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Technical General build suggestions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Devon Schevers, Feb 7, 2022.

  1. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    Hi all, finally getting back on the t bucket build my dad and I started a couple of years back. We have pretty much everything figured out except for how I want to build the engine. The current specs are as follows:
    1958 283 .030
    305 #416 heads
    Stock 305/283 internals (except with .030 pistons obviously)
    Lakes headers
    Stock 2004r
    Ford 9"
    Rear tires will be around 31" tall Firestone 750-16 bias ply

    Now for my questions

    1. If I run, say, the lunati clone of the 097
    (30121009) what springs do I need to run? I reached out to lunati with no luck, and can't find any information anywhere

    2. What gearing should I run in the rear end with these parts for good performance, I will be driving it basically everyday, but won't be doing too much highway driving

    3. I have a Holley 1850-3 600cfm vaccum secondary, will that be too much/not enough for my engine?

    I know only the basics of engine building, and have forgotten all I learned when I first started the project, so any extra knowledge would be super helpful and greatly appreciated.
     
  2. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 20,063

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    I'll leave the valve spring choice to the experts but with those tall tires I think 4.11 gears will be fun in that car and that 283 will love it too.
    I had a bone stock (and tired) 283 with a Holley 1850 on it and it ran great.
    Edit
    Oh yeah, I forgot, the 283 loooved 4.11's.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2022
  3. Use low pressure valve springs for your break in.After you have a few miles on it change them to what the cam really calls for.You want to give that flat tappet cam/lifter combo every chance of surviving break in.Make sure the lifters spin freely in their bores too.
     
    Devon Schevers likes this.
  4. Almostdone
    Joined: Dec 19, 2019
    Posts: 949

    Almostdone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A low 4-point something gear sounds good. With the 0.7 4th gear of that trans and the tall tire you’ll be at about 1800 rpm at 65-70 and the 3.06? first gear will be a lot of fun. I have a similar setup.

    John
     
    Devon Schevers likes this.
  5. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    4.11 gears it is! It's also good to hear I won't have to track down another carb.
     
  6. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    It looks like with the 416 heads I will be right at 9:1. It's going to be open lakester headers, with no secondary system like some roadsters use.
     
    Elcohaulic likes this.
  7. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    I did read to remove the inner spring in dual spring setups, any ideas on what springs I will need? Or somewhere to look?
     
  8. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    That gets me excited! I'm really only down to finding the right valve springs now. I have no clue where to get the right information though
     
  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 34,807

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With a 31 inch tall tire and 4.11 gears you would be running 3118 RPM at 70. 2450 At 55.
    I understand wanting an old school cam but if you are planning on running a solid lifter cam plan to set aside time to adjust the valves and clean up the engine on a regular basis. Maybe it was just because my 097 was pretty well worn in my T but that thing was a pain in the but to keep the valves adjusted on.

    Speed rpm calculator here Tire Size, RPM, Speed, and Differential Ratio Calculator (advanced-ev.com)
    Just don't run the mufflers down the side of the body on your T as I did with the megaphone headers (they weren't called lakes headers then) in the early 70's with my then obsolete 5.00 set of headers.
    [​IMG]
    283 with Duntov cam.
     
  10. Stock springs run about 75-80 lbs of pressure.If you have a old set from a 100,000 mile engine clean them up,and use them since they will be lighter yet.Some machine shops can check spring pressure so you know what your working with. The cam grinder can recommend springs for their cam for post break in use.
     
  11. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    A rep from Elgin got back to me so I'm going to be using their 097 clone and their recommended springs. I don't have the springs the engine came with unfortunately, but I do have the stock 305 springs from the rebuild kit, you reckon using the outer spring on those would suffice?
     
  12. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers


    I've heard that about the solid lifter cams, but I'm going to do all I can to keep my lash set and if it does become too much of a hassle I will deal with it then.

    As for the headers, like I said I don't plan on running any exhaust off of them. I will likely add some sort of tip to redirect the exhaust from my face and possibly a baffle if it is too obnoxious.
     
  13. Packrat
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Posts: 604

    Packrat
    Member

    I agree with DDDenny, I ran an 1850 on a 283 in my '57, it ran great!
     
    Devon Schevers likes this.
  14. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    I love the sound of it, I daydream about riding around listening to the idle all the time. I'll have to read more about him, I didn't realize he was this popular.
     
    Elcohaulic likes this.
  15. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 15,937

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you check an old Motors Manual seat spring pressure for a 283-270 hp was 69#. They were able to rev to 6000 for sure. You don’t need a lot and lighter springs are easier on your complete valve train on oil. #7 at the bottom of the page in the notes is a 270hp
    6189C359-F6EE-4453-99A5-9C5863C9D64A.jpeg
     
    irishsteve likes this.
  16. Good bit of information. I think most guys would have more luck breaking in a cam if they stayed with a really light spring.Its all to easy to buy in to the Cam company sales pitch about 115 lb springs,or switching to LS springs on Vortex heads to gain lift. Get some miles on the new engine then hot rod it.
     
  17. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    The rep at Elgin suggested rv-943x springs. They have a much higher pressure at 110# closed
     
  18. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 15,937

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do what ever you want. My including the Motors Manual info was to show factory specs and since this a “Duntov” cam or at minimum what he designed including the valve train it’s tough not to follow the stock or his recommendation.
    I ran double springs on all my racing GMC’s at 130# on a Howard flat tappet for years until I found this information. I took out the inners and never went over 90# again. My engines rarely see over 6000 rpm. Sounds like a 270 hp 283 to me.
     
    Elcohaulic likes this.
  19. Devon Schevers
    Joined: Mar 12, 2018
    Posts: 32

    Devon Schevers

    Do you get noticeably less wear with the lighter spring pressure? The rep said the springs he recommended are stock z28 springs and match that cam, I already ordered them so I guess I'll just wait and see how it goes
     
  20. Its all about cam"s,and lifters made over seas out of metal that may,or may not be heat treated like it was in 1968. Throw in modern oil that is low in Zinc,and its a recipe for a ruined engine.It wont wear over many miles due to high spring pressure......it will all come a part in the first 20 minutes.Cam lobe,and lifter grind each other until theres no lobe.All that metal goes in the oil,and gets pumped through your bearings,and rings.Now your brand new engine is shot.Bust out your wallet for another. Installing a cam went from a 16 year olds first easy hot rod project to cross your fingers black magic using every trick you know. Low pressure springs,and 1.3 ratio rocker arms are tools to get that engine past its first 20 minutes.Once you get a sense that the patient is going to live you can go back,and add the performance parts.A cruise through Utube under cam lobe failure will be enlightening...if not frightening.
     

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