Technical Liquid Wrench in crank case oil?

I watched a video on Utube of some idiot that put WD40 in a engine for oil. It worked......for a little while. Ended up turning some bearings.

 

Buddy of mine was an Engine man in the Coast Guard. He absolutely swore(what else is new?!)....swore they did the Bon Ami deal on Jimmy engines in the boats.
6sally6

 

My guess is it didn’t hurt because you put it in prior to the oil change but changing oil every 1500 miles was a bigger key to the Y’s longevity….

 

I stand corrected it was Bon Ami it was and not 20 mule team . I have done it many times on Natural Gas fired White natural Gas Compressors . These were huge inline 8s . And yes the manufacture did recommend this . Mind you , these were not installed on an engine stand to rebuild . I could stand inside of the bore . Liners and pistons were field installed in a make shift tent . Each cylinder had its own head . As best as I can recall 2765 HP . Been a long time ago . I had a few pistons and connecting rods for a while . Gave them away as home made car club show trophies .

 

"Hey Harv, put out another case of Bon Ami for the Chevy dealer."

"That's the third case this month, that place must be spotless!"

 

Harv will go find the Bon Ami, but will it stop the blowby Blowby?

Aussie 60's-vintage aftermarket water injection below:



Cheers,
Harv

 

In 1941 Chevrolet & Buick both issued service letters for seating rings with Bon Ami.

 

I think the things we are discussing are fun to talk about. And I do agree crest toothpaste works great to clean scratches off a 63 corvette hardtop back window and trickling water down the carb on a 327 that's carbon"d up helps to blast deposits off valves and piston tops. But I classify the rest of this right up there with engine restore in a can. I fear through our remenicing (sp) we are misleading our younger followers into thinking this stuff really works. I feel the flaming coming.

 

If you would have said 'BON AMI', it was mixed with water...and poured down the carb throat while running.
Yes, it worked. My 'master' did it a few times during my apprenticeship. (1957-1961)
I have to admit, I have used it also. Reseated rings. 100%.

 

For how long? Lippy

 

"Sometimes this place is nuts. STP on bearings, Liquid Wrench in the crankcase, powdered cleanser down the intake. Where the fuck does all this crazy shit come from? Unfuckingbelievable!"[/QUOTE]

Back in the day some of this shit worked. I would not do it today but, I have used STP as assembly lube on bearings in several Chevrolet engines with great success. I learned it from a circle track racer in the mid 1970's. Thought he was crazy then but he built some bad ass engines and back then he knew a lot more than I did.

 

The Man on the right is my great grandfather. The shop is representitive of what I grew up around. Old men who worked on cars. I have my great grandfathers Motors manual from the 30s, and have had a lot of conversations with some crusty old gents who liked to talk. Kerosene in the crankcase, heard it many times. out of oil, use ATF. Bon Ami, many an old timer swore by it. engine smokes, mix 80% water with 20% brake fluid, block the radiator and get it hot, (not overheat, around 200 ) run the rpms up to about 1600, dribble down carb until engine misses, clear, repeat. Works well unless you have close neighbors. Sawdust in the gear oil to sell the car. Pulling a piston and rod to sell a car. (I would never buy a car from my grandfather, fortunately, by the time i was around, he had every car he had owned for the last 20 years sitting in the back yard, and by the time I was old enough to be interested in the early 80s, they were pretty damn cool cars)Boiling a carburetor, dont knock it unless you've tried it. I have an old deep fryer, and I use pinesol and water, and boil everything that fits. followed with the airhose. Smells better too.
Most of these cars were flathead fours and sixes, and I would hesitate to use some of these tricks on overheads.
Dont forget, the bacon goes UNDER the bearing cap, to decrease the bearing clearance, not in place of , although 90 weight will also work to get you to work well past the best by date on your old six cylinder., and water /methanol injection was used on ww2 fighter planes.

 

excellent lighting system. probably couldnt see they left the piston out . i do remember my father n law had a diesel grader with a thrown rod . he made a plate to cover the whole in the block and had it back in service pdq . dont know what he did to stop the oil from shooting out of the journal ?

 

This is a serious question, I'm not being sarcastic. For those that believe the Bon Ami trick for seating piston rings, what do you attribute this to? What do you think is technically occurring that assists ring seating?

IME abrasives through the intake result in wear of the components (cylinder bores, pistons and rings); which results in an increase in blow-by, not a reduction. (there is a saying that I've heard for decades, "an engine will last 10,000 hours, or 10 ounces of dirt, which ever comes first", which is no longer accurate because now engines are being pushed out more than double that number of hours, but dirt still has the same effect).

I am struggling with how an abrasive introduced into the intake stream is going to help rings seal combustion gases, and/or oil consumption, when it will result in a loss of material from all the components in the top end. Rings will get looser in the grooves, will have reduced tension against the bore due to enlarging of the bore; and the surface finish of the rings, and the bore will both be roughened with vertical grooves that will allow passage of combustion gases, or oil. These are the things that occur with an abrasive through an engine. So help me understand how this helps rings to "seat".

 

ive always just took off the air filter and drove down a dirt road till the mtr quit smoking !...............

 

327eric, I assume that you disassemble your carburetors before subjecting it to a hot Pinesol bath, my uncle didn’t. He just put it in a pot, filled it with water and boiled it. He was a character.
I am going to try the hot Pinesol trick. Does it work equally well with aluminum and zinc bodied carbs?

 

If you've ever torn down an engine with "cylinder glazing" you know what it is. It's an extremely hard smooth "coating", almost like glass.

There was a short time window on a new or rebuilt engine for piston rings to "wear in" to the cylinder walls. This is why once a camshaft was broken in the engine was immediately put under load, because that was the only way piston rings would seat against cylinder walls. Excessive no load idle time was to be avoided for this reason.

Modern piston ring and cylinder materials and special surface treatments have largely obviated this problem.

The problem then as now once cylinders become glazed over, it is more or less a permanent problem. It would be an "oil burner". The correct way to fix this problem is to remove the pistons and deglaze the cylinders, restore the cross hatch and try again. It's pretty easy to see why a "field fix" that doesn't involve major engine disassembly, downtime or warranty service, makes the problem go bye-bye, was well received by dealers and field reps.

 

Ugh…..what is a “ de-coke”?








Bones

 

The end of the party in the 70's and 80's.

 

One example of cylinder glazing that sticks out in my mind was on another automotive forum. Guy was complaining of excessive smoke and oil consumption, both were real bad. Mosquito fogger. Brand new rebuit engine, everything new, spared no expense.

Turns out what happened, he had broken the camshaft in as normal everything went fine. It was a mystery to everyone. But with some more careful questioning on engine break-in it was finally revealed that for some reason, I don't recall what it was, he couldn't actually get the engine installed into the car for about a year or so.

But he liked to listen to the engine, so for the year or so while it was on the stand he'd go out and regularly start it. Note well this was after camshaft break-in, but before piston rings were run-in, under load on the road.

He said it was easily maybe 25 hours total of idle time and maybe blipping the throttle a bit. Oops!

 

Back in the day some of this shit worked. I would not do it today but, I have used STP as assembly lube on bearings in several Chevrolet engines with great success. I learned it from a circle track racer in the mid 1970's. Thought he was crazy then but he built some bad ass engines and back then he knew a lot more than I did.[/QUOTE]

STP was used in the cylinders to get the pistons in and keep lube on them until it was cranked and running. We used white lithium grease on the cam, lifters, and in the bearing shells for the same reason. Didn't know any better, we just did what the old timers told us to do, and it worked. Never lost a bearing, a cam, or a set of rings or pistons doing it that way. Truth is, all the wonderful assembly lubes available now were probably hard to find in rural areas, so guys used what they had that worked.

 

STP was used in the cylinders to get the pistons in and keep lube on them until it was cranked and running. We used white lithium grease on the cam, lifters, and in the bearing shells for the same reason. Didn't know any better, we just did what the old timers told us to do, and it worked. Never lost a bearing, a cam, or a set of rings or pistons doing it that way. Truth is, all the wonderful assembly lubes available now were probably hard to find in rural areas, so guys used what they had that worked.[/QUOTE]




Yep!








Bones

 

your repeating your self !!

 

I think you have to realize the scale of an "abrasive". An analogy would be polishing paint with 80 grit vs 1500 grit. I think the original Bon Ami was a very mild abrasive so small and soft that it actually removes scratches and polishes metal surfaces improving sealing surfaces. They still use it for polishing SST cookware today. There may have also been a chemical interaction that helped remove or etch the glazing on cylinder walls. Piston ring lands today have a very fine finish which we know is critical to ring sealing. The actual amount of metal removed was probably in the tenths of thousands range or less. Surely the amount ingested into an engine would have to be optimized. No doubt manufactures experimented and evaluated the results.

 

I do disassemble the Carb. I've met guys who have dropped assembled carbs in the dip tank, so I know what your talking about. I have done aluminum, zinc, brass, steel and chinesium with good results

 

You guys need to go in to the Cat parts house and buy some of the ring seal or whatever they call it.
Its on the shelve and if you read the fine print on the can it says 'packaged for Cat by Bonami"
don't believe me,go look for your selves.
It works.

 

Now that's funny.

QUOTE="randydupree, post: 14311033, member: 6282"]You guys need to go in to the Cat parts house and buy some of the ring seal or whatever they call it.
Its on the shelve and if you read the fine print on the can it says 'packaged for Cat by Bonami"
don't believe me,go look for your selves.
It works.[/QUOTE]
Cat 7F5225:
http://www.engineprofessional.com/articles/EPQ318_82-85.pdf

Cheers,
Harv