as a 4 speed in Super Stock. 5th had to be blanlk, but nobody ever looked. You would need a completely different shifter to use 5th anyway. You have the option to under drive 4th, which might be the hot ticket with the Olds ;-)
Make sure your Doug Nash is good to go. I bought one that had been professionially built but they tend to pop out of 2 or 3 with not noticable wear. Sold it to a Bonneville guy in the middle of Speedweek and it turned out to be junk for him. Long story
Thanks for the advice. Every part on the car will be gone through. If it's a used part. I will at least tear it down and inspect it.
We had a circle track racer with a car that was legal for one track, went to another and was able to run, but told him to bring it back next week with more body on it. This guy and his brother were always wicked FAST. So he comes back, he used corrugated tin from a garbage-picked swimming pool, complete with the wood grain. With just the car # on the door. I'll say it was neatly done.
Been having some health issues, so things have slowed down some on the project. Last few weekends we have been trying to finish up the suspension. Some blasting and paint, the body will be going back on.
did you use slugs or any extra sleeving where you joined at the kickup , reason i ask is have never done much car frame stuff an while i don't mind picking up small stuf that breaks off to old to pick up a front end
We have plated the frame graft, along with several Rosetta welds along as cutting a hole in both frame rails for the crossmember.
Hopefully the Drs will get me back to full speed. They're starting treatments for A.S. after new yrs. If they can calm down the joint pain and the fatigue it will help get this project back on schedule. I am thankful I have 2 guys that have been there to help get it where it's at now!
Thx i have done alot of bike frame stuf an used slugs at points that are prone to break , don't have the reflexs to run my bikes anymore , i do have a body, rearend, motor an welding skills , an four wheels you pretty much just driving without the wife i bought the body at auction in 1974 an my brother an i have argued bout the build ever since an he just died so i'm going to lay lines for a frame do it his way , i will for sure post the build , you people are all that's keeping me grounded enough to function an thx for that , here in on. canada they are really picky about frames i don't know you could run yours on the street , used 4130 for a plane so i probably stick with that an bend over any hoops they have to certify it , it's light an strong easy to weld an comes from a local airplane builder supply that tracks where an when it was made ect. so streeting should be ok , wish i lived where there were all kinds of tracks to race at with in a few hundred miles now with virus going to grocery store is a big deal let alone crossing the border with a race car , i would love to race a sega car
Stripped everything off the frame. Scheduled with the blaster Monday after Christmas. Getting closer to final assembly for the frame!
The Jalopy Journal
