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Technical BBC top end noise and slight pop at high RPM.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ccain, Jan 23, 2022.

  1. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 3,619

    SS327

    Not shotgunning at all. Just previous experience.
     
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  2. Had a rather long night last night, not vehicle related... just know that for me, it's still early and I'm only on cup number 2 of coffee. So bear with if this strays off. :D (edit: I started writing this this AM and just now got back to posting it. So... It's not early anymore but still kinda feels like it. After last night, it's painfully apparent that I'm not in my 20's anymore. ;):p)

    But, yeah. We're all a little guilty of scuba-diving when we should be just snorkeling at times. That's why I ask you guys. I take everything you guys say into consideration, apply it to what I see here physically, then take baby steps from there.

    You guys are like the Wikipedia everything automotive and having access to this much collective knowledge is just damned amazing. As much as I hate new stuff, I do love living in the future. :cool:

    I learned the hard way, several times in my younger life, to NOT be just a parts changer. I mean, yeah, you can eventually fix your issue if you replace enough parts. It's simple math, as long as you have the funds to do it.

    My kid just bought a house (closing is this week and they should be all settled in by mid-February) and I'm living on a pension, so... I'm not gonna just yank this thing willy-nilly, put it on a stand, and rebuild it if I don't have to -OR- just to feel better about it. Quite frankly, that doesn't fit in either of our budgets right now.

    Besides, I kinda like the Sherlock Holmes aspect of deducing whats wrong. There is a base cause for everything. I think that's where most of us get stuck. The "what if this", and "what if that" thing starts to take over and before you know it, the crank is off getting polished and you're waiting on a backordered part that doesn't need to be replaced in the first place... been there.

    So far there are some parts that absolutely DO need to be replaced. Plug wires are toast, the plugs were clean without deposits or anything but once (and this is my grandfather talking) I pull a plug, I toss it and replace it. Plugs are cheap.

    You'll will be pleased to know that this old thing ain't hurting for compression (weird too because I got a new compression tester for Christmas that I was dying to use.), so we've got that going for us. I broke a vacuum line... no biggie. And, this is giving me the chance to go around and tidy up some of the PO's wiring spaghetti and what not.

    But, as it stands right now, I'm following the lead on just walking around this thing, closely inspecting everything.

    I had a thought. Judging from the pristine metal-core, silicone valve cover gaskets on this thing, the PO had it apart at some point recently. As I understand it, rocker arm nuts are a one-time use thing. If he had the heads off to be machined and to have the valve seals replaced... etc, then put everything back together using the original stuff (rocker arm nuts included), wouldn't that make for a situation where the rocker arm nuts don't have enough crimp left on them to keep them from backing off? I dunno. Again, I'm only on coffee number two. :p

    Serious (and probably stupid) question time: I understand there will be rocker arm movement with the lifters bled down. Looking this whole thing over, #5 exhaust valve rocker seems to be the only one that is super sloppy compared to the rest (sorry for the quality of the gif I posted). Having said that, will I run the risk of binding and breaking something if I just go through, spin the crank to bring things up on each cylinder as I go, and tighten things down to where I can just spin the pushrods a little? OR, would it be advisable to spin the oil pump and prime this thing first, then tighten things down with the lifters primed?

    Again, THANK YOU for all of the info. I'm not blowing smoke up your keisters, or trying to make your heads swell, it's just that you guys have a wide reaching span of knowledge and I would be a fool not to prey upon it. :D:cool::cool::cool:

    Thanks again!!!
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2022
    Deuces likes this.
  3. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,991

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    You do not need to "oil up" valves before setting them . rocker arm nuts are , by all means , reusable . find reference to the EOIC method of adjusting valves , a starter button will make life easier , ( you can bump the motor over with the starter) . posi-lock rocker arm nuts are much easier to work with IMO , not expensive either .
    If it were mine , I would remove the offending rocker , pushrod ,& lifter before doing anything else , take an extra few minutes !
     
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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,230

    squirrel
    Member

    I leave plugs in if they still work. I carry a spare, though. I've driven some cars recently with really old spark plugs in them, a long ways, just to prove that your grandpa was wrong :)

    No, they're a use them until they get easy to turn thing. If they're mostly all kind of easy to turn, replace them all. If they're still easy to turn, replace the studs, too. They also wear out.

    The pushrod will spin when the valve adjustment is way too tight. As I tried to explain earlier, you need to get it loose enough that there is actual free play between the rocker and valve tip, then tighten till the free play just goes away. Then turn it another half turn to preload the lifter.
     
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  5. Yeah, I dug this old man outta storage. :p. Sears?!? Really? Jebus I'm old! I bought this NEW. :eek:

    [​IMG]

    Okay, (and please know, I mean no offense to anyone else in the comments) but I told my wife when I first posted this thread that If I can get @squirrel to chime in on this, we're gonna be okay. :cool::cool::cool: Thank you!!!
     
  6. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,029

    Budget36
    Member

    I’ve the same remote, still have the dwell/tach “big box” as well. Bought it in early mid 80’s.
    Still works!
     
  7. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,029

    Budget36
    Member

    That’s a real good point, (push rod spinning when tight or contacting the rocker/lifter). I think that’s what messes up many new installs/scratch adjustments. It should be from contact, then do preload.
    I have do do this soon with a fresh set of lifters and cam, hope I still have the “feel” :)
     
    Deuces likes this.
  8. Like this one?

    [​IMG]

    Didn't buy this one new, but my grandad did. Like in '83 or something. All the crap is still in bags in the back. I've used it exactly twice.
     
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  9. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,029

    Budget36
    Member

    May have bumped into him at Sears;)

    Without going to look at mine, yes, same thing:)

    Edit: yes, all of mine is put back in the plastic bags too! I might top ya though, mine is put back in the box;)
     
    Deuces likes this.
  10. Showoff! :D:D:D
     
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  11. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,029

    Budget36
    Member

    What’s funny I only have a few things in my 60 years I’ve taken well care of, why this thing was on e of them, I’ve no idea;)
     
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