Hot Rods # 10 Track Roadster Build- Marty Strode

Next step is a rotisserie so you can weld everything in position, sitting down!

 

I like the seats! I am trying to make seats for my track T, what I am doing is not working. You mentioned making a hood, well that is another thing I need to do but with a big bulge to clear the valve cover with my big 4 cyl, and I have not a clue how to start. I can see myself wasting a couple sheets of metal and still not have anything usable! I see making a hood then a bulge and welding the two together with another skill I am not that good at!

 

At 75 getting down onto the creeper can be a challenge, but getting up can be worse without access to a hoist. The worst part is when you go through all of the effort to get down and into position and realize that one critical tool is still on the workbench and you need to get back up and do it all over.

The joys of geezerhood can be stressful at times.

 

I bought the seats from Speedway, they are not the quality of the Hunt Seats, that they used to sell, but they will be fine. Why don't you post a picture of your car to give us an idea, of where the bulge will need to be. If it doesn't fall in the area where the top meets the sides (if in fact you are running sides) you could do something along the lines of what I did on the Lakester to clear the plug wires.

 

Luckily, so far, I don't have a problem getting down and up, it's getting into a contorted position and then running the pedal on the tig, with the side of my knee. I should have used my Lincoln welder instead of the Airco, it has a lower, very supple pedal. It's the only one I use, when install roll bars and cages inside of closed cars.

 

You ever use a thumb wheel instead of a pedal? Whole different key and song but sure is nice at times!

 

Marty, your pictures show exactly what I have in mind to do, but the hands don't do what the mind wants most of the time! I did buy a English wheel but don't know how to use it right, I have a sand bag, again never used. I just need to do something knowing there will be mistakes. Here's what I need a hood for. I have the hood that was on it and I'm sure it will help to make something.

 

Another from the front. Still thinking maybe picking the engine up maybe a 1/2 inch, as the pan is lower then the axle.

 

Looks like with a little work you could cut up that Jaguar hood to fit . . . ?

 

That looks like one of Jim Sandlin's kits, with the 26-27 back end, and the early cowl. I would raise the engine to the desired height, mount it, and then decide on the height and rough shape, of the hood bubble, making a template gauge. Remove the engine, and probably form and fit a new hood, out of 3003, .063 aluminum. You could then, make a wooden mockup with the shape and contours fore an aft. I have a tucking stump I made out of oak, with a couple of pockets, and modified a wooden Baseball bat, to use as a hammer. Another tool I use, to go along with the English wheel, is an inexpensive Planishing Hammer, to smooth out some of the minor lumps. I think you will be amazed at what you can do after annealing the metal. The thing to remember is, the bubble you are forming is just raw metal, not an expensive part to replace. If you are not happy with the first one make another, until you are satisfied. If you use 1100 welding rod, it will be easier to file finish. I am not an expert at anything, including shaping aluminum, but for being mostly self taught, my work is at least "paint grade". I have a friend who is a master, Chris Kopp, who taught me how to file, and gets me out of jams ! Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress, One more thing, you will need a set of stretcher-shrinkers. Good luck !

 

Marty,
Glad you mentioned the 'shrinking stump'. My son is clearing his property and I have my choice of oak or hickory stumps. My limited woodworking tells me that hickory is harder. Is that a good thing? How big in diameter should I shoot for? And what is a good working height? I know I don't want to bend over any more that I have to. Elbow height? Finally, does a guy want to band the stump to slow down the tendency to split?

Thanx for documenting your builds and taking the time to explain the thinking behind your methods.

Bruce

 

The Jag is sitting right there and I never thought to look at it! Can't cut that one up but have a friend that might have a bent up nose. Will have to look at that.

 

Thank you Marty for your knowledge. It all has to come back apart and I will get started on it. Best thing I could come up with would be a Cotten wood stump up here. I will look into it.
That is that magazine car I had bought last year. I was told that is a Superior body. I could not find anything about it. It is titled as a 27. Not knowing anything about T's when I bought it I didn't know! I have 3 pedals in it now, currently has a Muncie 4 speed.

 

Bruce, if hickory is harder that's what I would use. My current stump is Oak and around 14" in diameter. I like a working height of around 30", if you can get a full height piece of wood, I would do that instead of setting it on a stand. Rocky Phillips @Toymaker, brought me a chunk of Chinese Elm, that I will be bowling out soon, and I will wrap it with plumber's tape.

 

Is your oak red or white? I would look for white as it is tougher than red. I wouldn't use the hickory for something like a shrinking stump as it's brittle. It has a lot of strength and flexibility along the line of the grain which makes it great for axe and hammer handles but if you hit it on the end, it can shatter and you'll have a mess of splinters. Since you're using stumps, look at the end grain. First pic is red oak, second is white. Hope this helps.

 

I remember Superior building that style of body now. Good luck with all of your projects.

 

alamp561,
After reading your post I did a Google search on identifying oak trees. I'm pretty sure that the majority of oak trees around here are in the 'Red' oak family. I will definitely look at the trees that have to come down and put my tag on the best candidate.
Not to be contrary, because these are free logs, I will probably have him cut me a hickory one too. Can't hurt to have a big chunk of wood around.

I didn't know there was so much to learn about wood when building cars

 

When I was clearing some of my property out to make room for a house and barn just east of Muskegon, MI there was definitely more red oak than white but there was an awful lot of white and a small amount of black oak. I air dried the white and used it for the framework of a sailboat I built. Very tough stuff. As far as the hickory, I wouldn't pass on it because good hardwood is getting harder to find. If you can find any ash, grab it. I know the Emerald Borers have just about killed it off up there but if there's dead trees still standing, grab them. Great stuff for replacing woodwork in the older cars.

 

What other species of trees can work? Maple, chestnut, ???

My back woods have some of the above, haven't looked to see what's fallen lately, but I'm due to take a hike out there soon.

 

Kinda funny you guys debating the strength of woods. Any wood will work fine. Unless you are going to pound on the stump all day, every day, it will last for what you need to do.

 

Hey we love debate! And we take de bait every time! (Just a bad play on words...)

 

I started out in 72 with a shunt controlled Miller Econo Tig, 150 Amp. You would set the make your setting at the machine, and with a toggle switch and a hi frequency button (both on the torch) go to work. When I bough my 300 Lincoln in '76, I had the option of an Amptrol, Lincoln's new invention. They are commonplace today, but I never got around to getting one.

 

Marty
You've heard the term "wingman" I'm sure, well that was never me but I can say I've been a TIG pedal man a few times.

 

This may sound odd or funny, depending on your point of view but for as long as I've been welding, I've never used a TIG welding machine with any kind of accessory arc control on it. All my experience has been in the field where the only protection from the elements is something temporary to block the wind, rain or snow. Turning on the gas, striking an arc and going for it has been my only TIG method and it continues that way today, even in my shop. Maybe I've missed something? I don't know about that but I do know that my welds always passed X-ray.

 

Doug, you remember Rick, who helped me for a while, he could run the pedal, and hand me filler rod, so I could weld continuous, with my hood down !

 

Alan, I find the pedal handy for a lot of reasons, welding thin to thick material, welding thin aluminum, and pulling the power down at the end of a weld, without flashing off. I would never go back to shunt controlled welding again.

 

Yes I do, if I remember right you were mentoring Rick at the time you built the wing for my shifterkart.
I really don't know how you can TIG out of position on some applications without an assistant to run the foot pedal Marty.

 

Today I fabbed a dash and a firewall skin. Here are the steps, using my template.

 

Here are the steps for the firewall skin. There will be a another .050 plate sandwiched between the bellhousing and the block, that allows a seal, and floats.

 

The inner firewall will be similar to this one.