To straighten, firstly get it as reasonably close as you can by hand and then sandwich between two boards (say 1/2"ply) and roll it straight between the boards by moving one board over the other. Chris
Mike solved a cu-ni brake line problem he had. Cut up the NAPA lines, reused the flare nuts, same Eastwood tool; but with steel lines; no more leaks.
Most of the steel lines sticks at the part stores around here have that polyvinyl fluoride (PVF) coating. It makes them hard to deal with if cutting to length and re-flaring. Copper nickel is easier to work with than coated steel.
I used to use steel lines then I tried the copper/nickel several years ago and I can honestly say I will never use steel line again. I use copper/nickel for brake and fuel lines. I have even successfully created bubble flares using a double flare tool and copper/nickel line many times and have never had a leak ... try that with steel
I have . worked for 6 years . Kid that bought it moved to S Carolina & I lost track of him & the car .
To straighten I picked up a kind of tubing straightening tool at Pricess Auto, the original Harbor Freight, for under twenty bucks and it works well.
I don't have one of me flaring brake tubing but here is one of me bending exhaust pipe. My wife, as you can see, is clearly impressed as there is no crimping in the bend without the use of a mandrel.
You're Steve Reeves? You've really held up well for your age and so has your wife. I thought at first she was your daughter
I've never had any problems flaring steel lines but my neighbor tells me that stainless lines are hard to do.
Hard to do? Yes. But nothing is stronger, and nothing looks better IMO than polished SS brake and fuel lines. “Easy” isn’t my top priority.
I should have said stainless is easy when using the proper tools and proper AN fittings. Single 37 deg. flare, never had a leaker. Not the look for everyone but last forever!
I have a tube straightener similar to the picture below. It works great on brake lines and fuel lines. Once it is straight, you can do a much better job of laying it out and bending it accurately.
As promised here’s a pic of the nicop with stainless covering. I still haven’t got to one of the projects that I used it in harsh environments though. @martystrode commented on having no problems using steel and I agree 100%. But I like it for the corrosive resistance properties.
Buy extra. I recently used a few feet of it to protect the plastic oil line from my dune buggy's VW motor to the dash mounted gauge.