@alchemy... I'm waiting to mount my carbs. What are your thoughts on phenolic spacers? Should I run in the engine without doo-dads first?
Simpler is better. Add stuff as you go. I actually have phenolic spacers on my sedan. Not sure if they do much though.
@alchemy, @patmanta, @Renorods, @LAROKE... what size oil lines guys? planning on copper 3/8" with compression fittings. Is that enough flow for my set up? Also do ya'll have a flow diagram? I will mount my filter on the firewall.
Here are my temp sensors for each side... Does this look correct? What is left? looking out the car while driving? or looking fore to aft? What about the 6 volt situation here? Do I need the reducers to get to my 12 v gauges? Do I plug the 3rd hole, or is there another sensor out there? I understand somewhat the left to right bypass deal on overheating... @alchemy @patmanta
I don’t remember exactly but my lines are either 5/16 or 3/8. Run from boss on back of block to the side of the canister. Then from bottom of canister to the oil pan. Don’t forget the restrictor fitting on the side of the canister.
Did some minor work today… Oil filter mount will attach to firewall threaded area on block stainless oil filler/breather steering mount electronic fuel pump 3rd block had cam and all stuck valves removed Carbs/intakes
Well, if you have an oiling system designed by someone other than Henry Ford, you should probably ask that guy what he wants for sizing. Who did it for you?
The local machine shop but they went out of business due to covid. They drilled in the boss for the accessory oiling. I tracked this image down. Do I block the boss on the side of the engine?
I don't know, I am not that far along with my flathead yet. I would suggest using NiCop line though, not pure copper. It is stiffer and resists damage better without being difficult to form. I think you can get chopped 32 stanchions like those off the shelf.
ok... NiCop then. I will block off the boss on the side of the engine. Can 32 stuff fit on a model A roadster like that?
Good call. IDK about the stanchion bases, but the stanchions themselves sure look like they can be to me. I have been eyeing them for the other T touring I am butchering and putting together for my friend. I am inclined to suspect that they should be able to be made to fit the A roadster/phaeton A pillars and they are not terribly expensive.
Test fit the "engine break-in" cowl. I might channel this 6"... What tabs on the frame need to come off to secure a channelled body? I polished up the gauge panel with steel wool...
This is the approximate position of my "push" type fuel pump... I assume I will need to block off my mechanical pump? This needs to sit 12" under the gas tank per instructions, and near to the tank... Do I need another fuel filter? It already has a 40 micron one... also should I go return or not?
How do they achieve this side stance? Have they pie cut the frame? I am in love... @alchemy @patmanta
Sorry to say, but that gauge will be basically worthless when you are trying to read in the one or two pound range. Find one of the low range gauges sold by Dickster in the HAMB classifieds.
You would need to remove the A pillar bracket on the frame and make one to receive said A pillar 6" below the top of the frame rail. If you only want to do this for that particular cowl, just pull the metal over the brackets, the cowl will clear them by the time you get down 4", then put some kind of bracket to place them where you want. You will need to notch the firewall accordingly. The back half of a 27 T touring will mate to the A pillars and line up at 4" btw. You can't really see it in these pictures, but I did do it. I would bet that frame is not pie cut and that it has a flat front crossmember, notched frame, and a deep dropped axle.
Put a piece of plywood across frame rails and set your seat on it. Sit on seat and you will be able to judge how much above the Cowl/windshield you will be looking. Move the cowl/windshield up and down to determine the amount of channel/non-channel, you will be comfortable with. If you are under 5’ tall, disregard the above and channel the shit out of it!
My axle is dropped 4”… is it too late to c-notch or should I pie cut instead? I am already at 7deg caster, should I Z the front? I’m getting ready to pull the driveline here shortly so I will have access to the chassis
Got the linkage from Honest Charley's... 3/32 drill bit in the base 5/8" deep. Then the spring is inserted...
Now for some reason this carb is not springing back on it's own or with the spring... any ideas? This is the finished set up, but it doesn't work...
I mounted the alternator and changed out the fan bracket. This isn't even close Do I drill the fan? buy a different fan? Ditch the fan? Or is this a dual fan set up... What belt(s) do I need?
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