newbie question.... I want to use 33/34 spring perches with 36 split wishbones and a 36 axle? I realize the factory spring-forward perches would have to be trimmed from the wishbones first, but I'm not sure if the mounting surfaces/interface between the 33/34 perches and 36 wishbones are compatible. Thanks, gentlemen!
On the post-34 wishbones the eyelets that the perch goes through are thicker. Not sure if a 34 perch would be long enough to allow a nut to fit. Aftermarket perches are longer.
'33's-'36's used the same axle, so I don't see any problems other than the above (with the solution already supplied).
I believe the 32-34 perches are around 4-1/8" could just get by, the top & bottom of the wishbones have a tapered recess for the tapered perch to set in, as does the bottom for the nut much like a lug nut. looks as if you may have about the thickness of the flat on the nut to spare, if uncomfortable at that possibly run the taper deeper ( with CAUTION & more difficult) or might be much easier to remove some taper (a smidgen ?) from the bottom end of the perch, both methods to gain some extra thread length. All in all something you need to assess if even necessary, in the grand scheme of things as suggested I would opt. with the after market components long enough to mount shocks as well off the bottom.
Just get the perch pins for the shock add ons. They are longer. I do it all the time. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...MIwsjW4Jig9AIVWG5vBB2J7QgUEAQYDSABEgLHA_D_BwE
Neglected to mention if by chance your wanting to use the 32-34 perches for the ball mount to accommodate the early type ford shocks, you might ck. the Speedway "Tool Box " by tech Tim Mathews on their web site... a simple steel block is welded & tapped for their also available ball mount using the after market longer perch solves both issues.
I'm using '35/'36 split bones and axle on my '28 with a stock A spring. I turned down, re tapered and shaved the shackle width of an AA perch bolt. I realized I wanted the lower shock mounts (aftermarket) and cut a little off the top of the bones to make the perch bolt stick out on the bottom more (had to re taper the wishbone). BTW, I had a co worker do the perch pins as my lathe doesn't have a taper setup and I suck.
My little bro did exactly what 1oldtimer shows, the wishbone part not the AA perch part, about a decade ago. I think he did his to cheat that extra quarter inch of lowness too.
The '32-'34 yokes are 3-3/16" tall compared to 3-3/4" for the '35-'36 yoke. The early perch bolt barely peeks out in the later wishbone. I haven't tried a lower shock mount with '35-'36 bones; but I suspect that the yoke will need trimming like in the earlier post. '37-'40 yokes are even taller and I know from experience that aftermarket perch bolts are too short for a full nut and definitely need trimming when using the street rod lower shock mounts.
Man, you guys are awesome. I guess that's that! Class dismissed. Yes, my goal was to run early lever shocks off the ball of the 33/34 perches.
I used '36 wishbones on my roadster. Cut down the perch boss on the bones and use a tapered reamer to match the perch pin.
Curious if you guys set them up on a mill or just used a grinder to remove material. Also curious what angle of reamer is required. Thanks!
When my little bro's was done, my machinist buddy clamped it in his mill. I don't remember the angle degree, but that should be easy to check with a gauge.
My kid makes the initial cuts with a cut-off wheel; then puts them in his mill to finish the cut and countersink. Afterwards he uses a grinder to make look more like Henry forged the ends that way; kinda like the picture I posted earlier. The mill makes the cut square and the countersink centered; but there is no reason you cannot do it with a grinder and drill press. You can check your perch bolt to find the degree countersink needed. Probably the biggest hassle is getting a large enough countersink.
That is a 60* included angle and as @RICH B said you aren’t going to find one that big (at least 1 1/8”) at the local big box store.
I cut the top of the wishbone off with my bandsaw, I was lucky and a friend let me use his mill to do the rest (hopefully in the future I’ll have one). I did use a tapered reamer and hand drill redo some steering components.
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