Technical how to you get an engine to look like this????

I went with FORD truck gray on mine to be different. FORD blue is great, but I didn't think it would fit in with my car. They used the gray on 80's pickups and vans.

But I didn't do any sanding, only cleaning. Can't see much of it anyway under the hood.

 

Wow, I was just happy to have it clean. Now this gives me a new goal to try to reach.

 

And let's not forget the weight savings giving a "big" performance advantage.

 

My buddy Dan at Hill Country Performance built this HEMI. And yes that is a cast iron block.

 

/\ /\ /\ "WHI-WHEW!!!"

That's the best I can wolf whistle with text.

 

@louisb did your buddy leave the engine bare? Some kind of clear maybe?

 

That's very nice Gary, and surely better than black; but just my opinion but a gloss, metallic color pops more than that.

 

I had the same reaction, LOL!

 

WHOA! There is the winner. Thread over!

 

Elbow grease...

 

I honestly don't know. I will ask next time I talk to him.

 

Wow, I am an amateur.

 

Imagine doing all that and then sending a 'rod out the side of the block when peddling it hard.

 

That's how I like to start my own projects, just a clump of grungy old chit.

 

You guys have some very nicely detailed engines. I have been known to get the sandblaster out to make sure I have a great surface to work with I just go over the sharp edges and casting flash. Then epoxy and color...

 

After the machine shop and degreasing:


color optional

Sorry fellows, but I do not think this excessive embellishing is "traditional"...more of a billet, Coddinton, flashy street rod touch.

 

A thankless PITA job and dirty. I sanded the casting flash etc off (Not engine #), linished the block and radiused the corners before a light coat of 2-pak etch primer etc before 2-pak colour and clear. I didn't use etch primer on my other SBC and after 15yrs of driving it's starting to de-laminate in a couple of places. P.S. When the transmission was rebuilt I changed the extension housing (C4 Corvette) and output shaft as there's no provision for transmission mount on case as Corvette used a 'C' beam mated to IRS. You'll never see any of this when in car, just me being pedantic.

 

If you want to paint it black, paint it black. Nothing looks better with Chrome than black.
When prepping a block for paint, clean, clean, and clean again. Any quality automotive paint will work the best as shown in the pics above.

 

Blackie, Norm, Tommy, George
and a whole bunch of others would probably disagree.
There have always been various levels of hot rodding. A high level of finish doesn't at all necessarily indicate a modern build.

 

I agree. The guy that taught me about polishing was my dad, who was right in the thick of the hot rodding/ drag racing scene. He was the first one to polish the 462 casting pictures above. He ran his C/Gas car from 59-68.

 

Yeah, you're totally right. Flashy paint and excessive embellishing with chromed and polished engine parts is only a street rod thing and completely not traditional.

 

Nothing? I realize this is subjective, and personal preference, but.....

Just from this thread, I could dig up plenty of others. Go ahead, prove me wrong.

 

Like you said it's all personal preference. I just hope these guys don't color coordinate their toe nail polish to their handbags.

 

If you sand it correctly, only epoxy then paint is needed.

 

I would just parking in my living room and stare at it.

 

I paint all my engines black (hides the runs and oil stains) but I certainly like the looks of a well detailed engine. The time and energy that some invest into detailing an engine is amazing. My take is its your ride so do whatever works for you. As far as traditional goes, attention to detail has always been traditional, but that's JMO.

 

100+ posts, and no one has brought up the 'old school' way of engine painting...

Back before candy, metalflake, and everything in spray cans, the method used by many was to brush-paint the assembled cast parts with a quality oil-based enamel, generally a couple of coats. Your local paint store could mix the color you wanted, the thicker paint film and self-leveling over spraying filled the cast surface reducing or eliminating a bunch of sanding, and if you took the time to properly 'cure' it was pretty durable too. A bit of oil and/or dirt contamination could be 'brushed' into the paint (oil-based paint can tolerate this), and touch-up is easy. If you have a running engine that you don't want to disassemble, this method works very well.

This is how I still paint air-cooled motorcycle cylinders. Just try and get spray paint between the cooling fins, brushing does the job. The paint holds up very well in use, I've never had to do more than minor touch up for rock chips.

Bill Hirsch who sells 'correct' engine paint for early cars sells it in quart cans and recommends brushing it on castings...

 

I just Painted the engine and transmission with the same Single Stage Acrylic Urethane in Washington blue.
Then the appropriate use of chrome , polished aluminum and ceramic coating.
Along with details to keep everything clean and tidy.

Not that difficult and I felt it was appropriate for the Tim Mcmaster Y block for my 26 RPU.

 

Sarcasm?