Hi all, finally getting back on the t bucket build my dad and I started a couple of years back. We have pretty much everything figured out except for how I want to build the engine. The current specs are as follows: 1958 283 .030 305 #416 heads Stock 305/283 internals (except with .030 pistons obviously) Lakes headers Stock 2004r Ford 9" Rear tires will be around 31" tall Firestone 750-16 bias ply Now for my questions 1. If I run, say, the lunati clone of the 097 (30121009) what springs do I need to run? I reached out to lunati with no luck, and can't find any information anywhere 2. What gearing should I run in the rear end with these parts for good performance, I will be driving it basically everyday, but won't be doing too much highway driving 3. I have a Holley 1850-3 600cfm vaccum secondary, will that be too much/not enough for my engine? I know only the basics of engine building, and have forgotten all I learned when I first started the project, so any extra knowledge would be super helpful and greatly appreciated.
I'll leave the valve spring choice to the experts but with those tall tires I think 4.11 gears will be fun in that car and that 283 will love it too. I had a bone stock (and tired) 283 with a Holley 1850 on it and it ran great. Edit Oh yeah, I forgot, the 283 loooved 4.11's.
Use low pressure valve springs for your break in.After you have a few miles on it change them to what the cam really calls for.You want to give that flat tappet cam/lifter combo every chance of surviving break in.Make sure the lifters spin freely in their bores too.
A low 4-point something gear sounds good. With the 0.7 4th gear of that trans and the tall tire you’ll be at about 1800 rpm at 65-70 and the 3.06? first gear will be a lot of fun. I have a similar setup. John
It looks like with the 416 heads I will be right at 9:1. It's going to be open lakester headers, with no secondary system like some roadsters use.
I did read to remove the inner spring in dual spring setups, any ideas on what springs I will need? Or somewhere to look?
That gets me excited! I'm really only down to finding the right valve springs now. I have no clue where to get the right information though
With a 31 inch tall tire and 4.11 gears you would be running 3118 RPM at 70. 2450 At 55. I understand wanting an old school cam but if you are planning on running a solid lifter cam plan to set aside time to adjust the valves and clean up the engine on a regular basis. Maybe it was just because my 097 was pretty well worn in my T but that thing was a pain in the but to keep the valves adjusted on. Speed rpm calculator here Tire Size, RPM, Speed, and Differential Ratio Calculator (advanced-ev.com) Just don't run the mufflers down the side of the body on your T as I did with the megaphone headers (they weren't called lakes headers then) in the early 70's with my then obsolete 5.00 set of headers. 283 with Duntov cam.
Stock springs run about 75-80 lbs of pressure.If you have a old set from a 100,000 mile engine clean them up,and use them since they will be lighter yet.Some machine shops can check spring pressure so you know what your working with. The cam grinder can recommend springs for their cam for post break in use.
A rep from Elgin got back to me so I'm going to be using their 097 clone and their recommended springs. I don't have the springs the engine came with unfortunately, but I do have the stock 305 springs from the rebuild kit, you reckon using the outer spring on those would suffice?
I've heard that about the solid lifter cams, but I'm going to do all I can to keep my lash set and if it does become too much of a hassle I will deal with it then. As for the headers, like I said I don't plan on running any exhaust off of them. I will likely add some sort of tip to redirect the exhaust from my face and possibly a baffle if it is too obnoxious.
I love the sound of it, I daydream about riding around listening to the idle all the time. I'll have to read more about him, I didn't realize he was this popular.
If you check an old Motors Manual seat spring pressure for a 283-270 hp was 69#. They were able to rev to 6000 for sure. You don’t need a lot and lighter springs are easier on your complete valve train on oil. #7 at the bottom of the page in the notes is a 270hp
Good bit of information. I think most guys would have more luck breaking in a cam if they stayed with a really light spring.Its all to easy to buy in to the Cam company sales pitch about 115 lb springs,or switching to LS springs on Vortex heads to gain lift. Get some miles on the new engine then hot rod it.
Do what ever you want. My including the Motors Manual info was to show factory specs and since this a “Duntov” cam or at minimum what he designed including the valve train it’s tough not to follow the stock or his recommendation. I ran double springs on all my racing GMC’s at 130# on a Howard flat tappet for years until I found this information. I took out the inners and never went over 90# again. My engines rarely see over 6000 rpm. Sounds like a 270 hp 283 to me.
Do you get noticeably less wear with the lighter spring pressure? The rep said the springs he recommended are stock z28 springs and match that cam, I already ordered them so I guess I'll just wait and see how it goes
Its all about cam"s,and lifters made over seas out of metal that may,or may not be heat treated like it was in 1968. Throw in modern oil that is low in Zinc,and its a recipe for a ruined engine.It wont wear over many miles due to high spring pressure......it will all come a part in the first 20 minutes.Cam lobe,and lifter grind each other until theres no lobe.All that metal goes in the oil,and gets pumped through your bearings,and rings.Now your brand new engine is shot.Bust out your wallet for another. Installing a cam went from a 16 year olds first easy hot rod project to cross your fingers black magic using every trick you know. Low pressure springs,and 1.3 ratio rocker arms are tools to get that engine past its first 20 minutes.Once you get a sense that the patient is going to live you can go back,and add the performance parts.A cruise through Utube under cam lobe failure will be enlightening...if not frightening.