1952-59 Ford Front Suspension Rebuild Kit for ‘59

So, turns out we need to replace the lower ball joints and lower control arm bushings on my sons 59 Edsel. I searched the FAQ sticky, but didn't see anything on recommendations on stock suspension rebuild parts. My local parts store only shows Rare Parts as a supplier for this stuff and the prices were STUPID high. Anyway, I found a few kits for all the front end parts online with a more reasonable price, but figured someone here has surely rebuilt a 59 front suspension and had an opinion on what to use? Not sure we need a whole kit, but thinking the price may be better depending how we go. Thanks for any help.

Jeff

 

Maybe ask 1930artdeco he is working on a 57 and recently did all the front suspension. I occasionally see old NOS suspension sets on eBay. I also seems the seller that has almost whole kits. It seems to the same seller and there is a website with the same kits also. I mean some people want OEM ford stuff. Other just want old Moog. Of course the newer stuff may be made cheaper. But who knows? I have a front end rebuild in my future also.

 

Good point on the old Moog parts. We recently rebuilt the front end in my sons pickup and some of the new Moog parts didn’t even fit. I know there is definitely a difference in quality, so am just trying to find someone who has maybe done it recently. I may check with 1930artdeco as you suggested. Thanks!

 

I used these guys when I rebuilt my '54 Customline front suspension. The quality of the parts were good and I liked the price. No complaints!
1959 1960 Edsel Full Size New Front End Suspension Rebuild Kit with Upper HEX Control Arm Bushings - www.a-resto-parts.com

 

Thanks @evintho! I saw that kit and hoped someone has experience with that place! That’s what I needed to hear!

 

The lower ball joints and tie rods are hard to get as made in the US. Upper ball joints are more available from Moog or NOS TRW. They were used on later Fords.

My ball joint and tie rod kits may have come from Concours Ford. I was not able to turn the ball joint studs to line up the cotter pin hole. The boots split even before I drove the car. The tie rods made in India, came with a mis-match of castle nuts, I used my old ones. One I had to use a washer under the nut, the pin hole was way off.

If you really strike out, I have the number of a local guy with a lot of NOS parts and he's good to deal with.

 

Thanks for the heads up! More good info. I plan to call my buddy this morning that owns a NAPA and is also a hot rodder. He is typically pretty good at helping me out as well before I start searching otherwise.

 

Jeff, for many decades the go-to country for rubber components was India. That was long before China sourcing. The original balljoints that I rebuilt my '57 with came from Concourse, and like Bob's, didn't make it to the road before they started cracking. When I replaced them last year because of those boots,, I called Rare Parts and asked them where they got the boots for their in-shop, "USA-made" ball joints. Whoever I talked to kept referring to "his" shop, but, however, didn't know where the ball joint boots were made. Go figure.
Anyway, when I chose my source last year, I specifically looked for ball joints made in India as I've come to believe our issue hasn't been the ball joints themselves, but the boots. One year, and so far the boots are still looking great.

 

I used the same source as evintho on my 58, so far so good.

 

Well, I just ended up ordering the kit from a-resto-parts and will report back once I get it and everything is installed. I actually had to order a different kit than the one listed above by @evintho since the upper control arm bushings are a different style (screw-in). However, they had them too. I found the lower control arm bushings locally through NAPA, but they didn't have a source other than Rare Parts for the ball joints which happened to be $180 EACH for reference. I got the whole kit with upper and lower ball joints, control arm bushings, tie-rod ends, etc. for $269 plus shipping. So, just dropped $300 on all this which is half of one of my boy's bi-weekly paychecks. He will be thrilled. Anyway, thanks for all the input. It is definitely appreciated and hopefully I can report back on all this soon (mainly so I can get my junk daily back from my son and not have to drive my 56 daily right now that is also mostly worn out).

 

Best off to toss the rubber boots and use these. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp

 

Be sure to check clearance on lower bushings once installed. Sometimes they require shims.

 

Definitely check out Mike’s 1930ArtDeco post on the 57 forum for rebuild trials and issues. Even knocking out and take apart the set can take some work. Try not to damage the rings around the upper a-arm bushings. I recall having to weld and file mine because they had cracks.
I think the seller of those parts also has the tie rod ends. also if you will be lowering the suspension, time to get those springs in.

 

I bought my stuff from Pre 60's parts out of Canada. They are NOS MOOG from when they were made here. The lowers themselves were $250 and the rubber is just fine. If they hold up and all I have to do in the future is just replace the rubber then that is not bad. Doing a front end is no cheap feat anymore.

Mike

 

So, we are finally in the middle of totally rebuilding the front suspension. One question so far...what is the trick to getting the shafts out of the lower control arms where they go through the frame? The rear one knocked out fairly easy after I broke it loose turning the hex. The front one doesn’t want to budge at all so far. I was able to wiggle the control arm out without removing that shaft, but don’t suspect it will go back together with the new bushings.

 

Jeff...........When I did mine, I soaked with a penetrating oil for a few days, then use a BFH.........but, I wasn't concerned with damaging them as I already had new replacements.

 

Mine gave up without a fight. Go with the penetrating oil tip above. Or try an impact hammer with a dull punch. I don't recall if mine came with new bolts or not. But one of the new bushing rubbers is starting to split already. The OG ones hung in there for 81,000 miles. Take note of which way the bushings go in, I had one in backwards and had to fix it.

 

Thanks guys. I’ll try soaking it a few days and a BFH. I screwed a bolt in the end so hopefully I can smack it without messing up the end of the shaft or the threads. More to come.

 

I screwed a bolt in so it was shouldered and hammered on that while also applying rotational load on the large hex head with a breaker bar and 3 foot cheater pipe, while also applying heat to the outer sleeve. They came reluctantly.

James

 

Got everything apart and back together today. Actually, we only had one of the lower shafts that was a real pain. Not sure what trick finally got it, but between soaking it, screwing a bolt in the end that I drilled a shallow hole to insert my air hammer bit in, heat, an air hammer, and a 10 lb sledge finally, it did come out. Everything seemed to go together alright, just hope we get good life out of the parts. Looking forward to having it back on the road after it has sat for a few weeks now. Silas was pretty excited to finally get it done today.

 

Nice going. I did my final lower arm tightening on the alignment rack, at right height. This is why one of my bushings tore, I may have socked it down while it was jacked up.

 

Congrats on the suspension but WTF is hanging from the rafters of your shop? 1960's shift knob on steroids'?

 

Lol! Not my shop actually. I am good friends with Sid Drapal (Nostalgia Sid’s Dropped Axles) and we used one of his axle presses to push in the bushings. That skull is actually a prop from Pirates of the Caribbean and Sid put an axle in its mouth to simulate some t-shirt artwork that B-Scott did for him. I drew up the sign and skeleton arms and hands and we waterjet those at my work. Anyway, it’s a cool thing to have hanging in the rafters.

 

Nothing wrong with a skull shifter.

 

Not as long as it is small enough to get your hand around it!

 

Thanks for that reminder on final tightening of the lower control arm bushings. I didn’t even really think of that as we put this together. After your comment, I went back and loosened them up before we drove it, bounced up and down a few times, and tightened them with all the weight on the car since that is easy under my lift. Not sure why I didn’t consider that they would be in a bind tightening them prior to setting the car down under its weight.