Projects 1930 Oliver Roadster Build

That looks cool. Do you have a build thread on it? I saw iron trap matt do something similar but idk. Im still not positive i need to split the bones at all...i mean, its getting a flathead ford and trans

 

before i split mine they hung so low i figured i would and up hitting something with it.

 

I likely will end up splittin em, already have bungs...just feel like i should get her together first and make sure it needs it. Ive seen some low roadsters with unsplit bones, not sure the contributing factors

 

Welded in some sub frame tonight, also got a patch in the pass quarter, also got the drivers quarter welded in, starting to take shape! Also all of the wonkyness is starting to work itself out and things are squaring up. The doors are going to need work regardless since i changed the width of the dodge tub

 

Starting to take shape.

 

Seat riser last night, not sure what its out of, model a maybe? Set the 46 rear in but its too wide! Surprise! So im going to pick up that 36 ford rear from my buddy and stick the juice brakes on it with the wide 5 drums

 

Little more progress, started to form a piece to go across behind/part of the seat back. Idk if its a package tray or whatever, will be inside the seat, made a cardboard template so i can make sure everything is the same side to side. Also cut down one stanchion for the windshield. I dig it as of now, may go lower or may try to make a hallock windshield since this thing has a major cockpit look to it

 

Little bit o work tonight, started by pulling the body, its rigid enough to move now and a lot of the work i need to do to it would be better if my frame is sorted first!

 

I really like pauls 27 T roadster and the sweep he did to the rear frame. I may still need to clearance some for axle travel but wont know that for a bit yet. I just so happen to have a cpl 27 chev rear frame horns which have a nice sweep to them already! Since I will be mounting my rear crossmember to them I tried to keep the section of the chev frame parallel to my a frame. It will get the crossmember installed before where it dips back down. I am also adding 10 inches to the frame for a spring in front front end and a spring behind rear end.

 

Jeebus dude, between two ADD projects you think you could invest in some blasting or rust removal? What you are doing is pretty damn sketchy. Take some pride

 

Lots of measurements, going to use a diagonsl c

Not sure what youre talking about lol you must think you have some insights into my plans? You dont...you COULD ask if you wanted to know instead of casting disperaging remarks from judgement mountain

 

#hackjob

Glad you are having fun and I enjoy your drive but please slow down and do it right. tacking rusty parts together is not building a hot rod. Thia discussion was settled 20 years ago on this board.

 

Lots of measuring. Double checking, clamping and more measuring. I marked the intersecting points where the chev horns pass the a frame, gave me a 50 degree angle which should be plenty for strength, measure 10 inches from the center of the rear crossmember to account for my spring/axle choices and maintain my wheelbase

 

Parts, both frame, suspension and body, should be clean BEFORE you start welding. Basic rod building 101. Just slow down a bit and prep stuff first.

 

The frame isnt welded and will be cleaned before i weld, not before i cut. Not my first time cutting and modding a frame

 

Also measured my front crossmember and its meant to be! AA 2" front crossmember, exactly what I needed for the later front spring

 

Lots of work ahead but the mockup pictures show a pretty nice profile, well worth pursuing I think.

 

Thanks, yeah ive never built anything like this, was a little nerve racking in the junkyard trying to figure out if it was going to look good put together. I think its gonna be neat. I wanted to finish patching and putting sub structure in but started thinking the frame mods should get done first so i can drill holes and actually mount the body, it moves around too much as of now to finalize anything

 

Doing more thinking and measuring, going to overlap the splice top and bottom, will allow me to make the transition look smoother as well as stronger

 

There is a correct way to do it..............


There are lots of guys here that have lots of experience and would be willing to give you good advice, if you would only allow them to.........

 

Ive done it "better" and "best" before several times each. I havnt refused any advice from anyone. What you have pictured is a straight frame to straight frame extension, im adding an angled piece, my rosettes on my fish plate will be staggered, i actually was drawing it out last night but didnt see a need to post the drawing. I appreciate advice! What i dont appreciate is ego flexing by keyboard warriors. I dont appreciate negativity like #hackjob im building MY CAR. Im building it safely and while i dont know everything and im certainly no expert, i am doing this better than some of you are ASSuming. Feel free to give advice, feel free to pm me even! But dont come onto my build thread and start trashing on me without having all of the facts and expect me to hump your leg and thank you profusely for it. Nobody would, yourselves included

 

That's a strange way to react to good advice.......

 

Sent you a P.M.

 

Sometimes it's not what you tell a person it's how you say it.

 

I'm sort of sorry I tried to help at all. I'll leave him to do it his way........

 

Anyway... moving on. Lots of cleaning cutting and welding tonight. Angle finder says its perfect side to side, angle also matches the lower (original) rails, level says its level side to side, measuring tape says the lengths are even and straight edge says i got it on running in a straight line. Last pic is of the stencil i plan to use to make my fish plates for the outside. Inside plates will be less interesting looking. Then the frame gets boxed

 

Got some parts today, 36 rear! Cpl model t door latches im gonna see if i can get to work and a neat chrysler badge

 

Damn! why would anyone torch 36 radius rods like that?

 

No idea, i think it was done a long time ago. Gonna mix and match with the 46 rear i have