Help! Can’t start my 1941 Dodge. Frustrated!

Pull the ground cable and sand the contact surfaces

 

The carb is going to need some fuel pressure and volume to work properly. For a test, you might want to get some rubber line and a cheapo in line fuel pump just rigged up to the battery, and just pump it from a small tank of fuel. That auxiliary fuel system will be sufficient to get a good test and run in done before you replumb your permanent lines.

 

@6sally6 anything with particularly volatile esters that readily wash oil away is not recommended for an engine that's been sat and not run for a while.

Clean, fresh gasoline is the best choice in this case.
(Granted, gasoline washes away oil but not half as easily as starting fluid)

 

Carbs don't really need fuel pressure and volume to work, enough to get an engine started. If you fill the float bowl, that's plenty for it. I do this all the time.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-bfb

This type of squeezy bottle is your friend for this task.

Also useful for putting a bit down the barrel if you find the throttle pump doesn't work. See: "Far too much. Perfect!"


Phil

 

Was that a derek quote?

 

Battery is dead now. No amps, no crank or click. Gotta recharge and try again later..

 

I’ll try this out, battery is dead now. No more cranks or amps.

 

Everything is good except for checking the TDC. Even a little off timing should produce some backfire. Update: battery is dead. No amps, cranking, or signs of life. Hopefully I didn’t short something out. Didn't stress the starter out at all…

 

I need to get the right tool for that.

 

Everything is clean and put in the right spot.

UPDATE: Battery died. No more amps or cranking. Hopefully I didn’t short something out

 

Since the truck has traveled around some, could have had a few sets of hands on it

The L6 should have a 1/8th in pipe plug centered over #6. As I recall you rotate the engine until you feel compression on #1 plug hole, then use and indicator/ dowel etc down the pipe plug hole until it at TDC. This puts #1 at TDC on compression. Now pull the cap and see where the rotor it pointing.
If someone has pulled the distributor in the past to put the points etc in, it’s pretty easy to have it a true 180 out. The cam drives the oil pump. The pump has a slot in it, there’s no gear on the distributor. The distributor shaft has a blade on the end that fits into the slot.
So you can put it in correctly or 180 out. Then verify proper plug routing and firing order in direction of rotor travel.
If you happen to be 90 (let’s say) degrees out, that means someone replaced the oil pump and didn’t index it back to where it was, in that case you’d have to move all the wires on the cap to a new spot.
I’m sure it’s also been mention to clean and verify the point gap as well.

 

~60 degrees advanced (wires indexed 1 out) will just kick back against the starter. Doesnt really pop or bang much, just throws back against the compression stroke. Certainly enough to make a tired starter or weak battery complain.

 

How should I research this operation so I know exactly what I’m doing? A video perhaps? All I have is the Army shop manual

 

Search Keith's Garage on YouTube. He has all the videos you need to get this engine running. The "No Spark" videos explain the timing steps.

Here is a link to his channel:
https://youtube.com/channel/UCVoBq2i7wl4w0W4JB6cAMjg

 

When I get in from the shop I’ll see if I can find it in one of my manuals.

Edit: I’ll verify it in a few hours with my 218.

 

As you can see 1 and 6 are in the same position.

 

So do this…

Pull all the plugs
Take the 1/8th in pipe plug out
Rotate the engine till you feel air coining out of #1
slip a dowel/rod etc into the pipe plug hole
Keep rotating the engine (all by hand) until the dowel/etc reaches its apex
Pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing

 

Ok I’ll do this. Would cranking the engine with #1 plug out only break anything?

And when I reach TDC and the distributor rotor is pointing #1, how should I proceed if the engine still won’t fire away? Thanks a lot by the way

 

Good stuff thank the Lord this guy loves to teach. And thank YOU

 

Had similar issue with a 48 Dodge after rebuild set points ,checked timing ,fuel pressure good have spark at plugs just would not fire. Let my buddy Ed look at it he adjusted the choke and presto running engine, Calls me to see what the problem was lesson learned. Set up every thing the first time !

 

Step one verify this .


Your truck should be 6volt positive ground .

your battery cables should be large and positive going to the frame .
Your cables may be getting hot as someone might have put the generic store bought 12volt cables on .


You need to properly check compression with a gauge , flat head engine like to stick valves when they have been left sitting for a while .

1 Confirm your base engine timing
2 Confirm the distributor is in correctly
3 Your tune up is good ( cap rotor , points , confessor , wires plugs , coil etc.)
4 Carburetor is clean and working
5 clean source of fuel ( a jerry can on the roof , gravity feeding the carb iinto the fuel line is fine )
6 hard to check without it running but make sure you have no obvious vacuum leaks
7 check you have good fat spark from the coil snd the plugs
8 have a good freshly charged battery and battery charger
9 when no ones looking take your index finger and get right up in your undercarriage and have a good scratch
10 drink a beer
11 repeat step 10 and report back .

this can all be checked in under 2 hours with the scratching and beer drinking .

report back

 

Did not realize it was a military truck .

my buddy had a 24 volt gmc years back that was on a Canadian Air Force base.

what is the battery voltage of your truck snd is it positive or negative ground ?

 

Okay, slow down. Take all the plugs out. That way there is no compression in the cylinders and air goes out the spark plug holes.
Takes a fairly large socket, like 1.25 inch? Or so, to fit on the crank pulley. It’s dark and I can’t confirm size right now.
With a 1/2in ratchet and socket -by hand- rotate the engine until you feel air coming out of #1 spark plug hole. Put your finger over it to seal it, you’ll know when it on compression.
I’m in the shop right now for a bit, gonna PM my number to you and maybe talking through will give you a better understanding of what I’m saying.
And for reference, taking a plug out won’t break anything

 

Check your PMs

 

Roger that, had a friend test the compression; all good. Finger on the spark plug holes. Lemme call you tomorrow as I’m not at the airport atm.

 

I’ll give you a sit-rep after all is done with your steps

 

The only thing you'd break would be the back of your head if it actually starts with one plug out.
It makes one hell of a noise, and you will most likely wallop your head on the hood as you reflexively jump.

The engine still be fine.

 

Positive.



Here's a cranking video